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Aftermarket end can

4K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  Rigger 
#1 ·
I'm in the market for an aftermarket end can, Akrapovic is an obvious choice, but I'd like to know your thoughts on other brands. I believe the Akro offers no performance increase, so I might consider another make if they look/sound good and have a performance boost, I'm also considering an air filter change at which point I figure a re-map would be necessary.


Also I believe there is a butterfly valve in the exhaust, can somebody please tell me what this is for and if I really need it or not. Cheers.
 
#2 ·
Can't advise on the butterfly valve really but I have a sc project exhaust. Sounds lovely, nice and deep,. It barks into life but when just pottering around not offensive at all, sounds awesome when you open the throttle. Comes with a removable baffle which I've taken.out, I do wear ear plugs plugs when I ride and always have no matter what exhaust.
 

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#3 ·
Butterfly valve I'm told was just for sound regulation, I have a Full Remus system (Cat Delete Header, butterfly removed and slip on)

You won't feel much if any performance gains unless you also slap a Power Commander or Rapid Bike on it, taken from another of my threads

"Here's my seat of pants and instrumentation observations
Quick Shifter is no longer twitchy or jumpy when using it 1->2 or 2->3
The bike, holy god I thought she was quick before and I had torque before but mother of christ, Grabbing a fist full of throttle in 1st 2nd or 3rd you can feel that front end wanting to come up but being denied via the TCS
I think the reason for this is the Rapid bike now allowing 100% Throttle openning everywhere, but I could be wrong
Engine feels like it's spinning up faster on top of the flat even torque curve
I've noticed a slight dip in MPG when riding spirited, a Drop from 39 to 35 MPG kicking her in the guts
On the other end though riding normally and through town I've noticed an Increase in MPG, today cruising in town I was seeing 65-70MPG at 55MPH, I thought my bike's fuel gauge was busted and the GPS Unit was as well seeing as my range went from 185 when I left the house to 190, but it finally started coming back down and I used a 1/4 of a tank.
Bike doesn't pop nearly as much as it used to"



https://www.youtube.com/my_videos?o=U
 
#4 ·
Consensus seems to be that the exhaust flapper valve is simply for noise emissions as noted above. I've disconnected the cables and made a small guide from a piece of aluminium to ensure they don't snag. It now burbles more on over-run and has a more consistent sound level.

Air filter 'upgrade' will only make a difference for running at full throttle/high revs, and there are those that argue a higher flow filter will allow more particles through, allowing greater bore/piston wear. My view for street riding is the 'gains' to be made aren't really worth the risk.

Re the pipe, I think the SC Project and Remus are far better looking than the Akro; sound is subjective, and there's a strong performance recommendation above for the SC Project (when combined with Rapid Bike or PC).

For me, just the de-flap was enough - I run stock can and air filter, and it songs along quite nicely thanks.
 
#5 ·
I also run the SC Project but with stock headers and air filter. Did not notice any particular power change but it sounds way better and saves several Kg. Also looks much better IMO.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the response guys, I must admit i agree the Remus and SC look nicer than the Akro, which looks kind of meh :\ I do like Akros though. But on this occasion I think I need to turn to the darkside :p. Remus and SC look like great options..... hmm the agony of choice :)
 
#8 · (Edited)
Quesever, the cables run from the flapper valve controller just behind and inboard of the RH cylinder through to the flapper valve, to which the can attaches.

The controller needs to stay in place to avoid triggering error codes. The easiest way to detach the cables is at the flapper valve itself. I suppose you could disassemble the controller, but that would involve unnecessary complication in my opinion.

The flapper valve default is fully open, although I bent the stop tang a little to ensure mine was exactly aligned.

I also added a small guide to ensure the cables didn't snag and cause a calibration error (the controller goes through calibration at start-up) and also reduce the sound of the cable ends running back and forth.

EDIT: If the cables are disconnected from the valve, there is risk that internal stops will eventually break when the controller goes through its calibration routine, ruining the controller. The appropriate solution is to remove the controller and cables and fit a Servo Buddy or similar.
 

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