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Bar risers and Bar Backs for 2015 r1200r?

26K views 70 replies 35 participants last post by  Panzermann 
#1 ·
Anyone know who if anyone, is making Bar Risers or Bar Backs or even better a combination of both?

Jack
 
#6 ·
These are a universal fitting so if the hole centres of the original brackets are between 37 - 46mm then these will fit. Measure the original bar mounts to confirm if they will fit R1200R LC.
Our durable aluminum

barbacks offer a height change of 30 or 31
millimeters and shift the handlebar 22
millimeters closer to the driver. This can mean

a more relaxed and back-friendly seating
position and reduced strain on the arms, re-
sulting in better vehicle control.
FEATURES
> Moves bar position up 30/31 mm and
back 22 mm
> Hole spacing: 32-38 mm (ø 22 mm) or
37-46 mm (ø 28 mm)
> Powder coated, black or silver
> Material: High strength aluminum alloy
 
#7 ·
Hi All, and thank you in advance for your help.

I'm buying a 2017 R1200R and would like to add a Rox 2" pivoting riser for the handlebars.

Can you tell me:
1) The handlebar diameter of this bike?
2) If you have added this SPECIFIC riser to this SPECIFIC bike (or 2015, or 2016)?
3) Did you need to change any cable to accommodate the new risers?

Any replies for this specific combination of year/ bike model / riser is appreciated (not the RS, not a 2014, etc).

Best,
Gary
 
#12 ·
I have looked at many different risers, all have positive and not so positive. The HeilBar units show the GPS mounted without any problems.

So, has anyone used the HeilBar mounts?

I read there is a YouTube Video about the clutch rerouting, which I can not find, has anyone seen it?

I am just looking for advice, on the HeilBar units.

Thanks to all in advance.

James
 
#13 ·
James,

I just installed the Helibars on my '17 R1200R and have GPS mount. No issues at all with everything bolting right up. Don't let the clutch cable relocation bother you as it was very simple to do. Just remove the rubber secure straps along the cable down towards the engine area and unscrew the 13mm nut with an open-end wrench. Just don't touch the clutch lever while the cable is off (no real dripping either). Pull the cable under the bar area to the other side of the fork tube and screw back in. Tap the clutch lever a few dozen times to get the pressure back. Reattach the rubber straps to the cables and enjoy.
 
#15 · (Edited)
While the Helibars are nice, the suggested clutch reroute is kind of weak. Helibars suggestion is to run the clutch line between the tank and the triple tree which leaves a lot of clutch line flopping around, not to mention a serious amount of bend and pressure as it's a sharp angle from the master cylinder to tuck the line under the handlebar. The factory placement brings the line forward to the front of the frame and then vertically fed up through the triple tree. I removed the tanks panels and side panels, then rerouted the line from back about the mid area of the bike and along the rail of the frame which runs up towards the triple tree on about a 45 degree angle. I then fed it under the triple tree and to the clutch master cylinder as the factory does. This following at an angle instead of the forward and then vertical right-angle placement provides just the right amount of slack in the line for a very easy attachment to the master cylinder with just the right amount of play for no stress.

Note: Wrap a cloth around the fitting as you pull it from the master cylinder to keep the inner o-ring from getting away from you. That tiny o-ring will fly out with a snap and it will be **** hunting that little sucker down. Believe in my personal experience on that one.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Well I didn't take pictures but here's a picture giving you a general idea of the clutch line routing. The green line indicates the normal path of the clutch line where the yellow indicates my reroute. The shortcut provides enough slack to accommodate the risers easily. Of course, I had to undo the ties and fish the line back through the frame and then feed it up along the angled frame rail, securing it with ties in what I reasoned were suitable locations. Since you'll be wiggling the line around you'll want to tape up the end so no fluid drips out before you start fishing back and forth. I took a couple pics just now the best I could without pulling off the tank cover panels.
 

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#20 ·
nice post! it always worries me, the cable or hydraulic line that moves with the bars. On the older jap bikes the paint would be worn from the steering head by chaffing cables. The cables themselves would wear off the plastic outer then start rusting and seizing up. Sometimes it was better to have any cable ties a bit loose so it all moved easier
 
#22 ·
I did the HeliBars relocate and there was a sharp bend in the line to get it under the handlebar and it left a big loop of line that flexed and rubbed against the front of the tank and painted frame. I think HeliBars came up with a relocate that was simple and effective but not ideal. My relocate was more involved for sure but in the end it uses all that's available of the line with just enough slack.
 
#23 ·
I just completed the HeliBars installation. I relocated the clutch line from the original position to follow the upper down tube. It took some time to move things around. I think it was worth it to follow the upper down tube. But it was not real easy. I love the new bar position. Much more relaxed for me. If anyone would like to talk me before doing this job, contact me.

A special thanks to all that helped me.
 
#24 ·
I'd like to say thanks to 702 Boxer for the pics and detail, I installed a set of helibars on the weekend and I wasn't happy with the tightness of the clutch cable so I followed your diagrams and rerouted the cables up higher and I'm very happy with the result. I did have one issue with a cable tie buried high up under the panels and stuck behind the radiator that took a fair bit of time and knuckle busting to get it off without damaging the electrical wire cable tied with the clutch cable. I had one small oil leak when I moved the handle bars trying to get better access trying to get to the hidden cable tie. This caused some grief when everything was back together and there was no pressure in the clutch lever, not being overly mechanically minded I was a bit concerned but a few dozen flicks of the clutch lever put some pressure back in the line. I have done about 150km over two days and very happy with the change in position, with a few more minor adjustments on the handle bar and mirror positions I will be ready to buy the next improvement, another screen most likely the Z2354 V stream
 
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#26 ·
My experience with changing bar angles has never been great, as I felt it comprised the suspension up front.

I leave my bike as the standard bars, sure you can get away with a small few millimeters here and there when adjusting angles.

I’d buy a bike it’s position suited me from the get go IMHO.
 
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