Twisted Throttle advised me that their Denali SoundBlaster will not fit on a '15-16 R12R LC. None of the BMW mounting brackets they sell will work on the naked RLC.
Yes, I ordered from Hornig in Germany and installed. Easy installation, except for access to connector at old OEM horn behind headlight. That took a while. Youtube Hornig video not much help in that respect. Horn is amply loud and much better than the chicken scratch OEM. But I seem to have a connection fault; the horn does its thing when I use it once, but then goes into remission and doesn't work correctly. Maybe an ampage issue I'm not sure...I contacted Hornig but they said they've sold many of these without reports of problems. So could just be me. But I would recommend it if you want to be heard and not just seen.
Have you looked at the denali Split soundbomb, as the name suggests it's split, as in the compressor & horn are seperated, making it easier to fit on bikes with limit room.
Actually I did email to TwistedThrottle a while back asking about the regular (not split) Denali SoundBomb, and they advised me that none of their BMW mounts would work on an R12R. What interested me about the Hornig is that they claim is really does fit the new R12RLC.
You are right in that this is probably an amperage problem - used to get the same issue on my GSA and it needed a separate relay to the horn as it was shutting down the CANBUS system on the horn when used (got it once, then had to power cycle the bike for it to work again which resets the can bus system).
Still have issue with magnum Wolo horn...see above. Works, but only intermittently, like it's running out of juice. Had to use it on a van today...and it's plenty loud, just not for more than a micro-second, before it goes into sporadic mode. What kind of relay should I try to sort this issue? Anyone?
Motoprof, if your setup doesn't have a relay, it is highly likely to be the horn is drawing too much current and the CANBUS is shutting the circuit down. I actually jagged onto this to my advantage after fitting a second BMW horn (graciously donated by Lawrence of Suburbia) which I simply wired in parallel to the existing horn. Seemed OK when I tested it, but now it beeps on/off at about once every second per cycle, which sounds quite alarming to those who hear it!
A 12V micro relay would do the job, using the horn lead to trigger the relay and taking the main supply from the battery (with a fuse near the battery).
Tried the relay; no go. But here's a diagnostic: the horn works perfectly when the ignition is on, but the motor is off. When I turn the motor on, the horn goes intermittent...instead of a nice constant loud braap. Turn the motor off, and the horn works perfectly again. WTF? Anybody? Horn is not much use in ignition mode only!
Panzermann, there are two yellow wires leading to the connections on the horn. Is one of them the earth? How can I test that? I am an electrical ignoramus.
Listen to the man, Motoprof. He knows whereof he speaks, and his planet-sized brain knows something about everything and everything about some things... But I challenge you to the role of champion electrical ignoramus...>
Panzermann, you are my hero. I am going to try this. Right after I go out and buy that multimeter thingie of which you speak. My local supermarket should have one, right?
has anyone taken pictures of what it takes to get to the factory horn so as to get to the wires, before I start ripping things apart.Thanks in advance.James
See below James - I replaced the factory horn with a Stebel Magnum horn back in Feb. It's always the #1 or #2 task on any new bike I get...
In short - access to the OE horn is a nightmare! You'll have to remove the lhs tank cover and side panel which is not as intuitive as some here would have you bleeve! But there was excellent help given to me from some good folks here - see a Thread I started under the 'LC General Discussion' section headed 'removal of lhs tank cover' - 17.02.2017. There's also some very useful guidance and discussion in the 'What have YOU done to your R today' Thread around mid-February...
The OE horn is deeply buried beneath a morass of wires (see pic below) and is almost inaccessible. Extreme patience and dexterity is a must! Do not commence unless you are so equipped! PM me if any other questions on the task and if I can assist I will...
Attached are a couple of pictures indicating where the horn lead is located.
The first is my well used bike, the second is an annotated version of LoS's pristine new Racing Red R.
Thank you for all the WOLO fitting info, I treid it many times to disconnect te fitting on the OEM Horn, no succes....
Than I had to visit my BMW Dealer and asked them to do it, the fitting moved all directions but never came loose, The WOLO Set is
going back to the friendly Hornig company.
I had precisely the same problem, Louis - the location and inaccessibility of the OE horn and its wiring is ridiculous! I ended up cutting the OE wires and splicing in the new wiring to my Stebel horn. I still have to ask - pray what is WOLO?
Thanks PZ. How strange – I thought that being spelled in caps WOLO was another of those useful, if lazy, acrobats we use, such as IIRC, IMHO, YMMV, and so on.
Another bike-dedicated Forum I sometimes infest seems entirely free of these devices! Diff’rent folks and all that.:grin2:
I hate to be the contrarian, but I expect BMW didn't locate the horn to facilitate replacement - after all, 'zey know vot ist best'.
Once the lower LH plastic cover is removed, it's a bit fiddly but accessible. The plug has a tab the holds the socket in place - a long thin screwdriver pushed beneath it will release the tab enabling the socket to be pulled from the horn plug.
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