BMW R1200R Forum banner

21 - 40 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Thanks @ogee for the detail - all good stuff.

Do you have the relevant pinouts for the chassis computer? At least @filterfool could check continuity of the wiring and the integrity of the connectors.
Again, on the 2011, the connections for CAN-bus are:
CAN_HI (white/black)
Cluster pin 1
ZFE pin 17
ECU pin 53
ABS pin 30
Alarm pin 6

CAN_LO (white/brown)
Cluster pin 2
ZFE pin 16
ECU pin 52
ABS pin 15
Alarm pin 5

The mysterious WL-signal that may be the one that turns the cluster ON:
WL (green/white)
Cluster pin 5
ZFE pin 22

If he doesn't want to buy the Haynes manual, the easiest way to check if the pinning is the same for the 2007 is to look at the colour of the wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Another solution is to to borrow or buy a cluster and see if it solves the problem. If you don't have a good friend with an R1200R who's willing to lend you his cluster, you're stuck with buying one. There are some on eBay now and then, but they often cost a few hundred dollars. And I don't know if you can just swap them without having someone program it to your bike. My guess is that you can, but again, I don't know.
Regarding swapping of clusters and whether you would get it to work or not. I meant working well enough to test that the intermittent problem disappears. To get it working 100%, you certainly have to have some programming done. The odometer needs to be set to the correct mileage of your bike and it seems that the correct options need to be coded into the cluster as well. Please beware that BMW garages cannot reduce the mileage of the cluster, only increase it. Reducing the mileage of a cluster seems to be doable, but requires some hacking that BMW won't do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
How about an alternative. See if the cluster works when swapped on a bike with a working one? Sounds like an odd thing, but someone might be hesitant to let you have their cluster lest your bike damages it, but your cluster is unlikely to damage a working bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,567 Posts
How about an alternative. See if the cluster works when swapped on a bike with a working one? Sounds like an odd thing, but someone might be hesitant to let you have their cluster lest your bike damages it, but your cluster is unlikely to damage a working bike.
I for one certainly wouldn't be lending MY cluster to anyone! >:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Have you tryed moving bars from side to side, like your manoeuvring and riding the bike , whilst checking the intermittent on and off of gauges on the Center stand if applicable. Will this change the functionality of gauges . If so it could be the wiring loom in front of the bike and is affected by left right bar movement. Hope you can find the problem .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks but there is no change in the operation going from lock to lock. Same old same old. :frown2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Thanks @ogee for the detail - all good stuff.

Do you have the relevant pinouts for the chassis computer? At least @filterfool could check continuity of the wiring and the integrity of the connectors.
Yes, thanks ogee.

I will try checking the connectors based on the information ogee has supplied.

I have thought of "borrowing" a cluster from another R1200R bike here, but would need a dark, moonless night. :wink2: Seriously, I am checking with my local club members to see if they might be willing to let me swap gauge clusters to check it out.

And thanks to all for their suggestions. Please keep them coming. I will post up my progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,567 Posts
LoS, I think YOUR cluster is too old to be of use in any case. :laugh2:
Bloodey oath, ff! (The mis-speling of bloodey is to get it past the censors!). >:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
How about an alternative. See if the cluster works when swapped on a bike with a working one? Sounds like an odd thing, but someone might be hesitant to let you have their cluster lest your bike damages it, but your cluster is unlikely to damage a working bike.
I agree, this is better than the other way around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Similar Problem with Cluster

Just found this thread. I have the same problem as filterfool, my cluster works fine when its hot, but if its slightly coolish, or even just not hot, then I have to blow hot air or use a space heater on it for at least five minutes to get it to wake up. Can I get some advice on removing the cluster? And, an update on your progress/results with repair or replacement? I no longer have a dealership in Tallahassee, and nearest ones are almost 200 miles in either direction, which really motivates me to fix it myself if possible. (actually, my equation is: Miles+Dollars=Motivation to Self-Repair)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
I just responded in the TECHNICAL section on how to remove the cluster.

I have had no luck in getting the cluster repaired. However, I did find a post in ADV RIDER concerning a similar problem on a F800 cluster that looks identical to ours.

He replaced a capacitor and the cluster was fine. I am trying to get more information from him. Here is the site for the discussion; https://advrider.com/f/threads/f800gs-instrument-cluster.1060506/page-2#post-39375938

Let me know if you have any success & I will do the same.

filterfool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Can you tell me what are the screws that hold down the white plastic piece behind the guage faces? Looks like torx, maybe hex, but either way I don't have either that small so I'll have to buy something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I finally got it totally apart down to the board. Don't see anything obvious. I like the idea of replacing the small capacitor while its apart, and I wonder if the large one on the other side could also be causing my issue. Any ideas?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
212 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
No ideas here. Try the author of the ADV piece. He may know.

BTW, what were the small screws?

Keep us informed.

Thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
R1200R-LC Exclusive, 06/2015, Thunder Grey
Joined
·
4,453 Posts
I finally got it totally apart down to the board. Don't see anything obvious. I like the idea of replacing the small capacitor while its apart, and I wonder if the large one on the other side could also be causing my issue. Any ideas?
If you have it apart, why not replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
If you have it apart, why not replace it.
There is the prospect that if a blanket resolder & a couple of suspect Caps are replaced by an experienced electronics technician, the end result could be better (& cheaper) than a new replacement ... which the latter may otherwise just buy time till the whole process repeats itself.
When I was a very young electrical technician a good mate that was an electronics tech ... shared with me that most failures he dealt with were repaired with a blanket resolder, and that he approached nearly every repair with such. Poor solder joints have been the plague of the industry at times.
 

·
Super Moderator
R1200R-LC Exclusive, 06/2015, Thunder Grey
Joined
·
4,453 Posts
As a rank amateur at electronics, I’ve found the same. In fact, without any real diagnostic capability, running the soldering iron around is about all I can do, unless I spot a component from whence the smoke has escaped, then I replace that.

In fact did you know there’s no such thing as electricity. Such components run on smoke - once the smoke escapes, they’re duds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have a 2007 R1200R with about 30k miles. I am the 3rd owner. I do the oil changes myself but have the dealer perform the annual checkups. I have installed a secondary fuse panel to run my auxiliary lights, Sceens, Powlet plug and I have just installed a BMW Navigator IV unit with the 4-button mount plugged into the OEM provided power connector in the front of the tank.

The bike recently developed a problem with the gauge cluster. Initially, when I first turn the key on, the dials would sweep and the upper portion of the LCD display, time & mileage, would come on immediately. The lower portion of the, gear indicator, fuel & temp gauges, would come on with varying delays from almost instantaneous to up to about a 2 second delay.

Then the clock started not keeping the correct time. Then, the cluster would not come on at all, but the bike would run perfectly. Sometimes, the cluster would come to life as I was riding. But lately, if it is out when I start the bike, it will stay out. But if it comes on when I turn the key, it stays on until I turn the key off again. I would say the cluster is on about 1/4 of the time I ride. The bike runs perfectly with all lights, horn, turn signals, etc. working perfectly.

I had the dealer put the bike on the computer and they said everything checked out, so it must be the cluster going bad. "Ride the bike until the cluster goes out completely and then install a new unit" was their advice.

To me, it seems like there is a loose wire or ground in the leads to the cluster. I am checking out wiring diagrams to see where & how I can trouble shoot the wires & plugs feeding the cluster.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and what was the successful fix, if any? If anyone else has an idea, chime in, please.

Thanks, and have a safe and happy holiday. :laugh2:
It happens to me from time to time-I shut the bike off & toggle the key to power several times if necessary until the gauges zero out & then it’s fine.
 
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Top