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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone advise me on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2007 with the least amount of fuss? I'm thinking 2005-2010 and maybe even to 2013 have the same type unit. I believe the unit is held on by one post with a clip on the end, but how to access the clip to remove it is the issue. I'm guessing that the slot in the plastic on the bottom right of the housing (LCD side) is an access hole for this purpose, but not sure. I want to avoid taking the whole dash/headlight area apart chasing this clip if possible. From what I have read, once the clip is removed the cluster can be pulled straight away and clear. Believe it or not, there are no Youtube videos on this process that I can find.
 

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I have a 2011 and that has a different instrument panel. I think the clips are the same, though. There's three of them and you can remove them using your fingers. Just don't lose them.

You have to remove the cover on the back of the panel in order to access the clips. On the 2011 the cover is fixed with six small screws. I cannot find any signs of screws on the earlier type cover, so my guess is that it is just snapped on. If you don't see any screws you could try to gently pry it off.
 

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From this picture (realoem.com) it seems that there is just one tab holding the cover in place. Check if there's an opening where you could insert a screwdriver and (carefully) bend the tab enough to release the cover.



Here's one of the clips on my instrument panel (2011)
 

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I have a 2007 R1200R and have had the instrument cluster off multiple time to trouble shoot a panel failure; see my other posts.

Here is how I do it.

1) Remove the windshield, if you have one mounted. No need to remove the bracket.
2) Snap off the back cover panel. There are three posts that hold the back panel on. Use hand pressure: it takes a strong pull.
3) Remove the three metal clips on the back of the cluster. Keep the clips in a safe place.
4) Cut the cable tie on the top of the cluster mounting bracket holding the electrical cord.
5) Remove the cluster from the mount.
6) Remove the electrical connector plug by squeezing the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug. it takes some degree of coordination to get both tabs squeezed the right amount at the same time.

I am curious; why are you removing the cluster?

Hope this helps. Ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks! Got removal done, now I'm on to trying to remove the white plastic piece the gauge faces are attached to. Will be troubleshooting the board looking for source of intermittent power problem (the cluster only works when warm, is totally dead when cold, can be awakened from dead in five minutes with hair dryer). If no obvious problems are found, I will probably go ahead and try to replace the capacitor because I saw on ADV forum that this has been done successfully to cure this type cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Filterfool, FYI - I think I found a guy over your way that repairs circuit boards, I think I'm going to have mine gone over by him and have the capacitors replaced. That's all I know to try - bad solder joint or bad capacitor. I'll let you know and post the results. Not sure when I'll get it done, but I really want the thing fixed...
 

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Thanks Samzone.

Who is the guy and what is his number? I'd like try him as well.

I agree, it sucks to ride with no instruments even if you have a BMW Nav (IV, V, VI) to tell you speed, time & miles to empty.

Please keep in touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Samzone.

Who is the guy and what is his number? I'd like try him as well.

I agree, it sucks to ride with no instruments even if you have a BMW Nav (IV, V, VI) to tell you speed, time & miles to empty.

Please keep in touch.
Name is McDowell, he has a professional shop. I'm planning on being there around noon on Friday, Mar. 20th. Says he will do the work while I wait. The work being replace two capacitors, resolder area where power pins connect to the board, and examine for bad solder joints. If this doesn't work I'll be taking another trip to Pensacola to visit the dealership and spend the big $$.
 

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Name is McDowell, he has a professional shop. I'm planning on being there around noon on Friday, Mar. 20th. Says he will do the work while I wait. The work being replace two capacitors, resolder area where power pins connect to the board, and examine for bad solder joints. If this doesn't work I'll be taking another trip to Pensacola to visit the dealership and spend the big $$.
I know the shop; he's about 3 minutes from me. If I don't have to work Friday, I will meet you there. Call me at 850.982.9830 when you get to his shop.

Did you remove the gauage needles and the faces or is he going to do that?

Be sure to tell him there is another customer for the same job. :confused:

Fingers crossed this will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know the shop; he's about 3 minutes from me. If I don't have to work Friday, I will meet you there. Call me at 850.982.9830 when you get to his shop.

Did you remove the gauage needles and the faces or is he going to do that?

Be sure to tell him there is another customer for the same job. :confused:

Fingers crossed this will work.
I did take the whole thing apart myself, very carefully. I have not removed the LCD from the board, McDowell can do that if he thinks necessary. I used the two spoons method to remove the needles. The only hitch was that the tach needle did not come off of its shaft, the shaft (which is needle thin) came out of its nest (the thing that moves the tach needle). So now, I'm hoping two things, that the circuit board electronics work, and that the tach still works when I get it together.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did take the whole thing apart myself, very carefully. I have not removed the LCD from the board, McDowell can do that if he thinks necessary. I used the two spoons method to remove the needles. The only hitch was that the tach needle did not come off of its shaft, the shaft (which is needle thin) came out of its nest (the thing that moves the tach needle). So now, I'm hoping two things, that the circuit board electronics work, and that the tach still works when I get it together.
Will call, Planning to get there before noon if possible.
 

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Update: I did obtain a successful repair of the board, both capacitors and other parts were replaced or resoldered. However, my tach is dead due to the stepper motor that drives the needle being damaged upon removal of the needles and faces. The needle is supposed to pull off the shaft, however, what actually happened is the needle held on to the shaft and pulled the shaft out of the motor. Now, when I put the unit back together everything works but that - the tach needle just twitches as I rev the engine up.

I'll attach a photo of the stepper motor, which I believe needs to be replaced. Replacement appears to be four pins that are soldered. Does anyone know a source for these? I'll post a photo. The markings indicate X15 288, and 072>38.6. I can find a lot of these type motors available but none with these markings. Maybe a part number has been superseded or something, or it is interchangeable with another part. Appreciate any advice...
IMG_1294.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the info. The shaft does push down tight in the hole, and at one point the tach needle performed its normal initialization routine upon turning on the ignition, however, it has failed to perform properly since. No loose parts sounds or anything unusual. These little motors apparently come apart and can be repaired sometimes, but I can't see how to take the cover off. I'd love to be able to repair the existing one and then maybe keep a few others in reserve since they are cheap. BTW, I'm also going to try and get some for the speedo also, just in case it fails in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update on stepper motor replacement: I ordered one from China on Ebay, but they replied that they cannot fill the order and refunded my money. The next option is Minitools in Italy (website). The part number I'm referring to is X27 288, the brand is either Junken or Switec, not sure which or if it matters. This part # supersedes the original X15 288. These are the only sources for this particular motor # I can find. I have made a lot of inquiries in the US but no luck.
 
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