I think I'll take them both apart and see what differs and go from there, non ESA bikes are very rare here, I can't remember ever seeing one actually, so finding a used pair would probably be next to impossible. I think I need to look at the parts diagram and try to understand what differs and what parts I'll be needing.
2016 R1200R ESA fork, what happens if ESA fails or plug is disconnected?
Anybody here knows what happens to an ESA fork leg if ESA fails or the plug is disconnected? What state would the fork be in? How would the bike behave?
I know that only the left leg is active so the right one would not be affected.
I have some trouble connecting my R1200R ESA fork to the K1600 ESA controller
They are quite different it seems, R1200R has two wires and K1600 has four, even though there is no preload adjustment up front on the K1600.
I know that only the left leg is active so the right one would not be affected.
I have some trouble connecting my R1200R ESA fork to the K1600 ESA controller
They are quite different it seems, R1200R has two wires and K1600 has four, even though there is no preload adjustment up front on the K1600.41 - 44 of 44 Posts
So, a quick update on the fork issue, I have found that the ESA forks are Sachs units, and non ESA are Marzocchi's, so no parts are interchangeable obviously.
Given that I put some more effort in trying to find out how the ESA fork is controlled. After some digging I managed to find that you can feed 0-6 volts to the fork, the resistance is 2 ohm so that gives 0-3 amperes, where 0 amps is fully stiff and 3 amps is fully soft. I think the hardest setting the bike will set is about 1 amps. I didn't do a very scientific test, but just sitting on the bike rocking it while varying the voltage felt like it's not very linear, it's a pretty narrow window where you get usable dampening. I think in practical use I need to be able to control the voltage between 2 and 5 volts, so between 1 and 2.5 amps.
Initially I could just put a fixed voltage of say 3 volts and leave it like that. As a second step I could look into some way of adjusting it.
I also sorted a complete K1600 front ESA suspension unit, and removed the stepping motor that adjusts the dampening. The plan is to connect it to the bike to trick it into thinking that the front unit is present and not throw a fault code.
Given that I put some more effort in trying to find out how the ESA fork is controlled. After some digging I managed to find that you can feed 0-6 volts to the fork, the resistance is 2 ohm so that gives 0-3 amperes, where 0 amps is fully stiff and 3 amps is fully soft. I think the hardest setting the bike will set is about 1 amps. I didn't do a very scientific test, but just sitting on the bike rocking it while varying the voltage felt like it's not very linear, it's a pretty narrow window where you get usable dampening. I think in practical use I need to be able to control the voltage between 2 and 5 volts, so between 1 and 2.5 amps.
Initially I could just put a fixed voltage of say 3 volts and leave it like that. As a second step I could look into some way of adjusting it.
I also sorted a complete K1600 front ESA suspension unit, and removed the stepping motor that adjusts the dampening. The plan is to connect it to the bike to trick it into thinking that the front unit is present and not throw a fault code.
41 - 44 of 44 Posts
