Air Filter/Box
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Interesting idea... I have purchased a K&N filter for mine and intend to install it at the 6k service... would be interested in answers to this post as well since i'm not clear on how to get at it from the Haynes manual I have (only covers through 2009)
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If the Haynes manual is indicative, the tank doesn't need to come off. just a side trim panel and the snorkel...
bob
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Please post pictures if you can since I was not successful finding any info on the web.
I'm interested on getting a K&N filter, both, air and oil.
Please do a review about noise, power.........changes you find after the service and filter change.
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803 Posts
K&N
Interesting discussion of oil filters here... Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters
This guy's not big on K&N, but I disagree. Lots of interesting info, anyway. He basically thinks all filters are crap.
this guy even breaks down a BMW OEM filter: OIL FILTERS EXPOSED! - Introduction and recommends K&N among others based on quality of construction.
Hey, Hoshiko... I've always used K&N on all of my bikes and my son's bikes. I've never noticed any difference in power or sound from just the air filter change, but I've never considered modifying my airbox or intake system, either. I Put a K&N oil filter on the 1200R at about 1k miles.
Interesting discussion of oil filters here... Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters
This guy's not big on K&N, but I disagree. Lots of interesting info, anyway. He basically thinks all filters are crap.
this guy even breaks down a BMW OEM filter: OIL FILTERS EXPOSED! - Introduction and recommends K&N among others based on quality of construction.
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359 Posts
yonderbob you are correct it is extremely easy to get to.
After removing the trim panels the snorkel is just hanging out. There are two clips on the snorkel that hold it to the air box. Just slide them out and be ready to apply some force to pop the end out of it rubber retainer nonsense contraption.
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From there you just slide it off and there's the air filter.
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My ideas are to cut the filter out of it's rubber surround to retain the seal, cut off the snorkel and fab up an aluminum intake tube and stick a cone filter on the end... I'm going to look at maybe uni, k & n, AEM, ?? any suggestions for dry or oil cone filters???
I want to open the intake up and hopefully it will make the exhaust tone more unique. I'm not going to do much more with this till I'm done with the exhaust.
After removing the trim panels the snorkel is just hanging out. There are two clips on the snorkel that hold it to the air box. Just slide them out and be ready to apply some force to pop the end out of it rubber retainer nonsense contraption.
From there you just slide it off and there's the air filter.
My ideas are to cut the filter out of it's rubber surround to retain the seal, cut off the snorkel and fab up an aluminum intake tube and stick a cone filter on the end... I'm going to look at maybe uni, k & n, AEM, ?? any suggestions for dry or oil cone filters???
I want to open the intake up and hopefully it will make the exhaust tone more unique. I'm not going to do much more with this till I'm done with the exhaust.
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73 Posts
Airbox removal
The previous owner of my bike had a little more radical idea for the airbox – remove it!
And, I can only assume that he was forced to destroy it in the process (the service manual calls for the removal of the whole driveline in order to replace the airbox). This was the only original article he didn't provide me when I bought the bike – he said he threw it away (recycled it).
After removing the airbox, he fitted two K&N filters directly to the the fuel injector intakes.
He also created a new battery holder and fastened it to a plate he made and attached to the top of the frame.
He also installed an open Arrow exhaust (i.e., no oxygen sensors or catalytic converter).
Also note the PowerCommander on the side of the battery. I haven't started to play with any curves yet, but I will probably have to put it on a dyno to get it dialed in correctly.
All in all he did a really clean and professional job.
The only regret I have is that I can never take it back to stock, without some serious cost and time.
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The previous owner of my bike had a little more radical idea for the airbox – remove it!
And, I can only assume that he was forced to destroy it in the process (the service manual calls for the removal of the whole driveline in order to replace the airbox). This was the only original article he didn't provide me when I bought the bike – he said he threw it away (recycled it).
After removing the airbox, he fitted two K&N filters directly to the the fuel injector intakes.
He also created a new battery holder and fastened it to a plate he made and attached to the top of the frame.
He also installed an open Arrow exhaust (i.e., no oxygen sensors or catalytic converter).
Also note the PowerCommander on the side of the battery. I haven't started to play with any curves yet, but I will probably have to put it on a dyno to get it dialed in correctly.
All in all he did a really clean and professional job.
The only regret I have is that I can never take it back to stock, without some serious cost and time.
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Have you ridden a stock r1200r, I wonder how it compares to what the previous owner did to yours.
I guess you have to look at it as a improvement.
I changed the suspension in mine, this is a improvement.
I would never put it back to stock unless I was crazy..oh hang on!, or to trade it in for another r1200r, then I would take the suspension off the old to put into the new R.
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73 Posts
I rode a stock R1200R a couple of months ago, and an RnineT a couple of weeks ago, difficult to say whether the removal of the airbox improved anything. I'll have to see what can be done with the mapping using the PC3. Despite surging of the older R1100s, I still believe BMW knows what they're doing with fuel systems.
However, what they don't know is suspension. Upgrading mine is the next thing on the list, after a rear hugger and a fly screen.
How do you like your Yacugar shocks?
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117 Posts
Check out the dyno in this thread:
BMW R nineT R1250R R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T Message Board • View topic - Removing air box?
:nicetopic:
...and here's how to remove the snorkel tab thingies:
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73 Posts
Thanks for that link, Klaus. I've been looking for a used OEM airbox just in case I want to go back to the stock setup. They're tough to find, because their removal requires dismantling of the subframe.
However, since I believe the seal between my motor and transmission is leaking, I will have the perfect opportunity to reinstall the OEM airbox.
The real problem with straight filters is driving in the rain. I don't have covers! Maybe a pair of socks will do
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Love them, though I could have loved something cheaper like just changing out the spring for better ones like '"Hawsker?" did, I think used a hyper pro spring. Though, my reasoning was, if I was going to fix it I was going to fix it good, and leave no room for doubt.
I had them sent to NZ from Ted Porters Beemer shop, he was also offering 'wilbers' at the same price, to be honest and it sounds silly it came down to color….understated black.
So the shocks dealt to the harshness, its not until you see a video of them working that you realize how much work they do out on the road, looks such a smooth action, the tyre feels very planted, especially going around corners.
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1,242 Posts
Hi @jeverett486
Would you update us on how is your bike doing?
I'm interested on doing a similar air filter conversion, what happened with the snorkel?? Would you share some pictures from all angles?
Thanks
Would you update us on how is your bike doing?
I'm interested on doing a similar air filter conversion, what happened with the snorkel?? Would you share some pictures from all angles?
Thanks
I read an study a couple of months ago about reusable air filters vs replaceable paper filters. The study would not entice you to switch to any replaceable filter, not even K&N. As someone who has used K&N filters for many years in cars, truck and motorcycles, I don't plan to do so ever again.
The increase in HP that a reusable air filter provided was negligible, if not nonexistent. The amount of particulate matter that reusable air filters let pass, that replaceable filters caught, was troubling.
Do I think that a K&N filter will damage your motorcycle engine, I don't know, probably not. If you lived in an area that was really dusty, it could be a contributing factor to greater engine wear.
The increase in HP that a reusable air filter provided was negligible, if not nonexistent. The amount of particulate matter that reusable air filters let pass, that replaceable filters caught, was troubling.
Do I think that a K&N filter will damage your motorcycle engine, I don't know, probably not. If you lived in an area that was really dusty, it could be a contributing factor to greater engine wear.
Wow – those K&N filters are pretty “trick/slick” & took some effort to install, however being caught in a heavy rain “might” pose a problem.
As for increased H.P., - IMO I feel that my “stock” 2013 R12R has 90+++% “perfect” H.P. & torque for everything but the race track. Also, I agree with ERIN that “suspension”, particularly on the AC R12R (I’ve not ridden the WC R12R) pays “great” dividends/transformation, and would be particularly appreciated for riders that like doing canyon roads. Fo-get-about increased H.P- I want some Hyperpro, Wilbers or Yacugars!!!!!!
As for lots of H.P. “IMO” it’s great “FUN”, but it mainly provides me only with seat of the pants feelings and does not make me ride “that much faster/if any” through canyon roads (which is what I love to do). Also, most street riding happens below 110 MPH.
To un-scientifically make my point, a friend who I rode with (we both ride pretty much the same/scrape foot pegs on occasions through turns) was on his 2014 KTM Super Duke R with 152 H.P. – me on my AC R12R (w) 110 H.P. and I was right there with him/on occasion tried to pass on the outside/but could not. However, above 110 MPH (about 5% of the time) the KTM walked away, but not by the distance one would think. I’m sure that if a “MotoGP – Isle of Man” or similar skilled rider was on the KTM Duke, results would be much different.
Anyway, if I get the need for 5 to 10 extra H.P. for my AC R12R (which would be nice/make it 95% more perfect for me), I’ll get a Remus Header/booster plug – one reporters opinion.
As for increased H.P., - IMO I feel that my “stock” 2013 R12R has 90+++% “perfect” H.P. & torque for everything but the race track. Also, I agree with ERIN that “suspension”, particularly on the AC R12R (I’ve not ridden the WC R12R) pays “great” dividends/transformation, and would be particularly appreciated for riders that like doing canyon roads. Fo-get-about increased H.P- I want some Hyperpro, Wilbers or Yacugars!!!!!!
As for lots of H.P. “IMO” it’s great “FUN”, but it mainly provides me only with seat of the pants feelings and does not make me ride “that much faster/if any” through canyon roads (which is what I love to do). Also, most street riding happens below 110 MPH.
To un-scientifically make my point, a friend who I rode with (we both ride pretty much the same/scrape foot pegs on occasions through turns) was on his 2014 KTM Super Duke R with 152 H.P. – me on my AC R12R (w) 110 H.P. and I was right there with him/on occasion tried to pass on the outside/but could not. However, above 110 MPH (about 5% of the time) the KTM walked away, but not by the distance one would think. I’m sure that if a “MotoGP – Isle of Man” or similar skilled rider was on the KTM Duke, results would be much different.
Anyway, if I get the need for 5 to 10 extra H.P. for my AC R12R (which would be nice/make it 95% more perfect for me), I’ll get a Remus Header/booster plug – one reporters opinion.
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I agree with you Pete and Mike, I am sure I am not capable of using anywhere near 100% of the bike abilities, all that I am looking for is looks, if I could remove the air box completely, and reorganize cables or whatever is around there, and use some small filters, it will make the bike look so much better. My opinion.
But, if the bike can get damaged, or it can create a danger of any kind, I'm still really happy the way it is.
But, if the bike can get damaged, or it can create a danger of any kind, I'm still really happy the way it is.
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Hoshiko - if you're after looks and want to remove air box/replace with K&N air-filters, and want your "R" to still perform the same/possibly better, I'd make sure you get someone in the know/understands whats involved (unless you know how to do it yourself). Good luck, also I look forward to see various photos when you finish this project.
Have a great day
Have a great day
Changing to a K&N filter is not going to give you an additional 5hp. Can the ECM on an R1200R properly respond to the additional air/fuel that is being moved when you add an aftermarket air filter, headers and exhaust.
Doing that can cause some serious performance issues on other motorcycles.
Doing that can cause some serious performance issues on other motorcycles.
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3,992 Posts
I have used K&N filters on all my bikes I've owned, it definitely saves you money over buying paper filters, I did not buy it thinking I'd gain some HP.
The bike definitely sounds different (breathing easier for lack of a better word) under acceleration when you place one in for the first time….until you get you'st to the change of sound.
The discussing between the pro's and con's of each filter has been raging on for a long time.
I like this guys opinion, its a car forum, but post 5.
Air Filter - Paper vs. Cotton - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums
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