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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody done the ASC retrofit?

According to what I have read somewhere else it is possible if the bike has ABS and all required is a combination left switch like the one pictured and a software update. My R already has a similar switch but with the additional ESA button and instead of ASC has a ABS button that does nothing since ABS can not be disconnected. I asked my dealer but he has not been able to respond...:icon_scratch:

What do you know about?

Thanks

 

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My dealer installed the ASC to my bike in the first service.
Unfortunately I don't know how it's done but it CAN be done.
I got new left hand controls with the ASC button added.
My bike has ABS.
 

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I'd love to hear from anyone who has ASC who found it to work. Recently, my rear wheel spun on a rough patch of asphalt. The weather was below freezing and I was just starting out, so my tires were cold. ASC was on- but it did nothing. Had it checked out. My dealer said that it was functioning within specs. Maybe, the conversion from no ASC to ASC is so simple because all it is is an extra useless button!!
 

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I'd love to hear from anyone who has ASC who found it to work. Recently, my rear wheel spun on a rough patch of asphalt. The weather was below freezing and I was just starting out, so my tires were cold. ASC was on- but it did nothing. Had it checked out. My dealer said that it was functioning within specs. Maybe, the conversion from no ASC to ASC is so simple because all it is is an extra useless button!!
Well I've noticed it working during a ride on a rain soaked road. I could feel the back getting a bit light and then the yellow light started blinking and I regained grip. So it did do something. Mostly I notice the ASC during hard acceleration when it prevents wheelying. I haven't ridden on icy roads tough, so I dont know would it work. But since it uses the ABS sensors it should work. Maybe there is something wrong with your ASC, even if the dealer says otherwise? I mean sounds scary that the ASC didn't work when you need it most!
 

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I'd love to hear from anyone who has ASC who found it to work. Recently, my rear wheel spun on a rough patch of asphalt. The weather was below freezing and I was just starting out, so my tires were cold. ASC was on- but it did nothing. Had it checked out. My dealer said that it was functioning within specs. Maybe, the conversion from no ASC to ASC is so simple because all it is is an extra useless button!!

My bike has ASC which I assume is functional...but don't know what that function is! Last spring, in first gear, traveling less than 3 mph over frosted grass, I gave the bike just a very, very little throttle. I was traveling in a straight line. The rear tire immediately spun, causing the bike to almost fall over. Not a big deal...but no perceived ASC response. Also, my bike will easily raise the front tire... under very hard acceleration in 2nd or 3rd gear. My dealer says my ASC is performing admirably. :001_huh:

I've owned a 2002 Toyota 4Runner since new. It too, has VSC (Vehicle Skid Control). I've been investigating what Toyota's VSC is supposed to do since purchase day 1. Still have not figured it out, despite that exact topic precipitating long threads on several forums. I've tried using it on, off, w/ 4WD and w/o 4WD. Nothing. Toyota's VSC is supposed to lock my center differential...but does not do that either. As I almost daily use 4WD in my line of work, I can attest to my lack of true 4WD. My local Toyota stealership says my VSC is performing admirably.:dizzy:

Bottom line: mind your driving P's & Q's...and don't rely on nebulous technology. Oh, ya...almost forgot...my fuel strip stopped working at ~900 miles. Oh well, at least the trip meter is still functioning.
 

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Bottom line: mind your driving P's & Q's...and don't rely on nebulous technology. Oh, ya...almost forgot...my fuel strip stopped working at ~900 miles. Oh well, at least the trip meter is still functioning.
That's the main safety feature. Your own throttle hand. :iagree:
This fuel strip issue is starting to worry me. It worked well last summer <knock on wood> but fingers crossed then... :001_unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for you input, dealer confirmed they can install it and already made the order for the switch and ASC code for the computer. Quoted US$405 without labor.

I have started thinking it's too much for some technology I am not sure is either needed or actually works, the fact is that this roadster is a dream come true for me so I am not saving on performance, I want the best possible as far as it's reasonable from a cost/benefit standpoint. That's how I ended with a lot of factory options installed, full exhaust system, K&N filter, booster plug, LED lights...

I use to be conservative at the handlebar but with the extra ponies and the confidence this new roadster is giving me with the throttle I thought the ASC could be something like a cheap insurance.
 

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Here's BMW's white paper from Summer 2006, when they unveiled the R1200R, on the interworkings of ABS and ASC. Bottom line: ASC intervenes when it detects too much rear wheel slippage.

I'm a big believer in the cheap insurance notion. Those options acronyms always react quicker than me.
 

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I have a 2012 with ASC. When I was driving it home, I wasn't really used to it yet and was on the freeway with some light dew / fog. As I was going over the plastic bumps used to divide the lanes (plastic + dew = slippery), I gave it too much throttle and felt the engine cut out, with a yellow triangle flashing on the dash.

I accidentally high-sided a CBR 1000 RR once in a 30 mph right hand turn. I can't remember the accident but from what I pieced together it was a simple rider mistake. I'm convinced traction control or something like it would have saved me. So yeah, +1 for cheap insurance.
 

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I was reading this thread last week and wondered if the ASC did anything. Yesterday I was coming off a roundabout and rode across a line of pot holes on the exit. The yellow ASC light flashed a few times as the rear wheel slipped a little. I doubt if anything bad would have happened if I didn't have ASC but it's nice to know it works.
 

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I was reading this thread last week and wondered if the ASC did anything. Yesterday I was coming off a roundabout and rode across a line of pot holes on the exit. The yellow ASC light flashed a few times as the rear wheel slipped a little. I doubt if anything bad would have happened if I didn't have ASC but it's nice to know it works.
It's kind of hard to justify to pay for something you don't really know it works, like ABS or ASC or is my Shoei better then a Bell................

I hope no one finds out the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ASC retrofited

Finally I got ASC retrofited after a couple of months waiting for a combined switch that was in backorder from the factory and a couple of weeks waiting for the authorization code that the dealer dind't know how to download from the server in Germany supossedly because the user interface was changed some weeks ago.

The work itself is a simple task, the left combined switch at handlebar was replaced, no cables have to be rerouted since the plug to connect/disconnect the switch is right there on it.

Then the bike was connected to the diagnostic system, its software was updated with the new code downloaded from the manufacturer server and then memory values were reset . This took just a moment to be done.

All in all I was charged US$450 incl. tax
The switch alone was $405 (with ESA and INFO buttons) kind of expensive considering Max BMW list price is $273
Labor was $45 ($22.50 to replace switches, $22.50 to update codes, $15 to reset values, less $15 a 25% labor discount for being a BMW Club member)

They didn't charge me for the code, which is cool since Max BMW apparently charges $330 for it.

If anybody else wants to install ASC I suggest asking the dealer first, as I did, to ensure they are not going to charge you extra for the code or labor.
 

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Interesting read....I just bought a second hand r1200r from a dealer, the ASC switch is all there, but I found when recieved the bike, it not working.
When you buy a second hand bike from a bike shop here in New Zealand you are covered under the consumer gaurentee approx 3 months from purchase for things that are not right from description.
I just trailered the bike to the nearest BMW service (3 hours away) for them to check it out and to get it working at the bike shops expense.

It will be interesting to see what they find, as I found out after purchasing the guy who owned it had put another instrument cluster on!??!
 

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Finally I got ASC retrofited after a couple of months waiting for a combined switch that was in backorder from the factory and a couple of weeks waiting for the authorization code that the dealer dind't know how to download from the server in Germany supossedly because the user interface was changed some weeks ago.

The work itself is a simple task, the left combined switch at handlebar was replaced, no cables have to be rerouted since the plug to connect/disconnect the switch is right there on it.

Then the bike was connected to the diagnostic system, its software was updated with the new code downloaded from the manufacturer server and then memory values were reset . This took just a moment to be done.

All in all I was charged US$450 incl. tax
The switch alone was $405 (with ESA and INFO buttons) kind of expensive considering Max BMW list price is $273
Labor was $45 ($22.50 to replace switches, $22.50 to update codes, $15 to reset values, less $15 a 25% labor discount for being a BMW Club member)

They didn't charge me for the code, which is cool since Max BMW apparently charges $330 for it.

If anybody else wants to install ASC I suggest asking the dealer first, as I did, to ensure they are not going to charge you extra for the code or labor.
hi,
I am curious to the costs involved. The new switch cluster cost $405, and labor. But aren't there any other components to the ASC, like a computer module or something? Or do you suppose all the bikes have it already in their computer and/or gear that will allow just adding the switch will then activate the system?

I already have ASC on my bike, so I am just curious. And like others, I haven't really seen where it does it's thing, but I trust that when needed it'll help in a potentially tricky situation. I am also fairly new to the bike, and haven't pushed it so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hi,
I am curious to the costs involved. The new switch cluster cost $405, and labor. But aren't there any other components to the ASC, like a computer module or something? Or do you suppose all the bikes have it already in their computer and/or gear that will allow just adding the switch will then activate the system?

I already have ASC on my bike, so I am just curious. And like others, I haven't really seen where it does it's thing, but I trust that when needed it'll help in a potentially tricky situation. I am also fairly new to the bike, and haven't pushed it so far.
ASC relies on ABS components, when a difference in rotation speed between the rear and front wheels is detected through the ABS system the engine power is electronically cut to avoid a slipping. i.e. no rear wheel spinning if there is no traction. All our bikes already have a computer module to manage power. The only modification to the computer is the software update to activate the ASC capabilities.

Adding the switch only activates the ASC warning light, as a matter of fact I had the switch alone for two weeks in the meantime the dealer got the update codes, it made the ASC warning light stay on all the way, I guess that was the computer recognizing the switch but telling me hat ASC was not activated, it remained that way until the software was updated.

In short: ASC equipment (factory or retrofit) is only possible if ABS is equipped.
 

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Got it, thanks for the explanation...
 

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Resurrecting this old thread to share my traction control retrofit experience.

Dropped bike off at dealer, took a half-hour joy ride on a Bonneville T120 demo bike, and when I returned I had ASC. $172 for the "enable code" (part # 13617728272), $63 for shop time, $274 total out the door.

Scored a control switch housing off eBay for $61. I'm sure my old one will sell for at least that much, so let's call hardware cost a $0 net.

So I did better than the $400 original option price!! I think you need to have ABS and on-board computer to retrofit ASC. ESA not required, which I don't have. Mine is a 2010 (hex head).

Regarding the switch housing, I couldn't find an inexpensive used one with INFO and ASC buttons, but w/o ESA. So, I bought one that had INFO and ESA (no ASC) and rewired the ESA button with the ASC wires. I sanded off the "ESA" label so my new ASC button is blank. Good enough for me.

Switch housings are plug & play if you're not modifying one. Super easy to install.

 
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