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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I flushed the fluid today. I did not do the extra step. I don't have a lot of experience doing this (3rd or 4th time) and felt more in my comfort zone this way.

Both fronts went well. The rear was much more difficult to draw fluid. With 15" vacuum (handheld Mityvac) I'd only get a drizzle, have to draw it down, repeat. It took a while to get 2 oz out.

All in all I think I did more good than harm, lol. Luckily, I still ended up with firm pressure at both ends.
 

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I've seen enough ravaged motorcycle hydraulic systems now, so that I feel especially warm and fuzzy when I flush out old brake fluid. I can almost hear the bike thanking me!
 
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I flushed the fluid today. I did not do the extra step. I don't have a lot of experience doing this (3rd or 4th time) and felt more in my comfort zone this way.

Both fronts went well. The rear was much more difficult to draw fluid. With 15" vacuum (handheld Mityvac) I'd only get a drizzle, have to draw it down, repeat. It took a while to get 2 oz out.

All in all I think I did more good than harm, lol. Luckily, I still ended up with firm pressure at both ends.
Glad it went well! How much fluid did you end-up using?
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Looks like about 10 oz.

Edit: The one thing I struggled with was trying to pump (hand-held pump), and simultaneously opening the bleeder. 3 hands would work...

I thought it might be easier if the pump was stationary.

One hand works great with it wired in to a 2 X 4... :)

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A little Teflon tape on bleeder threads will help prevent air being sucked in when using a vacuum bleeder. I've had bikes that wouldn't get a good vacuum bleed without the tape. Obviously don't want any tape beyond the threads.
 

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Activation of the ABS pump is essential if the lines have been drained for some reason, but not for a normal change.
Some OCD types do it to try to ensure every last bit of old fluid is removed but that’s, well, OCD.
This is very helpful. I was concerned because someone told me if you mess up with the ABS you will not have any brakes?
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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The only complication with changing the brake fluid is somehow introducing air into the lines, rather than ‘messing with the ABS’ as such. Or doing something dumb like stripping/breaking a bleed valve from being ham fisted.

Make sure the master cylinder remains at least a third full. I always pour new fluid in very slowly to avoid introducing micro-bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
After receiving the new fluid, I like to leave it sit for a day or so. Hopefully to avoid issues from any micro-bubbles also.

As a side note: When I did my T120, I activated the ABS pump/valves to try and get all of the old fluid out. After I finished the fronts, I pumped and pumped the lever but couldn't build up any pressure. Thought I f'd it up. I tried the trick of tying the lever back (presumably to raise up any air) and that worked, luckily...
 

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Did the brake fluid flush. Any inside as to what this might be, and if this is normal: there was quite a bit of very fine metal glitter/dust coming-out with the old brake fluid, especially from the left front brake caliper (if seated on the bike)? I started brake fluid flush with the front left caliper. Much less metal dust came-out from the right front caliper, and almost no metal dust came from the rear brake. Metal dust is only visible if shining the light directly through the old brake fluid. This has me worried a bit, as there could be something messed-up with either the ABS pump or one of the calipers.
I've used BMW DOT4 fluid, one of the most affordable and convenient options around at under $6 shipped, and I don't need to worry about compatibility (as it would matter with DOT 4, lol) or driving around looking for a bargain. My R1250r is 2020, and I'm 99% sure that the brake fluid flush wasn't done by previous owner, since bike had only 1,500 miles when I bought it and was less than ten months on the road. I don't have a brake-bleeder vacuum pump, but I think next time I perform this procedure, I'll get on: it should be much easier than pumping the brake levers...

I have not done the ABS pump purge, as per recommended procedure, but I've done several laps around my building's parking garage, with several simulated panic stops. This actuated the ABS pump for both the rear and the front brakes, and as far as I can tell, everything works. I've also tied the front brake lever to the handlebar to let out any air bubbles that might have made its way into the line.
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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I can only think the metallic glitter came from the ABS pump, although I can’t imagine why this would be so. My only other thought was it’s the gold dust BMW puts in their oils/fluids to justify the price, but, for what you paid, this can’t be the case.
Given all works fine, and you flushed until you had clear fluid, I’d be happy to assume it was simply manufacturing ’leftovers’ and forget about it.
 

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I can only think the metallic glitter came from the ABS pump, although I can’t imagine why this would be so. My only other thought was it’s the gold dust BMW puts in their oils/fluids to justify the price, but, for what you paid, this can’t be the case.
Given all works fine, and you flushed until you had clear fluid, I’d be happy to assume it was simply manufacturing ’leftovers’ and forget about it.
I didn’t really get to the point of completely clear fluid… it still had some fine metal dust. I only had one bottle of brake fluid,12 OZ, and need the bike to be operational during the week. I’ll borrow a brake fluid pump from a friend, and repeat the process again as soon as I have a chance.
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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Given your bike is so new, it would be worth raising with the dealer as a potential warranty issue. at least there’d be a record should something fail prematurely in the future.

They might even wish to examine the fluid and raise it with the distributor on your behalf. I’d take this action before doing the next flush so that the evidence is still there.
 

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Given your bike is so new, it would be worth raising with the dealer as a potential warranty issue. at least there’d be a record should something fail prematurely in the future.

They might even wish to examine the fluid and raise it with the distributor on your behalf. I’d take this action before doing the next flush so that the evidence is still there.
Thank you, I will check with them.
 
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I rode for about 30 minutes, stop and go traffic, not demanding at all. Brakes are fine, can't say that I see any different from before the brake fluid flush. I have a longer ride coming-up this weekend with potential two-up, and some spirited riding.
 

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I rode for about 30 minutes, stop and go traffic, not demanding at all. Brakes are fine, can't say that I see any different from before the brake fluid flush. I have a longer ride coming-up this weekend with potential two-up, and some spirited riding.
Honestly, if you flush on a regular basis, you should never really be able to notice a difference... The difference comes when the fluid absorbs enough moisture over time (leaving it too long before changing) that when on a spirited long ride or track day, the fluid boils and you experience "brake fade" - or also known as "no brakes"....
 
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