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Discussion Starter #1
You folks ever notice how the pics on the home page show a European spec bike without the "Activated Charcoal Filter/FUEL VENTILAT" mounted in front of the front shock? Well, I'm in Germany and every bike I see here, except other US spec bikes, lacks this assembly, so I start loking it over and decide to take mine off. I won't lie and say it was a 20 minute job, but it wasn't especially hard either, just took some time to reroute drain lines, pull brackets and find just the right cap for the vacum fittng on the left intake (if you look, you'll see the right already has a little rubber cap about the size of what would fit over the tip of a ball point pen). I think it looks way better and really cleans up the front end. If your interested, just look up a euro and US spec bike in RealOEM.com   BMW K27 R 1200 R 11 (0400,0490) Activated Charcoal Filter/FUEL VENTILAT and check out the differences - one just vents and drains the fuel tank, the US has all that crazy plumbing that circulates it all throught the filter. No extra parts or connectors needed (except for that tiny cap on the intake).
 

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OK, right, but why is it there and what happens to your fuel, your engine, your emissions, if you pull it out. They used to think that the spleen, the appendix and the frontal lobe of the brain were extraneous parts too. . . . :)
 

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Missing that bit of plumbing on mine here in Japan. EPA BS ? Runs great, but that's because it's matte gray metallic. My US oilheads have charcoal cannisters.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From what I'm told by the importers of tax free US spec bikes sold in Germany is that all bikes sold through this program must meet the strictest US emmission standard (California a far as I know). End of the day most any bike has two lines attached to the fuel tank, most drain out on the underside of the bike behind the foot pegs. WIth a US spec bike that meets Calif emmissions these same two lines get an extra charcoal canister, a vacum line, soem circuitous routing and an extra fee to put it all on. WHen you take it all off, you lose about 5+ pounds, and right back where every bike not made for Calif is, a little simpler, lighter and cleaner looking.

Craig
 

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WHen you take it all off, you lose about 5+ pounds, and right back where every bike not made for Calif is, a little simpler, lighter and cleaner looking.Craig
'

Maybe so. . .but will you have to reprogram the engine/fuel mix, etc? Does it void the warranty?
 

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will you have to reprogram the engine/fuel mix, etc? Don't think so.IMO
Does it void the warranty? Depends on your dealer in USA.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
will you have to reprogram the engine/fuel mix, etc? Don't think so.IMO
Does it void the warranty? Depends on your dealer in USA.
You are simply letting a few molocules of fuel lose in the atmosphere instead of routing them through the canister - like every other non-Calif EPA spec'd bike in the world. The only to make sure you do is plug that little nipple coming off the left side intake that provides the vacum to pull the vapors through the canister. Ever notice how Claif fuel pump nozzles have that giant rubber boot on them suppsedly prevent fumes from fueling escaping into the air? Same idea only you carry this one around with you.
 

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The evap canister has been removed on my 2009 Moto Guzzi V7 Classic. Removing it made a huge difference in the way the engine runs and starts. Almost like night and day. On the Guzzi the output from the canister dumps into intake track between the throttle bodys and the head. Ran a tube between the two vacuum ports rather than just plugging them. Engine runs sweet and does not pop and bang when decelerating. It just burbles like my Guzzi 850T did back in the day. Oh, I replaced the oem exhaust cans with Mistral slash cuts. Because the engine is setup to run so lean, they would make a lot of noise under deceleration.
 

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I removed the canister on my 2011. I also took off the solenoid that controls the canister and re-routed the tank vent hose on the right side along with the hose that was already there. Overall it just looks cleaner with the canister and bracket removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Agree

Way cleaner looking and way less complications. Reverts back to the basic functions needed to meet basic funcionality.
 

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canister

there's a lot of discussion and how-to on another forum about this subject. I looked it up in relation to finding room for an aftermarket horn.

I'm not going to remove it till i'm out of warranty, but I know lots of guys on lots of different bikes who have done what is often termed a "de-smog" operation that involves removing PAIR system plumbing and such, usually obtaining better performance. This is apparently a much simpler process and mechanism that does not impair the O2 sensor system, etc.

BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T Message Board • View forum - R1200R
 

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I removed the canister on my 2011. I also took off the solenoid that controls the canister and re-routed the tank vent hose on the right side along with the hose that was already there. Overall it just looks cleaner with the canister and bracket removed.
reviving an old thread here...
i've done some searching and I can't find the answer to my question.
i know that you can remove the solenoid and fool the computer into thinking it's still there. you have to solder a resister inline the two wires going into the solenoid (so, snip off the electrical plug).
does anybody know what resister to use?
i did this on my ktm....but only because some other person figured it all out and posted it online....:goodjob:
 

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OK, right, but why is it there and what happens to your fuel, your engine, your emissions, if you pull it out. They used to think that the spleen, the appendix and the frontal lobe of the brain were extraneous parts too. . . . :)
regarding the cannister, not much it seems.
regarding the spleen, ok esp when young
the appendix, meh, more risk than reward
the frontal lobe? It seems useful in a diminishing number of the population, and used by even fewer.
 

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reviving an old thread here...
i've done some searching and I can't find the answer to my question.
i know that you can remove the solenoid and fool the computer into thinking it's still there. you have to solder a resister inline the two wires going into the solenoid (so, snip off the electrical plug).
does anybody know what resister to use?
i did this on my ktm....but only because some other person figured it all out and posted it online....:goodjob:
Pull the solenoid and measure the resistance. Be careful tho, solenoids are just energized copper windings of fairly low resistance that allow considerable current. If its a pulsed/latching device wattage of the dummy resistor will not be an issue. If on the other hand its a non-latching type it will have a constant, possibly large current and the dummy resistor will need to be of sufficient wattage to dissipate the heat.
 

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Pull the solenoid and measure the resistance. Be careful tho, solenoids are just energized copper windings of fairly low resistance that allow considerable current. If its a pulsed/latching device wattage of the dummy resistor will not be an issue. If on the other hand its a non-latching type it will have a constant, possibly large current and the dummy resistor will need to be of sufficient wattage to dissipate the heat.
Good response....I wish I didn't have to be the guinea pig..
 

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Sure. If you re route the drain and vent hoses, tuck the solenoid in where it can't be seen. The computer will still think its working.

Newer cars look for a change in RPM when the purge valve opens, but I don't think these bikes are that smart.

David

Edit: My opinion on removing it. The canister purifies the vapor vented from your tank removing Hydrocarbons. This helps clean up the air.
The bike will run no better or worse with it or without it. Its your bike, do as you please.

It may look better and will loose some weight.
 

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This helps clean up the air.
:)

So moving ahead, I just looked at my E-manual and there is no schematic re the evap system. I don't know if it a open or closed system. If its open a simple dummy resistor of should fool the ecu w/o impacting performance. If its closed loop it may skew fueling or go into limp mode, at the very least it will throw an annoying error code despite the dummy resistor.

Anyone know the evap system of the R?
 
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