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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all. I am interested in doing the final drive service on the R12 myself. I searched youtube but only found a vid on a GS. It appears to have a bit different final drive setup than the R. I am not particularly experienced with mechanical stuff, but am able follow directions well enough. Any advice or vids/pics any of you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Maybe this is a job left to a Beemer dealer technician? Thank you for your time.
 

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Have not actually done it myself, but plan to. I have the Haynes book and it covers that and many other subjects with nice photos. Mine is the '10-'12 edition.

Looks like you have to remove the muffler and rear wheel to get at the filler hole. Bit of a pain, but not insurmountable.

Bob
 

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Yonder Bob, how is that Haynes manual? Would it cover replacing the front and rear shocks in detail so an amateur mechanic like myself could do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have not actually done it myself, but plan to. I have the Haynes book and it covers that and many other subjects with nice photos. Mine is the '10-'12 edition.

Looks like you have to remove the muffler and rear wheel to get at the filler hole. Bit of a pain, but not insurmountable.

Bob
Thanks Bob. Yeah, failed to mention :closedeyes:, mine is an '07. The youtube vid on the GS didn't look too difficult, just different config. than our R's.
 

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not difficult at all on an 09. Done it a couple of times. The hardest part is squirting the lube through the filler tube without making a mess, go slooooowly. the technique changed at some time in the past, prior to 09. I also add that I have a Remus muffler that I do not have to move out of the way.

Haynes manual is only game in town; last I checked there was no Clymer's and the only alt is the BMW service manual, many $$$ and prob not better for what you'll do

That said, the Haynes is pretty good and covers the basic stuff well.

John
 

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Yonder Bob, how is that Haynes manual? Would it cover replacing the front and rear shocks in detail so an amateur mechanic like myself could do it?
Actually I happen to have the '04-'09 version of the Haynes book in brand new condition and I'd be glad to send it to you for the price of shipping (if you are in the US?). I bought it back when I was researching the bike purchase. I like to know what I'm up against with maintenance issues because I do most myself once the warranty is over and I figured not much would have changed on the '12.

Quite detailed section on the shocks and suspension.

If you want it, PM your details and I'll send it to you.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well folks, I took the plunge & did the FD oil change on my own. Not too difficult, but I had a brain fart while putting things back together. Long story short, I apparently cross threaded the drain plug when re-installing it. I backed it out & there were a couple of slivers in the threaded area. I carefully removed those that I could see, but my concern is the possibility that some could have been pushed into the FD. I used a telescoping magnet around the threaded area but nothing stuck to the magnet (slivers maybe aluminum?). I added the gear oil & re-assembled everything, but I have to say I am anxious about the possibilities. I am sure none of you have ever made such a bone headed move, but in the unlikely event that you had done such a thing, what would you do now? Thanks for your time.
 

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now that you know how to do it, drain it again and let it sit/drain for a good while.
You might drain through a kitchen strainer or some cheese cloth or a coffee filter. Chances are the metal bits are right by the drain and will emerge early.
Look at the inside of the plug, too. It may be magnetic. Probably not a big deal as long as you still have a viable plug and seal.
That oil does not really get warm with use, so to thin it you might want to direct a lamp at the FD assembly before you drain to warm things up.
I would think that even if you can't find the shards that metal is soft enough that they will be chewed pretty good even if they get into the gears

That plug goes in smoothly, ie it does not bind on the way in.
 

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Flusing Metal Shards

A mechanic freind of mine taught me to flush out rebuilt engine sumps w/ kerosene.

Fill and drain a couple of times w/ kerosene, and then fill w/ oil, run the engine (gear case, diff, fork, etc.) BRIEFLY. Then drain and fill to the proper specs.

It may waste a little oil but you will get everything out and have peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you all for your time & insight. I have made a couple of commutes (80 miles) this past week & have had no issues. Right now I am inclined to leave well enough alone & hope that any aluminum that may be inside will get chewed up w/o incident. The drain plug was a bit sludgy when I originally removed it for servicing, but no metal fragments were on it. I hope that continues to be the case in the future. I really love the R for my purposes & I plan to own it for years to come. Happy & safe riding to all! :)
 

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Afternoon, got a 2016 R1200RS used.. just past 15k and the local BMW shop had nothing on the vin about previous maintenance. I took it in the BMW shop for a full workup. Oil, valve check, spark plugs, FD oil change and air filter. My issue is with I can now hear the final drive when I took it out after getting it home. When I stop after 20 mins of riding the casing around the FD is scolding hot. I took the fill cap off the FD and I see clear oil on it.. but I am still concerned with the sound and how hot it gets. Any ideas? I can always spend 10 bucks and drain and add the required 180ml. Just seeing if anyone had this issue. I didnt have this issue before the new change of FD oil.
 

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Afternoon, got a 2016 R1200RS used.. just past 15k and the local BMW shop had nothing on the vin about previous maintenance. I took it in the BMW shop for a full workup. Oil, valve check, spark plugs, FD oil change and air filter. My issue is with I can now hear the final drive when I took it out after getting it home. When I stop after 20 mins of riding the casing around the FD is scolding hot. I took the fill cap off the FD and I see clear oil on it.. but I am still concerned with the sound and how hot it gets. Any ideas? I can always spend 10 bucks and drain and add the required 180ml. Just seeing if anyone had this issue. I didnt have this issue before the new change of FD oil.
Rear drive oil is black, not clear. Odds they put in regular oil and not the required gear oil?
 
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