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Yeah, makes me wonder if the reason it is not in the service schedule, is because if applied at manufacture it should be fine for many years.

So has the application of the paste been missed on the odd bike now and again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Yeah, makes me wonder if the reason it is not in the service schedule, is because if applied at manufacture it should be fine for many years.

So has the application of the paste been missed on the odd bike now and again?
It seems very strange as i said i have a 1200rt also it's a 2010 with 29k and the splines are perfect well lubricated and have been like that for the 10k and three years i have owned the bike.
 

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Mark – 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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Motorworks stocks three different greases for splines
 

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I'm not sure about the science behind it, but I have had experience with moly based greases drying out and ending up as clumps of dried powdery lumps. In our lathe chucks we have to add grease on a pretty regular schedule to avoid that and maintain smooth operation. If it breaks down like that it no longer provides any lubrication performance. So I would say if inspection looks good and greasy your fine, if it isn't wet and sloppy with grease, make it so ASAP.
 

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In following this, I‘d like to know if this maintenance item is on the schedule? I know about the rear drive drain and fill, but this sounds like removing the drive shaft and applying fresh lube every so often.
 

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Mark – 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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It is not listed on the BMW maintenance schedule. At my 100,000 km service (where the rear drive will be due for an oil change) I plan to drop the drive to inspect the spline. Unless it's showing signs of rust, I'll just give a lick of moly grease and be done with it – not being subject to inundation or water crossings, it should be fine for the future. Note, though, that my drive was replaced due to minor accident damage so the dealer would have given it a good dose of grease when fitting, I'd expect (even if it was overlooked at factory).
 

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...Note, though, that my drive was replaced due to minor accident damage so the dealer would have given it a good dose of grease when fitting, I'd expect (even if it was overlooked at factory).
Well, my “incident“ when I got the bike resulted in replacing the rear drive, so here’s hoping it got the same treatment. I don’t mind dismounting the shaft drive on occasion to ensure it’s in good order, but if this kind of thing CAN happen, then there should be a recommend interval to inspect. Like the CV joints on a front wheel drive, so long as the boots are intact and not leaking, you’re good. If they get damaged, inspection, cleaning and possible repairs are required.
 

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I have had the same problem this week and think that the splines were never greased at assembly. Both ends of the shaft totally seized and required a lot of persuasion to get apart
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Mark – 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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You were lucky to get it apart, @Malcolm c!
What year and mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
5 years old but only 16000 miles. I only use it in the summer and have owned it from new
Hi My bike still has the seized splines both ends i have contacted Bmw uk/Germany and they don't want to know.Bmw decided that because there is no sliding movement on the splines due to the geometry of the swingarm that NO lubrication is needed at manufacture this appear to affect bikes 2016 onwards.
 

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Mark – 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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NO lubrication is needed at manufacture
All well and good until the final drive needs to be removed for some reason (if only due to accident damage) or the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
All well and good until the final drive needs to be removed for some reason (if only due to accident damage) or the engine.
Yes exactly mine won't come apart 2016 with 6k Bmw are just washing their hands on this problem disgusting customer relations.
 

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How difficult is removing the ends of the driveshaft for inspection and lubrication?
 

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It would probably be a couple of hours to remove the drive shaft and put it back together if everything was OK. Front shaft may be a bit awkward to get back on as I have only tried with the boot off after cleaning the splines up. I am waiting for the correct grease to come before it goes back together. I would think that it took me about 10 hours over two days to get it apart and cleaned up
 

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Paul, I literally feel your pain... above, see my 2017 R1200R, 6800 miles and the rear shaft is rusted stuck. Rode in the rain once, parked most of the year, washed and waxed more times than I care to remember. (Should I have ridden more and washed less..?"
I used a pry bar and hammer (very carefully) to dislodge the not as bad front so I could remove the entire unit, as the rear would not drop down on its own. Now the best idea I have is to buy a small ball joint separator (with a 1" space) to try to break the rust holding the rear sections together. Its been soaking in PB Blaster penetrating oil for a few hours, and doesn't seem to care.

Also, I am not sure I accept BMW's theory of no movement due to the geometry. The lower part of the final drive is mounted on roller bearings, and the swing arm moves in an arc. If there was no movement, why not bolt the swing arm solidly to the drive unit and save the cost of two really fancy sets of bearings...? When I inspected them, it seemed to me that my needle bearings in the swing arm were taking a bit of a beating. Anyways, I suspect the culprit might be condensation draining down as most of the rust is on one side of each spline section. Will take more pics as this progresses.
 

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It would probably be a couple of hours to remove the drive shaft and put it back together if everything was OK. Front shaft may be a bit awkward to get back on as I have only tried with the boot off after cleaning the splines up. I am waiting for the correct grease to come before it goes back together. I would think that it took me about 10 hours over two days to get it apart and cleaned up
What was your trick on the rear section??? There is not much room for a pry bar to work well, and the angle is bad to try a hammer and drift. As I said above, I am gonna try a ball joint separator next.
 
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