Thanks for that, Pz! That fix could be in the future for many of us. And that is truly a ridiculous price for a switch in the US or Oz!
The original part isn’t a housing for two separate switches as such, so it would be a very complex exercise to reproduce it, especially with the electrical conductors in place.Is this still the best known way (outside of OEM part replacement) of dealing with the clutch switch? …
Spit-balling some other ideas, what about creating a replacement housing for two switches via 3D printing? It looks like the switch in the first image at least is a Farnell V4NC4S (datasheet).
Checking back in, I’ve not had any further trouble with the clutch lever. The cruise also reliably disengages with only a slight pull of the lever, whereas it always seemed finicky before. Thanks for the heads upThere’s been more than one instance reported, @trogdor1138, of handlebar connectors not being pushed fully home at the factory, and later working loose so that connectivity fails or becomes intermittent.
The intent is to drill only through the outer casing, not into its innards, viper.I tried drilling in the marked locations but immediately hit the spring. I joined all 3 wires together and now can start with the clutch pulled in first. Any concerns with this? I know not to start in gear without the clutch pulled (which I think this would allow).