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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I've just swapped the footpegs of my 2015 LC with a lower variety and hurt my baby-soft typing fingers trying to get the springs back on.

Are there any tips / heads-ups that anyone can share to make this a bit easier?

Matt
 

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Sounds a bit silly, but pointy nose pliers usually does the job for me.....
 

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No need for left vs right handed pliers - just turn 'em upside down.

I've had the footpegs off numerous bikes, including the current two, and I don't recall having to use anything to re-install them. It's hard to describe, but I just use the peg itself as a lever to compress the spring into place, and push the pivot pin through with the heel of my other hand. Well, small white lie there - I do use small pliers to put the c-clip back on, or cotter pin if that's what it uses.
 

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No need for left vs right handed pliers - just turn 'em upside down.

I've had the footpegs off numerous bikes, including the current two, and I don't recall having to use anything to re-install them. It's hard to describe, but I just use the peg itself as a lever to compress the spring into place, and push the pivot pin through with the heel of my other hand. Well, small white lie there - I do use small pliers to put the c-clip back on, or cotter pin if that's what it uses.
I swapped out the pegs for lowered ones as well using the same technique, no pliers required. I didn't even need pliers for the c-clip retainers, just started them by hand, then used a flat bladed screw driver to push then into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the information on the right-handed metric pointy nose pliers. I didn't realise this tool existed.

I'll go out and try (not) to bloody up my soft knuckles using the well-described "It's hard to describe, but I just use the peg itself as a lever to compress the spring into place, and push the pivot pin through with the heel of my other hand." approach.

:)

Matt
 

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If you don't have any luck, post again, and I'll go out and take one off and put it back on to see if I can recover enough vocabulary to describe it better. I replaced my stock pegs with SW-Motech pegs a couple of years ago.

If I had a reliable camerawoman, I might even have a go at a video. I'm not sure I'm capable of documenting with a camera all by myself. The finished product would probably consist of me trying to extricate myself from under a fallen motorcycle, with the audio heavily censored.

PS, if you worry about your knuckles, wear gloves.
 

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Do I have to leave my ChannelLocks immersed in salt water for a few weeks to get the proper patina? :surprise:

I don't recall the Roadster springs being that stiff, but I did buy new c-clips because the originals were made from some sort of cheese unfamiliar to me.

On my R9T I re-used some old Pivot Pegz from my F800GS, which I had to creatively grind to make fit. As a result I re-installed them several times until I was happy with my grinding job. I think for those I used a long punch as a locating pin just to make it a bit easier. I don't remember needing ViceGrips or ChannelLocks. I probably used the back end of a big screwdriver to tap in the pivot pin; that's usually my soft hammer of choice.
 

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Do I have to leave my ChannelLocks immersed in salt water for a few weeks to get the proper patina? :surprise:

I don't recall the Roadster springs being that stiff, but I did buy new c-clips because the originals were made from some sort of cheese unfamiliar to me.

On my R9T I re-used some old Pivot Pegz from my F800GS, which I had to creatively grind to make fit. As a result I re-installed them several times until I was happy with my grinding job. I think for those I used a long punch as a locating pin just to make it a bit easier. I don't remember needing ViceGrips or ChannelLocks. I probably used the back end of a big screwdriver to tap in the pivot pin; that's usually my soft hammer of choice.


Haha - saltwater Channellock pliers are the poverty pack version. Agreed on the cotter pin on shouldn't be that difficult or need to be hammered in but the overall method worked for me (using first-world tools). I changed foot pegs on my Camhead & LC (twice) and this worked best for me. The major issue I found was compressing the spring and even more so on my LC. My suggestion is just that... Just saying


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On a Japanese bike I had, I swapped the footpegs for rubber-topped ones. The OEs were installed with a peg and circlip on one side, the other side with a rivet, the head of which needed drilling/ grinding out. Go figure.. but no problem with the new springs, I just inserted a screwdriver shaft between spring-head and a nearby bit of the peg and lo! - easy peasy. :nerd:
 

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I'm wondering how he managed with right handed long nose pliers rather than the appropriate left handers. :icon_scratch:






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I'm wondering how he managed with right handed long nose pliers rather than the appropriate left handers. :icon_scratch:
The video would be helpful, but I cannot agree with the thought of leaving off the circlip. The consequences of having a footpeg fall off during flight might be devastating! :frown2:
 

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The video would be helpful, but I cannot agree with the thought of leaving off the circlip. The consequences of having a footpeg fall off during flight might be devastating! :frown2:
As a matter of principle, I would not omit it. With a bit of handiwork with pliers (left or right handed, metric or imperial) one can rejuvenate such C-clips. It doesn't need to withstand great forces, but it makes sense to have it there (otherwise BMW would have saved a milli-cent and not designed it to be there).
 
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Best way I've found to deal with cheesy c-clips, in the absence of a proper replacement, is to use safety-wire around the groove and properly twisted. It doesn't hurt that I have a ClampTite tool from my dirt-bike days (I'm a cut above my fellow Canucks who are notorious for their use of duct tape to solve the world's problems). Also good for axe-handle repairs after you've dealt with one too many zombies.
 

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As a matter of principle, I would not omit it. With a bit of handiwork with pliers (left or right handed, metric or imperial) one can rejuvenate such C-clips. It doesn't need to withstand great forces, but it makes sense to have it there (otherwise BMW would have saved a milli-cent and not designed it to be there).

My dealer gave me a couple of C-clip freebies and I kept the originals as spares. There's nothing wrong with originals after a slight touch up with long nose pliers.


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I think you have a gentler touch than I. I'm like the proverbial bull in the c-clip shop - last one I tried rehabilitating ended up as a w-clip.

Maybe I need to get myself some proper right-handed down-under long-neck pliers instead of the $2 lefties I bought at a bodega in Mexico a couple of years ago. (Long boring story about a rental car's battery clamps - use your imagination)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I don't recall the Roadster springs being that stiff, but I did buy new c-clips because the originals were made from some sort of cheese unfamiliar to me.
@sturgeon, thanks for the offer to reproduce your peg change for my benefit. And yes, the roadster springs are remarkably stiff. I have no doubt it can be done by hand - but the tool usage made it much easier.

You're right about the E-clips being very soft - I noticed this the other day. A gentle squeeze with a a pair of pliers tightened them up to my satisfaction.

I had the same issue until I used this method. Easy as..
https://youtu.be/HkEwHb95ZLo
Thanks @mikeS - this video was perfect. I was on my way out to the garage with an Irwin Quick-Grip clamp with the idea of squeezing the spring into place when I decided to check this thread first. The video was, therefore, a nice confirmation of my plan of attack. A benefit to the Quick Grip clamp is that it is non-marring.

Thanks again folks.

Matt
 

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