[Ontrip]

Thanks for the feedback and my bike is getting close to the 30k mark so it is planned for the end of our Canadian riding season.

I will be prepared for dissembling but maybe tempted with the “Dump and run” if able to extract 99% of the oil. And yes, the Left fork concerns me too.

Also planning to clean and lubricate the seals additionally as an interim step with forks on the bike between the Fork oil change.

Great thread.

 

[Panzermann]

Looking at Dave Moss's answers to questions on his dump-and-run videos, he recommends a full strip every 10,000 miles of road riding (16,000 km - twice as frequent as BMW's service schedule) and a dump-and-run every 3000 miles (5000 km) to limit the amount of metal accumulation.

A further point in relation to the dump-and-run technique is the accuracy you're aiming for with the filled oil level (for ESA, the spec is 75 mm and 80 mm for the LH and RH forks respectively). With a measuring jug being around an estimated 6-7 times the area of the fork tube (at the measuring point), any error in the measured replacement oil level in the jug will be amplified by this proportion in the filled oil level. That is, a 1 mm error in the jug will result in say 6-7 mm error in oil level setting within the fork. A measuring cylinder would be more accurate, although may require the use of a funnel to catch the old oil, and would be more difficult to clean out the old oil/debris (maybe rinse with kerosene/paraffin).

 

[home4sale2]

I recall having the same questions. If I had to do it all over again, I would go through removal of springs. This was my first time. The next one will be pump and dump and I may just alternate the full vs partial moving forward. I think the trouble wouldn’t be worth it each time but fwiw, that last percent or two had more crap than the rest of the oil. So, if it’s the first ever, maybe consider removing springs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Panzermann]

It’s certainly a useful technique if you simply wish to change oil viscosity.

 

[Sprigger]

If you're doing a dump and pump, particularly if using the same fluid type, then it'll be more accurate to weigh the jug and old fluid that comes out, using digital kitchen scales, then refilli the emptied and cleaned jug with fresh fluid to the same weight, refill should be accurate to 1 gram (a bit less than 1ml). Unless, as PM suggests, some fluid gets spilt.

 

[Panzermann]

I thought if that, @Sprigger (having done that to check how much oil the dealer put in my replacement rear drive - ~20g less than what I normally drain, conforming they’d use the refill volume rather than initial fill).

I was hesitant to suggest that though given the metallic contamination - I expected to be challenged on that, and have no authoritative answer on how much difference the metal would make. (Likely minimal)

 

[Ontrip]

First Fork Oil Change completed!

Just completed the Fork oil change on my 2017 R12R using Panzermann’s tutorial and notes and the illustrated Step by step Service Manual from raesgar28

R1200RS Step by Step Service Manual

Hi there! I've finally managed to make my own step-by-step service manual, so i would like to share with you the pdf. I would be very pleased to know any fault or something to add/remove from it. By the way, the manual is in Spanish, but i think it can be very usefull anyway...

www.r1200rforum.com

As the bike is about to reach 30,000 kms, I completed the 30k inspection including an oil change with BMW Advantec and Filter and took the valve covers off to check the valve clearance ( done at 20k inspection) and inspect the camshaft surfaces.

Also purchased the “Gold Standard” BMW Fork oil for an astonishingly low $CDN 24.34 from my local BMW dealership.

Spring compressor (Home built)
Purchased a 3 inch PVC pipe coupling and 2 6 inch X 9/16 lag bolts and some nuts and washers from Home Depot
A $5 ratchet strap to hold the compressed spring in place under tension made the job easier and basically eliminated the need for the slotted washer.

Fork Oil Level
The Motion Pro Fork oil level gauge I purchased a few years ago to do my F800r re-spring came in handy for setting the oil levels

The actual work after the bike was taken apart took about 4 hours with the help of my son where a second pair of hands help like the fork removal from the bike and compressing the springs.

Overall, apart from compressing the spring, the servicing is pretty straightforward with basic tools.

A friend suggested adding masking take to the wrench jaws to remove the fork cap nuts and that made a big difference in protecting them from marks.

Ended up having to use a piece of wire coat hanger instead of the suggested rubber hose as I discovered that hose was too loose fitting over the damper rod.

With the front end apart, took the opportunity to give the front calipers a good cleaning removing the brake pads and cleaning the disk with brake cleaner.
Will bleed the brakes in the spring before the season starts.

Have taken the bike for a short test ride but could not determine a significant change but it was only a short ride before putting it away for the Canadian winter.

 

[Panzermann]

A great find by @ashwood, and surprising info about the similarity between the two types of BMW fork oil – as well as the fact that Type 2 has supposedly been fitted to new bikes since 2013.

Given their similar cSt rating, I suspect the SAE rating difference between the two is due to different manufacturers (BMW moving from BP to Shell, I think, for their oils) – I can think of no other reason why a higher SAE figure would have a marginally lower cSt rating, other than, perhaps a new formulation by the manufacturer (hence the warning about not mixing the two types).

I'd think new oil will always feel better than old oil due to breakdown of the oil in service. The Castrol 10W I initially used certainly felt better than the original oil did at 30,000 km. By then I was well used to the bike, and prior to the change in Road mode it felt like the front end was falling away a little on quick tip-in. The Castrol solved that, and firmed up the ride in the process. The change back to BMW (Type 2) oil made the ride a little more supple without sacrificing feel on tip-in (as with the initial oil in my bike once aged). They have very similar cSt ratings at 40℃ but maybe the Castrol is more viscous at lower temperatures (most of my riding is relatively short runs on smooth roads) hence the harsher feeling. Who knows ...

 

[ashwood]

A great find by @ashwood, and surprising info about the similarity between the two types of BMW fork oil – as well as the fact that Type 2 has supposedly been fitted to new bikes since 2013.

Given their similar cSt rating, I suspect the SAE rating difference between the two is due to different manufacturers (BMW moving from BP to Shell, I think, for their oils) – I can think of no other reason why a higher SAE figure would have a marginally lower cSt rating, other than, perhaps a new formulation by the manufacturer (hence the warning about not mixing the two types).

I'd think new oil will always feel better than old oil due to breakdown of the oil in service. The Castrol 10W I initially used certainly felt better than the original oil did at 30,000 km. By then I was well used to the bike, and prior to the change in Road mode it felt like the front end was falling away a little on quick tip-in. The Castrol solved that, and firmed up the ride in the process. The change back to BMW (Type 2) oil made the ride a little more supple without sacrificing feel on tip-in (as with the initial oil in my bike once aged). They have very similar cSt ratings at 40℃ but maybe the Castrol is more viscous at lower temperatures (most of my riding is relatively short runs on smooth roads) hence the harsher feeling. Who knows ...

Thanks for the info on the Castrol 10W. I will use it when changing the fork oil in a couple of months time. I have noticed on the raesgar28 service manual (excellent work) that the BMW Type II fork oil in Spain? cost 17 euro. Here, Rolfe Classic BMW charges nearly $60 (about double) - I wonder why.

 

[Panzermann]

Rolfe Classic BMW charges nearly $60 (about double) - I wonder why

They like big, round numbers ...

 

[Ontrip]

Type 2 BMW for oil for $24 CDN at your friendly Motorrad dealer.

 

[Panzermann]

Type 2 BMW for oil for $24 CDN at your friendly Motorrad dealer.

Even adding GST to your price, Ontrip, that's less than half. I think we're being taken for a (gold plated) ride here in Oz – or in Canberra at least, @ashwood ...

 

[Ontrip]

Adding a well done YouTube post of a Fork oil change.

Update: Note the oil levels for the R and RS differ:

R states 75mm on the ESA side fork and 85mm on the non ESA fork.

 

[Panzermann]

Great find, @Ontrip.
Note that oil level specs for the RS are different to the R but other than that, technically identical.
I wonder how his 10wt aftermarket fork oil compares with the spec BMW oil.

 

[Ontrip]

Have updated to note the difference on oil levels for R and RS.

Plan to use the BMW Type 2 for my next change unless BMW Canada has decided to price it like they price their gear oil for the final drive.