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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone hook a general purpose fuse box up to the 12's battery to plug in farkles, USB's LED's without the CAN-Bus getting all pissy. Recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Web. It looks like you have to buy and install the fuses, calculate the amperage, etc for each circuit on the Fuzeblock? Does the Fuzeblock at least just connect to the battery, or is even that connection an electrical engineer's problem? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also note that the Fuzeblock blithely wants you to install an "inline fuse' along the positive terminal. . .uh, where does one get those and how does it connect into the Fuzeblock. Also, if I remove my battery cable to install it, does that weird out the storage for various things on the R's computer?
 

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I also note that the Fuzeblock blithely wants you to install an "inline fuse' along the positive terminal. . .uh, where does one get those and how does it connect into the Fuzeblock. Also, if I remove my battery cable to install it, does that weird out the storage for various things on the R's computer?
Auto parts stores carry them, here's one at Autozone:
Painless Wiring/20 Amps in line fuse weatherpack fuse loop (70438) | Fuse Block | AutoZone.com

Disconnecting the battery will reset the clock, so it affects at least some things, but it won't cause any actual problems as far as I've experienced.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh, and then it's "go to your service manual and find a switched power supply lead and tap into it. . . " see below. Do non-engineers ever write instructions? This reads to me like "take the fooberator lead and eraculate it just under the whyseryster, taking care not to mancolulate the kwip-line. . ." :)

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery. Then
remove the cover and mount the FZ-1 being sure that
the
back of the FZ-1, with the exception of the mountin
g
posts, do not come into contact with metal or groun
d.
2. Connect a 12 gauge wire from the +12VDC input (J1
)
to the positive terminal of the battery. Make sure
to
install an in-line fuse somewhere along the wire as
close
to the battery terminal as possible.
3. Connect a 12 to 18 gauge wire (18 gauge is usuall
y
more than sufficient) from the +VT input (J1) to a
switched power source on the vehicle. A switched p
ower
source is a wire that is +12 VDC when the vehicle i
s on
and 0 VDC when the vehicle is off. Refer to your s
ervice
manual, local mechanic and/or internet forum to fin
d a
suitable switched source for your particular vehicl
e and
for the best procedure on tapping the wire. The sw
itched
source is used to energize the FZ-1's relay coil (a
bout
1A) which will cause the relay contacts to close an
d
supply +12VDC from the battery to the switched +12V

output bus.
4. Connect a 12 gauge wire between the GND input (J1
)
and the negative terminal of the battery.
5. Insert the proper amperage fuse, for your device,
into
either the switched or constant fuse position on on
e of
the 6 output circuits. Then connect the positive w
ire for
your device to that circuit's output terminal (J2/J
3
 

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Dave, I've not installed the Fuzeblock but have read good things about it and the Centech fuse block. I'd look at that one, too. You're right, the installation reads fairly thick, especially for an electrical rookie. Were I doing it, I'd take my time or take the stuff to a tech day at a local club meet-up. If you need it soon, I'd probably have your dealership install it. It's a job they likely do often.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bill, I used to do electronics as a hobby so it's not complete gibberish, but I think I'm going to look more at the Centech; it seems a lot more plug and play. Do you know offhand what R12 wire we are supposed to tap into to get the switched function of the Fuzeblock?
 

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Depends on where you want to install the fuse box. If toward the back of the bike, I'd use the switched wire on the tail light or on the diagnostic port -- it's the barrel-shaped connector with a twist-off cap that you plug a GS911 into for diagnostic readings, resetting service reminders, and other maintenance DIY work. You're looking for a green-and-blue or a green-and-white striped wire -- that's the switched one on my '09. Might be different on your camhead. You don't want to connect to a red wire (hot all the time) or brown (ground).

If you're installing toward the front, the parking light wire is switched, but it's more difficult to access. And, of course, there's the infamous GPS connector.

Have had good luck w/Posi-tap connectors. Customer Installation- Posi-Tap Instructions. Easy to use and fairly non-destructive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey drDave, just a thought... Have you considered a Power Distribution Module?
It does NOT have fuses & relay to fuss with.
PDM60 | Rowe Electronics

PDM60 Power Distribution Module (ROW-PDM60) - Nippy Normans
Just thought it may be an option for you.

"take the fooberator lead and eraculate it just under the whyseryster, taking care not to mancolulate the kwip-line. . ." :)
:funnypost::iagree:
That actually looks REALLY useful!. . .going to have to read up on it. Anybody have one or contemplating one? It probably doesn't even need a fooberator. . .. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So where does the ignition wire on the PDM60 go on the R12?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Depends on where you want to install the fuse box. If toward the back of the bike, I'd use the switched wire on the tail light or on the diagnostic port -- it's the barrel-shaped connector with a twist-off cap that you plug a GS911 into for diagnostic readings, resetting service reminders, and other maintenance DIY work. You're looking for a green-and-blue or a green-and-white striped wire -- that's the switched one on my '09. Might be different on your camhead. You don't want to connect to a red wire (hot all the time) or brown (ground).

If you're installing toward the front, the parking light wire is switched, but it's more difficult to access. And, of course, there's the infamous GPS connector.

Have had good luck w/Posi-tap connectors. Customer Installation- Posi-Tap Instructions. Easy to use and fairly non-destructive.
Awesome Web. Thanks! I think I'm going to spring for the fuseless box.

It's been said before but this listserve is an amazing resource; thanks to Web and everyone who contributes! :)
 

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I'm liking the Eastern Beaver PC-8. Anyone have any experience with it?
I have no experience with the PC-8, but did buy a single-circuit relay from EB a few years ago to run my heated liner. Had some satisfying email with Jim as well. I like his approach, and I like his stuff.
 
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