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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
I need to remove the gas tank on my 2011 R12R to have a dent removed and repainted. (A large metal trailer attachment fell on it in my garage :mad: !) I searched the forum and also google for information on R12R tank removal without much luck. Can anyone either give me some advice or a link to some advice on removing the tank? There is a youtube video on removing the tank on a R1150R. It looked a bit different than the R12R--it seemed to have a fairing/oil cooler attached to the tank. Any thoughts/ideas are appreciated.
Thanks.
Peter
 

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The OEM service DVD shows how to remove the tank with text and illustrations. The disc isn't cheap but pays for itself after your first DIY. It also shows you how to do all scheduled maintenance, torque values, part numbers, etc -- an owner's manual on steroids.

(Disc only works in Windows. Bleh.)
 

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Thanks guys--that's great. I just bought the Haynes Manual. The pictures link was great. Looks pretty straight forward. Now I have an excuse to ride a lot to drain my tank of gas before I remove it! :clap:
 

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It's not necessary to thread the two vent hoses out from the frame.

With the u-shaped plastic front cover removed (it has to come off anyway), you can see the two hoses' junction block just below the right (throttle) side front rubber mount. Pull the hoses off the front of the plastic junction block. Having done so, the upper portions stay with the tank, and the lower portions stay with the frame.

I found it useful to mark the hoses (a small circle of colored tape around the ends of one hose on both sides of the junction block), so each would be reconnected to its correct mate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. The Haynes manual was excellent and made the job easy. I love it when a plan comes together!
 

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I love it when a plan comes together!

This Forum is GREAT!!!
 

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Tank Removal

I bought the BMW manual, and it says to disconnect the fuel lines. I have had a look and found some non re-useable hose clamps, did anyone replace these with screw type hose clamps when putting the tank back on.

Are any special clamps or pliers required, to install a factory clamp back onto the fuel lines after refitting of the tank.

Also, does the tank need to be empty when performing this operation?

Thank you

Shishka
 

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I bought the BMW manual, and it says to disconnect the fuel lines. I have had a look and found some non re-useable hose clamps, did anyone replace these with screw type hose clamps when putting the tank back on.
You can use screw-type clamps, but make sure they're for fuel lines and have the "shield" portion which protects the line from the screw threads. Most posters don't use screw-type clamps, but use metal quick disconnects instead. They can be had from Beemer Boneyard: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects and others.

Are any special clamps or pliers required, to install a factory clamp back onto the fuel lines after refitting of the tank.
Oetiker clamps require a special tool to reinstall. For instance: Oetiker Clamp Pliers With Side Squeeze Knipex 1099i | eBay I prefer using metal quick disconnects, as the fuel lines can be removed and reinstalled without tools or supplies. Oetiker clamp removal is easy with the side-cutting pliers (you just clip them off), and either not too bad or awful (depending on your technique) if you're removing them with regular pliers and screwdrivers. Because removal cuts them, Oetiker clamp rings have to be replaced every time.

Also, does the tank need to be empty when performing this operation?
Doesn't matter, but it's a lot harder to lift and manipulate a full tank compared to an empty one! :)
 

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Hi Dbrick,

I've had a look on the beemerboneyard site, however there are a few different types' of quick connectors'. After having a look at the manual and my bike, it appears like I need two straight quick connectors'....the boneyard site shows the R1200R using a double t piece connector (TT). Could you advise of the correct part for the R1200R. I enquired with a local BMW shop, (not my dealer), and they want $220 for the kit, so will be ordering from beemerboneyard, even with the postage to Australia, I'm saving about $40.

Thanks heaps.

Shishka
New CPC Chrome Plated Brass Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Set For All R1200R Bikes
 

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Glad you figured it out.

When I installed them on my bike, I didn't replace the female fitting that screws into the fuel pump flange, reasoning that the flange wasn't leaking and disconnection of that QD connection (an act that stresses and can fracture the plastic QD) isn't required to pull the tank - the connection is between the fuel pump flange and the fuel filter, which stays in place (unless the filter is being replaced).

Thus, I bought this set of QDs that'd take care of only the other two fuel lines:

New CPC Chrome Plated BBcpcqkdiscR12GSM 1 91.95
Brass Fuel Line Quick
Disconnect Set For
R1200GS/M From 11/2006
Only (Except R1200GS/M
ADV)
 

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Having just had the tank off, I thought I'd post some photos of the bits to disconnect. I didn't take photos of the trim removal, I figured people could work that out on their own. It is basically just unscrewing the screws holding the 4 trim pieces and taking them off. If you can't manage that, then taking the tank off isn't for you ;)

I begin by disconnecting the connector for the fuel pump, it is located near the accessory plug on the left side of the bike.

Cut the cable ties holding the wiring to the frame


Then disconnect the wiring plug.



Next unplug the tank drain lines from under the front right part of the tank. They may be a bit tight but just pinch and roll (just like when you have an itchy testicle) and you will get them to come off.



Here they are disconnected, some people label them to plug in the same ports, but I don't think it is critical to do so.



Next you need to undo the bolt that holds the tank on the bike. It is located on the left side of the tank.



Just underneath the tank are the fuel line quick disconnects, the button to release them in on the tank side of the disconnect. Push the button when removing AND installing them to prevent damage to the o-ring. Be gentle with the plastic connectors as they are known to crack and leak if you are rough with them.

I didn't get a photo of them connected as I had to use both hands and one foot to hold the tank up and disconnect them. I like to put a tiny bit of moly grease on them to aid in putting them back together, the o-rings are Viton rubber so are petroleum resistant. I'll be replacing the disconnects with metal ones in the near future so I didn't bother replacing the o-rings with new ones.



Once that is done, you can safely lift the tank off and in a rearward direction to remove. I like to keep my tank on a bath towel I liberated from the house, it is pink and very ugly, it was not missed. YMMV.

To put the tank back on, seat the front of the tank on the big rubber grommets to the front of the bike (not pictured) it is very easy to locate them. Then follow the above instructions in reverse.
 
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fuel sensor electrical connector plug

stupid question... is it possible to reconnect the tank sensor electrical plug the wrong way round?
 

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I'd be very surprised if that were possible, 99.9% of plugs only fit one way and are usually locked or latched in place.
 

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I'd be very surprised if that were possible, 99.9% of plugs only fit one way and are usually locked or latched in place.
true... but usually there is a boss somewhere in the connector(s) that prevents it from being reconnected backward. this one has the locking tabs on both sides and everything inside and out is symmetrical.
 

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true... but usually there is a boss somewhere in the connector(s) that prevents it from being reconnected backward. this one has the locking tabs on both sides and everything inside and out is symmetrical.
Well, i plugged it back together and nothing blew up so i either lucked out or it doesn't matter... :smile2:
 
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