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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang, I don't know what the factory (or dealer) did with my stupid bike, but even though it looked fairly clean from a first glance, it has all kinds of muddy crap (and some rust) all over inside the bike, like if the factory rode it in a freaking mud trail for testing. Geez. And that includes the valve. My question is if I should spray it with something on top? And how about the bottom pivot point, inside the pipe? Not sure if WD40 or silicon spray would be good with the heat there, so rather ask the many experts here :). I already cleaned and polished the pipe, where the can will slide into.

Oh, and should I coat the inside of the Akra with something? The stock can had some kind of gray greasy crap (probably ani-seize) that was hard to remove from my fingers. Instructions don't say anything of that sort; only to install it, and torque the clamp to 16 ft/lbs. All comments welcome. Thank you.
 

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There shouldn’t be anything inside the welded link pipe in the OEM muffler or inside the exhaust pipe in
To the rear of the flapper. I cleaned the outside of the stock exhaust pipe with a rag, water, chrome cleaner, and some wd-40. It was pretty tight, unlike the SC link pipe. If the valve mechanism on top got crudded up, I would just clean them with water and protect them with wd-40 without getting water into the electrical connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay; thanks. So trusty WD40 it is. Is it anything that thing is not good for? Ha ha. So no spraying WD40 on the bushing inside the pipe, where the valve pivots at the bottom? Thx.

Will start cleaning and lubing the outside part, including the spring, while somebody answers my question above. Tried moving the valve by hand, but can't do that (as expected). On my MT-10, I could do it applying the same force I did to my bike, but maybe the servo motor is cabled differently. And not going to remove the cables, just for that.
 

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It’s hard to see how the inside of the exhaust gets corroded just because someone drove it in the rain. There is initial condensation inside when you start it up but this quickly evaporates. Isn’t riding through water and mud what the GS does all the time? Granted, the heat shield isn’t waterproof but you should be able to wash the exterior bits so long as the electrical connectors wind up clean and dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The inside is obviously not dirty, but just wanted to lube the bushing (if needed), now that I have access to it. The question is if I should spray WD40 in there or not, when it'd be exposed to exhaust gasses directly. Thank you.
 

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The grey goopy stuff was probably some form of sealant. If the pipe leaks at the joint, rtv high-temp liquid gasket can be used to help seal, just like any other slip-on. Note that the can comes off to allow for tire removal, so don't use anything that would make that too hard.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, thank you. Figured this bulky can has to come off for tire removal; it's too close to the wheel, just like the stock one.Just cleaned everything real well with WD40, wiped it off, and put the can on. No anti-seize, sealant, or anything else. It won't be needed with this can.

Hey, it's all done, except one step. I tightened the clamp to what should be more than enough, but my torque wrench still doesn't click, so it should be around 13-14 ft/lbs IMO. Should I leave it like that, or do you guys recommend tightening to 16 ft/lbs??? By the way, the handlebar bolts go to 16 ft/lbs too, and my torque wrench clicks exactly where the factory ones were before loosening (yes, I marked them to know), so I know it's calibrated. Thank you.
JC
 

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The stock can torques are 19 Nm for the hanger and 22 Nm for the clamp. Akrapovic recommends 22 and 22.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, I know. But did you use that much? Seems like a lot, especially for the hanger. I just did them by hand, but I'm below 16. Just don't see the need to torque them that hard (especially the hanger), but maybe there is. That's why I want to know what others did :). Wheels, axles, and other critical components, I always torque to specs.
 

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I use 19, 22 on the stock and 22, 22 Nm on the SC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay; thank you. Just torqued them to spec; better safe than sorry. And it's not that much. I wasn't that far off the top one. But the clamp needed several turns more to click, so I was way off on that one. Ha ha. All is done now, as I just finished installing the X-Head cover protectors; they're a fantastic product. Just need the H7 bulbs, the turn-signal LED boards, and handlebar OEM non-nav bolts; just cosmetic crap. The weather is supposed to turn to crap tomorrow, so we'll see when I can ride the bike again. And the new battery hasn't arrived at dealer. What I'm going to do is to put the Li-Ion emergency battery jumper on my tailbag, in case the stupid battery doesn't want to start the bike.
 

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That joint has a big honking pipe clamp on it. Unless you find a leak, I wouldn’t gunk it up. Permatex is pretty permanent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, I agree. I polished and cleaned both mating surfaces (with WD40), so there shouldn't be any issues. If it was the SC Project, which is not welded, would probably required that. Anyway, I'm a fair weather rider, so my bike won't see much rain anyway. The reason I didn't want to tighten the clamp that much is to make it easier to remove if needed (for tire removal). But when I saw I should be able to remove the wheel without removing the muffler (with the short Evotech tail tidy), I torqued it to spec. For some reason, it felt like a lot on the clamp. Ha ha.
 

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I’d be using some anti-seize paste on the joint. Carbon build-up can otherwise make the can harder to remove.

Don’t go using WD40 as a lubricant, except on household items. It will gum up. There should be no need to lubricate the exhaust valve pivots. If you wish to check its operation, remove the plastic cover and observe its back/forth calibration motion as you key on.
 

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I use copper antiseize although probably not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's probably a good idea to put a little bit, since the stock can had some. So will remove it, and reinstall after putting a super thin layer inside the Akra, so I don't make any mess on the bike. Hasn't started the bike yet. Oh, was disappointed to see what feels like Akrapovic tickers on the can, rather than being etched. For that freaking price, they should. Not sure what the heck they are, so will leave them along. Just hope they don't get messed up over time.

I don't really use WD40 as a lubricant, because it's not one. But I still use the word 'lube' when I shouldn't. Sorry. I didn't want to use any real lubricant, like silicon spray, due to the excessive heat. Used a little WD40 mostly as a dispersant, which shouldn't cause any issues. There wasn't any crap in there, so it wasn't really needed. Oh well. Cleaned everything well, including the butterfly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sure (see attached). Not much of a photo person myself, but got the pic yesterday, at the gas station, en route to the twisties in Cloudcroft, NM, to check out the bike :). Other than heavier than all other aftermarket units, the Akra is the best looking, and best sounding can, IMO. Sound is exactly what I was looking for: Louder than stock (so I could hear it with earplugs), but not obnoxiously so. Boxer twins are not particularly nice sounding IMO, but this can brings the best out of them IMO: sporty tone, yet refined, and muscular. So happy with the (expensive) purchase :).

Got the tires scrubbed yesterday, leaning to 43-deg on both sides a few times (after that photo). I didn't feel the bike had much left, but it supposedly can lean to 49-deg. I shortened the feelers, and raised the center stand a little (by cutting the bump stop 1/3rd), to have more cushion, since feelers always touch early without a passenger on the bike. Next time will attempt full lean, just to confirm I actually have that much cushion. Ha ha. I don't plan to do more than 45-deg on purpose, and leave the rest as cushion for the unexpected. Not sure the bike has 6 degrees more lean than what I was doing yesterday, but will find out soon. Ha ha. By the way, tires (Z8s) felt better than I expected, but since it was cold in the mountains (high 50s), and tires were new, I was taking it relatively easy. No hiccups, although DTC showed some (seamless) interventions. Bike was AWESOME!
 

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