Remove the battery cover and disconnect the earth, connect your ammeter (set to mAmp) between the negative lead and the battery earth.
Help me confirm I need a new battery?
I bought my 2017 R1200R a little over a year ago, and it had been meticulously maintained by the original owner. However, I don't know if (a) it still has the original battery, making it 6 years old, and (b) if the owner regularly used a battery tender (though he had installed a quick-connect battery charger cable connected directly to the battery, which seems to indicate that he used a charger).
Anyhow, I had it on a trickle charger all winter, the bike started beautifully earlier this spring, but now if I let it sit for a week or so, it won't start. After a two-hour recharge, it starts fine. Over the phone, my bike mechanic said the battery probably doesn't hold its charge anymore and most likely needs to be replaced.
But the reason I'm checking in with all you wonderful people is that the R has a lot of bells and whistles and blinking lights and alarms and keyless misbehavior, so I wonder if even a brand new battery might end up also being continuously discharged slowly.
Other than all the standard doodads that are using up power on the bike, I have two passive cables connected straight to the battery (the aforementioned recharge quick connect cable, and a usb charger cable I routed to the handlebar area to plug in my phone if ever). Both of these are just cables, no switches, no led lights, nothing... but could they trick the ecu into flicking on and off all the time to check something or other, and therefore discharging the battery?
The other thing I just remembered is there is a red blinking light on the display panel (alarm system enabled?)... Is that supposed to be blinking all the time, and does it explain a discharging battery?
If I can rule out these two remote possibilities, then I can just go ahead and get a new battery.
Huge thanks in advance for any guidance!
Anyhow, I had it on a trickle charger all winter, the bike started beautifully earlier this spring, but now if I let it sit for a week or so, it won't start. After a two-hour recharge, it starts fine. Over the phone, my bike mechanic said the battery probably doesn't hold its charge anymore and most likely needs to be replaced.
But the reason I'm checking in with all you wonderful people is that the R has a lot of bells and whistles and blinking lights and alarms and keyless misbehavior, so I wonder if even a brand new battery might end up also being continuously discharged slowly.
Other than all the standard doodads that are using up power on the bike, I have two passive cables connected straight to the battery (the aforementioned recharge quick connect cable, and a usb charger cable I routed to the handlebar area to plug in my phone if ever). Both of these are just cables, no switches, no led lights, nothing... but could they trick the ecu into flicking on and off all the time to check something or other, and therefore discharging the battery?
The other thing I just remembered is there is a red blinking light on the display panel (alarm system enabled?)... Is that supposed to be blinking all the time, and does it explain a discharging battery?
If I can rule out these two remote possibilities, then I can just go ahead and get a new battery.
Huge thanks in advance for any guidance!
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My preferable method of connecting a USB charger is directly to battery (fused!), so it cannot mess with the electronics or CANbus.Now the remaining question / mystery is: do I remove that usb socket to avoid any suspected battery drain in the future... I'll ponder that for a bit.
To prevent permanent drain I would place a simple push button in between, so you can manually disconnect the charger easily.
This way you also make it possible to charge your headset (or whatever) while having coffee underway.
Ideal in my opinion is a charger like this:
It has a switch built-in
(the grey-ish mount was 3d-printed)
The Quadlock Smart Adapter has a USB-A socket and will switch off automatically once battery voltage goes below 12.7V, so no issues if connected straight to the battery.
That's clever and should be obligatory on all chargers, also mains adapters...The Quadlock Smart Adapter has a USB-A socket and will switch off automatically once battery voltage goes below 12.7V, so no issues if connected straight to the battery.
Oh that's cool. I wonder if this is a mechanical on-off switch (one that really switches off the entire circuit)? I'm also a little baffled that the picture shows it in use with 22.3V??This switched USB plugs into the Battery Tender lead that most of us probably have. $15 US at Amazon and other places. View attachment 119815
It is a total off switch, I think. I had one until I loaned it to a friend, seems like was a shut-off switch. As for the 22.3, no idea but it works fine on my friend's R1100R.
It shows battery voltage and is designed for 12 and 24 volt systems (the latter, trucks, I presume). I expect the voltage display when not connected is for illustrative purposes only.
The only concern I see is that if it’s a hard on/off with no voltage dependent auto off, the unit needs to be in an easily accessible/visible location, which may not suit aesthetics.
The only concern I see is that if it’s a hard on/off with no voltage dependent auto off, the unit needs to be in an easily accessible/visible location, which may not suit aesthetics.
Not really necessary on mains adapters I’d think - the voltage is either there or not.That's clever and should be obligatory on all chargers, also mains adapters...
Yeah but the keep leaking energy.Not really necessary on mains adapters I’d think - the voltage is either there or not.
They are campaigning to take the charger out of the mains, but what they should be campaigning is an auto off switch in these chargers... They should not leak energy with nothing connected.
I have a car battery tester as used by most auto shops. This can check if the battery is not holding charge. If you have friendly mechanic he can check in 5 mins.
And many auto shops will “load test” a battery you bring in…even motorcycle batteries.
As the owner of a 2015 that showed similar systems then chewed through about 5 batteries, I feel fairly confident in this response... Don't just get the battery changed, get the system checked by BMW for any earth leaks. My issue turned out to be an £800 control module that had failed somehow. Not sure the details. Just be careful buying a new battery hoping it will fix everything!
True, but it sounds like it's worthwhile to try the battery before you spent 800 bucks on a "control module" most mechanics don't know what it does anyway.Just be careful buying a new battery hoping it will fix everything!
They would need to REALLY convince me that it's broke before I would have them do that.
I completely understad your point. Hence how I wnet through 5 batteries to understand there was a much bigger issue!True, but it sounds like it's worthwhile to try the battery before you spent 800 bucks on a "control module" most mechanics don't know what it does anyway.
They would need to REALLY convince me that it's broke before I would have them do that.
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