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Lovely - thanks!
 
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Interesting stuff, and I think it has a lot to do with cornering style. I started road racing in the late 60's and still use Dave Minton's "body always in line with the bike, shoulder into corner, knees tucked in tight" style that I learnt back then. I used Dunlop Roadsmarts on all my bike bikes (including the R) for years until changing over to Avon Trailriders last year, and the "chicken strip" was always around 5mm on the rear, and except for occasionally hitting bumps on the road surface in corners I haven't scraped a peg since I was in my 20's. I've been following right behind mates on fast rides and have seen showers of sparks coming from their bikes but I was never even close to scraping mine.
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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I stumbled on this image, which should give an idea of how much clearance remains once the footpegs start to scrape - a reasonable amount by the look. The RS has the same footpeg to engine relationship as the Roadster.
 

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As you probably know, what drags first, and at which lean angle, depends on the weight on the bike. Therefore, a light solo rider should have more lean angle than a heavier rider, and even more than somebody with a pillion (or heavy luggage). Anyway, the only reference I have on our 1250Rs was a video of a German dude (which I couldn't find for you) with a GoPro behind the pegs, scraping at 49-deg of lean (on the left side). No idea of the size of the guy, nor his settings (I was curious about his suspension and preload settings). His center stand was about to drag, and the head was a safe distance away, probably 1-1/2", in my estimation. With the X-Head covers I have, I lost about 1/2", but I'm almost sure other hard parts would touch first. At any rate, what I did to maximize cornering clearance was to replace the center stand rubber stop for a shorter one, and replaced the peg feelers with grub screws and acorn nuts, taking a few millimeters off the originals. In my case, I don't know what would drag first (although I'd like to know -ha ha), but I estimate I should have about 50-deg of lean with those changes, and the fact I'm a relatively light rider at 162# (no gear). I've always freaked out when dragging pegs, for some reason (no different than hard parts), so I always try to avoid that. The great news on the R is we have a lean angle meter, and that video as reference, so about 49-degs of lean angle. By feel alone, my guess was the bike would drag at like 43-deg, since I felt I was about to scrape everything close to that. Ha ha. So got it to 45, but that will probably be my limit for now (which is plenty, to be honest), to leave the extra 5 as a safety cushion for the unexpected, including a bumpy curve. At least until I spend more time on the bike, as I only have 647 miles on my HP at the moment. And want to wait for better tires than the Z8s too. Hope this helps.
 

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My concern is that most of my riding is done scratching in the mountains with a mate of mine & i am thinking about the possibilty of the heads touching down if the bike is close to maximum lean as i hit a hollow in the road, because this scenario happens quite often while we are riding...Worrying about hitting the heads on the tarmac is not really something i want to be thinking about if i am pushing hard, lol...
 

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The only documented instance of a head touching down was done by someone one this forum, on a racetrack, with race tires, raised pegs, and choosing between the hairpin corner or an off track excursion after following a 400cc track bike...

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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With Machine Art Moto head protectors the valve covers would be protected and it would be a cushioned touch less likely to unbalance the bike.

There was a dip on a particular left-hander in the Adelaide Hills that would always graunch the header pipe on my SS 900. Ended up with a ground flat spot on the pipe - part abrasion and part ‘panel beating’.
 

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I'd definitely install shorter peg feelers, like I did, so they touch first before anything else. But for sure the center stand would touch before the heads, so no worries there. And yes, that'd be the case even with the X-head MAM covers, which I highly recommend too.

Hey, if you're going to be the guinea pig on lean angle, please post at which angle your bike touches left and right, and also with which changes (peg feelers, center stand stop -or without-, etc), and your weight with no gear, if you don't mind (it's important). Remember the max lean angles stay recorded until you turn off the bike, so no need to watch them in real time. Thank you :). I'd be pleased with 50, but curious how much the fat lady has in her. Ha ha. Take care, and be careful.
 

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Handy that it records the lean angle...I will probably just remove the centre stand & if i am trying hard enough there should not be any reason to replace the peg feelers when i can just grind them down on the road, lol...I have to buy a bike 1st you know.. 😃
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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Handy that it records the lean angle...
Only the 1250 has that function, not the 1200. With a 1200 you’d need to use a phone app (of potentially dubious accuracy). The GS911 may have it as a real time value parameter that can be recorded (provided you have the IMU associated with Ride Modes Pro/Cornering ABS).
 
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Have an update on this, for those interested. Took the bike out yesterday for a 320-mile ride involving some awesome twisties, after almost 6 months of not riding it. All the changes I made worked perfectly, and probably won't mess with the sport handlebar, at least for now. Anyway, got the bike to 47-deg on both sides, but the right one touched. As always, I freaking out for a moment, especially since my boot bounced off the peg. The center-stand touched too, so I can report my experiment of fitting acorn nuts (with grub screws) instead of the much longer stock feelers worked perfectly. The center stand shouldn't touch if you touch with the pegs lightly, but it'd be right behind (it touched when the peg pivoted up). And yes, I already replaced the acorn nut (pack had 3), and sanded and touched-up the center stand :). I think that curve was off-camber, hence touching early, so my guess is I should have the 50-deg I calculated. This mountain has no guard rails, so didn't want to confirm that suspicion. Ha ha. And I probably won't, since I don't want to touch again. Oh, and I wouldn't remove the center stand since I bet the expensive Akra was right behind. Plus my 'calibrated' limit of 45-deg, is already stupid quick for the streets, to be honest. Caught up with the few cars I passed like if they were stopped, and I wasn't even pushing on the straights at all (just maintaining pace, like I always do, to enjoy the scenery). And they were completely out of view after a few turns. And at that lean angle, there's still plenty of safety cushion. Caught gravel, deer, bulls, and that dragging, with no issues. Got 44 to 45-degs max the rest of the way, with a very nice rhythm, and had a lot of fun. And zero ergo issues on the entire trip. I was getting a bit of numbness on my hands before, and a bit of knee fatigue, but all of that was COMPLETELY gone with the rear wheel balance job. Didn't even have to use cruise control in 320 miles. Oh, and did 165 miles with 65 left, so an incredible range too (230 miles). On my MT-10, I couldn't do the 2nd twisty part (35 miles), and arrived at the gas station in deep reserve with 130 miles (and no pushing hard). Had 65 miles left with this bike. Awesome :). A full-on sportbike might be more fun in the twisties, but I'd be done after that. Ha ha. Plus I wouldn't be able to do the 2nd twisty part either. Best bike I've owned overall for my kind of riding. And with no screen, feels fast, without having to go that fast. No issues at 85, and it was windy. I'm done with the bike now. I have the sport handlebar, but not going to bother with it, as it might fatigue me more in multi 300-mile days, and bike felt great in the twisties as is. Hope this helps gang.
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