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2020 R1250R HP 2018 Triumph T120
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking at past posts re: installation of LED headlamps. I did see one member was successful in adding aux lights to his new LED headlamp load in order to fool the bike's electronic quirks when modifying. The main quirk is when replacing the stock halogen(s) with an LED, the drop in current/amps/watts is too much. The bike is looking for 55W in either high or low beam. So in this case I used 20W LEDs. I figured I needed to add 35W or so to the load. This is to prevent the TFT error "low or high beam' faults.

I found these LEDs that are the same dimensions as the stock lamps. The kicker is they're only 20W each @ 2000LM per lamp. Similar to stock. I decided to give it a go because I like LED lights better than halogen. I also wanted to see if I could "make" them both work. Sort of a challenge.

Amazon.com: LASFIT Wireless H7 LED Bulbs 6000k White Mini Size All-in-One Conversion Kit, Fanless Replacement Bulb, Pack of 2: Automotive

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They fit without any issue into the stock lamp holders...

111982


I added my already installed Denali aux LEDs to the low beam circuit. The added 20 watts (10W each) of the Denali's was enough to prevent the error/fault. So the bike was happy with appox 40W....

I couldn't add the Denali LEDs to the high beam circuit because of the low/high beam both "on" at the same time feature. I'd surely blow something up that way, so I decided to add resistors for now. The other possible option would be a relay but not sure how yet. I installed two resistors inside the headlight that totaled 21W load. This was enough to eliminate the error/fault as expected. When testing them out, they get very, very hot within a few minutes. I will admit that I don't think this is the greatest location for the resistors. I don't really even ride at night, so the high beam hasn't even been used. TBH... I just figured out today how to turn the high beam on..lol. :rolleyes:


111983


Thanks for making it this far !!

I've obviously left out a lot of details. Be happy to help if needed. It does all work without errors.

111984
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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How’s the low beam cutoff pattern compared with the stock bulb, @tima?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did see these lamps and wondered myself how they'd work with my modded setup. I did not see what the wattage is. The ad says "Each led headlight bulb can light up to 13000 lumens". That isn't definite enough for me to tell. So without the wattage or amperage specifications I cannot say if they'd work or not. If you find this info post it up. It looks like they will fit for sure.

I'm going to guess they would not work, at least not without the errors. You'd probably need to do something like what I did.

So if you try them and they don't work, and if you can't do the mods I did, I'd take them off you for cheap... :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I decided to modify my original mod and relocate the resistors I used in the high beam circuit. I'll share how I wired this up and you can decide if it's something you can do too. If nothing else it'll show what I've learned so far and might be beneficial to someone.

This shows how I originally wired up the resistors. The resistors in this case are providing the extra load (watts) in order to make up the wattage deficit caused by using the LEDs. The Denali DRLs are taking the place of the resistors in the case of the low beam circuit. In this pic, the white and brown wires are the incoming factory wires that feed the high beam circuit. White is positive (+) and brown is negative (-). The resistors I used came with the Rizoma turn signals I had. Their instructions provided how to wire them for different loads. I used the 21 watt config.


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Working from front to rear, this shows how and where I tapped the low and high beams positive (+) feeds to the headlight. This was done to avoid drilling a hole into the headlight. The yellow wire is the + feed for the low beam. The white is the + for the high beam. The two brown wires are the - ones.
The yellow feed wire to the HL (electrical flow is from left to right in pic) was tapped (red wire) and run back through the bike's factory 'trough' (conduit) to feed the Denali DRLs.
I tapped the white feed wire to the HL at the same time for future use 'just in case'.

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Steering head area buttoned back up..

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This shows how I went about reconnecting up the relocated resistors for the high beam. The white wire soldered connection feeds the resistors in their new location, goes through them and comes back through the white clip back into the HL. This is known as wired in 'series'. You can see in the very 1st pic of the HL above, that this is wired in the same way. But now they're relocated outside of the HL instead.

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This is for reference on how the relocated resistors were wired. The red clip is hooked to the incoming white + feed from the steering head area tap (white wire laying on battery), goes through the resistors, then back to the high beam socket via the steering head area connection. The black jumper goes straight to the battery - post.

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Where they finally ended up.

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Last one to show how hot the resistors get using my gal's meat thermometer.

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Has your brain seized up a little? I know mine has...

I know this is far from plug n play. I wasn't an electrician by trade, more of a jack-of-all-trades type. It's the best I could come up with in order to make LED lamps work in the HL...
 

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Wow, yep, the top of my head just blew off! They do get hot. Definitely best to get them out of the headlamp case. I'm going to have to cipher on this one a bit. Thank you for the detailed instructions, very kind of you. I had a Kawasaki concours 1400 before I got my r12r, they make some very nice and easy to install plug n play LEDs for it. Along with a ton of other accessories. I am a bit disappointed in the lack of same for the R1200R. Thanks again!
 

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If the wiring pics look scary to you, Motodemic sells a complete headlamp that's plug'n'play swap out of the stocker. Fits right into the bucket of my camhead bike. Don't know if they make them for the newer R's. I love mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't think Motodemic makes one for the R..

It made me realize I have a J W Speaker LED on my T120. The cut off line on the low beam is nice and crisp. I thought the 1 : 1 design of my new LED lamp would work ok in the R. I've done some reading and it doesn't reflect the same as a halogen because the halogen light is emitted from a cylindrical shape, and mine emits from 2 flat sides. Not quite the same I'm afraid. So I was able to get these to work sans errors, but the light emitted isn't the best, according to my T120's vs 1250R cut-off line shots. I don't ride at night so it isn't a huge deal. It obviously will matter to some...

My T120 low beam for comparison to my modded low beam,

112093
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I can understand that comment. I have the same issue with quantum physics.... :) just kidding.

As in anything, the more you do something the better you become at it. My intent was to show what was involved for anyone else thinking of adding LED headlamps...

I haven't given up on this little project yet. I want to see if I can improve the light pattern first, then hopefully someone will come up with a more powerful LED lamp that'll fit, along with having a better pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I started thinking why not just tape up the lense and see what that does...

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we'll see how it looks when it's dark out...
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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why not just tape up the lense and see what that does...
My f800ST manual actually had guidance on taping up the lens to accommodate riding on the opposite side of the road. I recall that it was expected that vinyl sheeting would be cut to shape.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
FYI --- this is the article I read.. Why Most LED Headlight Upgrades Don't Really Work: An Expert Explains (gizmodo.com.au)

Apparently trying to improve the cut-off is fruitless when trying to improve the pattern. The bottom line, replacing the stock halogen lamp with any LED will invariably produce a lesser quality light. So if that is more important to you than any benefit a LED might provide, I'd say stay with stock lamps.

My tape test wasn't that conclusive. It may have produced a little less light above the cut-off. For my purposes I think I'll leave the LEDs installed.

Pic with the tape job... the area below the line is obviously what really matters for a better light system. A LED projecting in a halogen designed fixture just doesn't work as efficiently. At least not yet.

I have a little saying that goes something like, " good marketing can trump the truth sometimes"......I fell for the marketing.

112115
 

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I understand. But if they made some LED'S specifically for this brand bike it would most definitely be a vast improvement. As was the case for my former bike, a Kawasaki Concours 1400. Aftermarket plug n play LED'S were far and above brighter and cast more visable light than OEM. So as it is. H7's for me😎.
 

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Beatrix - 2020 BMW R1250R Exclusive in Pollux Metallic Matte
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I applaud your efforts, but the wiring... one positive is that you soldered these connections (I hope).

I experimented with my previous bike, which also came with a halogen bulb w/ reflector, and came to a conclusion that a quality set of aftermarket auxiliary lights is more effective than any MacGyver gizmos that are generally available on the market.
Last but not least: should there be a problem, troubleshooting by anyone except you will be a pain in their behind, back, neck and all the other body parts.
 

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That's a popular solution to better lighting ahead and I've used LED aux lights on other bikes. I also read about LED bulbs not giving good results due to issues with reflectivity of the bucket.
A couple downsides of aux lights. They may become victims of constant vibration/inadequate mounting/mount fatigue. This happened to me. Heard a banging around on a visit to Newfoundland and found one of my aux lights hanging down below the fork.:cautious:
On my newest acquisition, a R12R classic, I wanted to keep the bike "clean" looking and sprung for a Motodemic LED headlight. Spendy but completely plug and play and I'm very happy with the light projection. I had some initial issues with the light (defective canbus) but the company was prompt in all communications and sent out a replacement immediately. Happy camper here.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I applaud your efforts, but the wiring... one positive is that you soldered these connections (I hope).
Last but not least: should there be a problem, troubleshooting by anyone except you will be a pain in their behind, back, neck and all the other body parts.
I only wanted to share how I went about it. I didn't ask to be graded on how I wired it. BTW...I believe a solid crimp is as good as a soldered one. Just me.

I personally don't save my bikes for the possible next owner. Just me I suppose.......

Edit: "If you ever get to adding a resistor, please document (photos) and share your experience. Thanks! "
I came across this in the other thread and quoted you. So maybe you can help me understand what is wrong with my wiring? What would you do differently? I like to learn new things, so please enlighten me!
 

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Beatrix - 2020 BMW R1250R Exclusive in Pollux Metallic Matte
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I only wanted to share how I went about it. I didn't ask to be graded on how I wired it. BTW...I believe a solid crimp is as good as a soldered one. Just me.

I personally don't save my bikes for the possible next owner. Just me I suppose.......
Nobody's grading, at least not me :) That said, when you post something on a forum of likeminded riders, expect some opinions to be thrown around. I'm in the camp that if it looks good, it usually works good as well, but it is just me.

BTW... I used all possible connection types on my previous bike (crimp, solder, posi-tap, heat-shrink no solder or crimp, etc.) and found that all of them held-up over 3 years, however for longevity and potentially to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals when moisture eventually makes its way to a wire splice, it is best practice to solder.

I just started stripped-down my previous bike to remove all the extra bling that the next owner won't care about, and had to pause a few times to figure out what I did where, and hope that it all works after I finish taking it apart. So the proverbial "next guy" might be you, just in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, so your opinion of the wiring was, "I applaud your efforts, but the wiring". That to me means you did not like/approve of my methods. So I am asking you, what in your opinion don't you like and what would you do to change it to "your" way? Not trying to argue, just trying to see where you're coming from? I can take it...
 
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