There is no problem at all! I hope that I am not posting inappropriately by adding to this thread? I'm enjoying the conversation with everyone and having a lot of fun. It's my own damn fault I melted things a bit I am having a lot of fun contributing to the knowledge base, or rather, I hope it's contributing. My goal is to further your efforts and try to create a plug and play type solution with things that exist on the market. I may fail, but I will rule out lots of thing! 🤣Fr000m, please, please do not take this offensively.
The reason I started this thread was to show how I made LED lamps in the headlight work without any TFT errors. I tried to be specific while describing what I did. I also mentioned how hot the resistors get after being energized for a few minutes. That said, I'm sorry for the issues you've had. Hopefully you can get these to work as you want.
If you look at the headlight housing, you'll notice cooling fins on the back/side: I believe these are mostly for DRL LED heat dissipation. LEDs bulbs die mostly because microelectronic components driving the LED chips die, either because they are bad quality, or due to overheating. By introducing up to additional 70 watts of heat into the housing, you might just shorten the lifespan of the DRL. In any case, these Philips resistors look like a nice option for those who don't want to cut and splice wires.The bulbs I have are 20 each, meaning these need to absorb the other 35. The reviews from other folks have indicated they get hot, but not melty hot, more like a level where you can touch it but you don't really want to, which is far under the melting point for ABS and such. IF they do stay that cool, I will tuck them into the headlight assembly. They are actually quite small. See below. Of course, they may not work, but I like a challenge and I am LOVING this bike. So I will win eventually >=D
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On the way home I was thinking about this setup, using Philips CANBUS adapter… a few things come to mind that I would check before fully committing to this solution:Yep, the superbrightleds BAU15S were too long. I was off on my math a bit. G
onna try something else XDGonna just get the dynamic motorrad ones, since the cost is nice for lifetime warranty.
Also, an update: The Philips adapters work, or at least seem to. I left one on for a solid 5+ minutes, and it got hot, but I could still hold it, and had no canbus error. Right now, I'm looking at the bike and thinking of where I could mount them, and just route the cables into the headlight assembly through grommeted holes (I have grommets). The main steering or fork post thingy seems like a good place, since they are small enough to allow the forks/handlebars to fully pivot either way, and it would allow them to stay external where they can shed heat. Unfortunately, they are just a smidge too big to mount to the back of the headlight cover, which was my initial plan. Will update when I get this sorted, probably Friday. Time for ye olde zip ties. Will post pics.
Good luck, and please keep us posted! This is about the least intrusive method of installation I've seen so far (least damage to OEM wiring) and replacing a headlight back panel is relatively inexpensive and easy if you decide this didn't work-out (BMW part 63 12 8 549 265).Hello all. Pictures will be coming, but I can confirm 100% the Philips resistor packs work with the bike on and off. I've decided I will attach them with a stainless metal pipe clamp to the stem, behind the headlight housing. It's not easily visible, is a safe place for heat buildup and cannot damage anything around it, will get good airflow for cooling, and doesn't obstruct any portion of the steering or suspension. Right now I am just working out how I want to bring all 4 leads into the headlight housing. The beam pattern using lasfit bulbs is very good and a dead on match for OEM. I wouldn't call the output massively increased - perhaps 40%, but I'll do another night ride once I get it all sorted out, and compare. Apart for modifying the rear panel of the headlight housing (some grinding down the honeycomb pattern, and holes of course), this leaves everything else intact/factory.
I lack the equipment to properly measure what the Philips pack is doing, but from what I can tell from digging around online, it's got a basic circuit board that detects the PWM signal used by CANBUS and adapts the resistance to meet the expected or measured load. I don't know what the overhead is, but with 20w bulbs, I feel pretty safe. I may even try a higher wattage down the road, just to see if I can further improve output (but maintain the proper beam pattern still)
I was curious were you found it... just be aware this ships from Latvia, and will take several weeks. I ordered something in the past from this seller (Oem245), and it arrived in 3.5 weeks.THANK you! I feel a lot better proceeding with a PN. Found them on fleabay for 35 bucks. Appreciate it!
When you have a chance, please post photos of the lite cut-off: very curious to see how it looks with LED.Ok, I have finished with the headlight. Caveat: I haven't done a night ride yet with LED to compare to halogen.
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The first thing I did was make 2 holes in the rear cover. I did some dremel grinding to get rid of honeycomb both front and back to accommodate this. In the two pictures above, you can see I've shown with a grommet in place as well, front and back. These grommets have a gap between front and back that seats on the headlight casing. Like this: ||||||___||||||. The underscores show the inner part. These are what I used: GROMMETS.
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Next, I routed the cables into the grommets. I did have to stretch the grommets a bit to get the cables in, so they cracked a bit. Hence the gratuitous silicone as a secondary seal. I also did a ziptie inside and outside to join the two and act as a sort of cable stop. The idea here will be to mount the canbus packs, then attach the back cover as the headlight is put into position. Also this is an ideal time to plug everything in and do a final test for proper function. I had one resistor pack flipped around on the bulb end. 2 second fix by flipping the connector (polarity).
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Here is the view looking in towards the bike's stem, from the front, with headlight assembly removed. You can see the two canbus packs tip tied into place (turns out the pipe clamp I got was way too big, didn't have enough slots to tighten properly. Highly recommend a stainless pipe clamp instead of zip ties). You can see I also put some strain relief ties onto the two sets of headlight cables. I chose this location becuase there is no hindrance to functionality -no wires are blocked, the suspension and turning travel is unhindered, etc.
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Final pic. Everything looks and feels OEM, with the exception of more light. Again, I cannot quantify the improvement yet. I do think an HID would do far better in a similar fashion, and although I am extremely picky about proper beam pattern and not blinding people, I do think this particular reflector assembly does well with non-halogen bulbs. The cutoff is sharp and proper. So, I may try it down the road. In fact, I am sure I will try other things, since new back plates are cheap and I like to fiddle.
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Also, for anyone that wants it, this is how you connect the headlight connections internally. Detatch the OEM power connector from the metal retaining clip