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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All. Just been out for a ride and thought I'd try out the cruise control for the first time since I've had the bike. After a bit of wiggling, it came on but then turned straight off. Also off with it went every button on the LH switchgear! No indicators, horn, etc, not one button worked. The bike still ran ok, and I could change modes on the RH switchgear. The TFT was on and functioning, but could not be altered from the initial start screen. Stopped the bike, turned it off and on......the same condition. Just before I got home, I turned it off and on again, and everything worked ok. I did notice some oily-looking substance seemingly oozing from out of the (mainly) cruise button and a couple of others. All the connections look fine.

I did clean the bike about two weeks ago and always tend to spray some 'back to black' on the black plastics, including the switchgear. I've done this to all my bikes, but maybe I squirted a bit too much? I would have thought this might have dried away by now though, but maybe it's seeped in through the gaps, and somehow shorting out in there? I'd like to separate the switchgear and have a peek in there....anyone know how?.... It's not an easy matter by the looks. Otherwise.....not sure if the encasing with rice may help!!

It's still under warranty, but I'm off to the Dolomites in two weeks and worried that a dealer may keep it in!
 

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One of my first diagnostic questions for myself when looking at a problem is "What did I last do/work on?" It sounds to me like you might have found it. Absolutely no guarantees here, but if it were me, I would think about dribbling/spraying some isopropyl alcohol in there to clean it up. Also if it were me, I'd wait until Panzermann weighed in on this!
BTW, obviously, spraying that plastic renewal stuff around isn't a good idea. I use something similar, but I spray it on a cloth and wipe it on sparingly.
 
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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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I think it unlikely your plastic dressing has caused the issue as BMW uses sealed micro switches (presumably IP67), although I’d follow Tom’s advice and apply it first to a microfibre cloth.
If you are losing all functions in the LH switchblock, I’d be checking the small connector where the lead plugs in. There have been cases where it’s not fully seated in the factory.
You’re unlikely to benefit from trying to disassemble the switchblock. It’s microprocessor based and communicates, via LINBUS I think, with the instrument panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi all. Thanks for the advice, it is appreciated. Checked all the connectors, I gave it a few short hits with the isopropyl alcohol, let that rest awhile, then a short blast with the heat gun just in case there was anything that needed drying up. Went out to test ride and it all seemed ok..... all the buttons working. One thing I didn't do was to test the cruise control. I was worried that if I did, it might cause the condition again! I will have to though, maybe tomorrow.
One thing, stationary, with the engine off, but ignition on, when you click the cruise button, should it still indicate 'on' at a standstill, because mine doesn't. Should it only indicate on when the bike is moving?
 

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Whether this is right or wrong, and I’ve always done it on my push bikes and ebikes, after washing them, I spray GT85 around the obvious bits, and carried on doing this on my motorbikes, switchgear and all. It’s also pretty good for the paintwork too…..plus it gives a lovely aroma to the garage😎
 

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Hi All. Just been out for a ride and thought I'd try out the cruise control for the first time since I've had the bike. After a bit of wiggling, it came on but then turned straight off. Also off with it went every button on the LH switchgear! No indicators, horn, etc, not one button worked. The bike still ran ok, and I could change modes on the RH switchgear. The TFT was on and functioning, but could not be altered from the initial start screen. Stopped the bike, turned it off and on......the same condition. Just before I got home, I turned it off and on again, and everything worked ok. I did notice some oily-looking substance seemingly oozing from out of the (mainly) cruise button and a couple of others. All the connections look fine.

I did clean the bike about two weeks ago and always tend to spray some 'back to black' on the black plastics, including the switchgear. I've done this to all my bikes, but maybe I squirted a bit too much? I would have thought this might have dried away by now though, but maybe it's seeped in through the gaps, and somehow shorting out in there? I'd like to separate the switchgear and have a peek in there....anyone know how?.... It's not an easy matter by the looks. Otherwise.....not sure if the encasing with rice may help!!

It's still under warranty, but I'm off to the Dolomites in two weeks and worried that a dealer may keep it in!
Hi there. Mine also packed it in earlier this year. To my surprise, BMW Australia agreed to replace it with my dealer. They wanted to see my service history which is all good and mostly with BMW motorcycle dealers and BAM! All good.
 

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Mark – Moderator 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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Hi there. Mine also packed it in earlier this year. To my surprise, BMW Australia agreed to replace it with my dealer. They wanted to see my service history which is all good and mostly with BMW motorcycle dealers and BAM! All good.
Not that your service history is really relevant to the failure as it isn't a service item, but they'll ask for it anyway. Perhaps they see it as an indicator that the bike has been looked after - if no history, they could argue that it's user abuse.

When my rear Cardan joint failed in Tassie, years out of warranty, I made a 'consumer guarantee' claim on the basis that it isn't a service item and should therefore be expected to last the effective life of the bike. I didn't have my records with me, as I have done all servicing myself, but promised I could send it when I arrived home - which I did (I keep detailed service and maintenance records using the BMW standard service sheets). They trusted me and replaced the shaft free of charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi all, just to let you know, as per Panzermans suggestion to ensure the small connector where the lead plugs into the switchgear was fully seated, I gave that a good push, and voila, everything started working again! It looked perfectly fine but I felt the lead click home after a push. Have just come home from a ten-day trip to the Dolomites, sometimes in torrential rain, and the bike and switchgear ran perfectly 👍
 
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