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· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Moved to this sub-forum In the hope it is a better fit for this question -
I am planning to buy the following jack for easier/less back-breaking and more simplified way to work on the motorcycle,
And I am completely clueless when it comes to this aspect - e.g. if the type of the jack I am about to buy is stupidly dangerous/high chance of falling/whatever,
And so as always - any shared experience/tips/advice would be much appreciated

LARIN ATVJ-3 ATV/Motorcycle Jack
Font Parallel Auto part Event Triangle




p.s. while reading on the subject also found this very useful information about this type of jack/lift:
TL;DR version of the following video is that the load/motorcycle should not exceed rated-load / 2.5,
E.g. if jack/lift is rated up to 1500lbs load, then motorcycle/load should not exceed 600lbs (1500lbs / 2.5)
 

· Mark – Super Moderator
2015 R1200R Exclusive
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8,324 Posts
Without a screw-on plate affixed to the engine, I don’t reckon you’d find suitable jacking surfaces on the Roadster.
A platform lift on which you can jack the bike on its front wheel and centre stand is likely the only stable option in my view.
 

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1,077 Posts
I’ve always managed with a floor jack and center stand. Maybe if I was trying to dismount the engine from the frame I’d want something more specialized.
 

· Retired In Beautiful Tennessee
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I just popped for this Harbor Freight aluminum motorcycle lift mainly to make dual sport chain maintenance easier but also for other things. It popped the little 320 pound Honda right up on it's skid plate quickly & stably. Before actually working on the bike I would secure it to the stand with a couple straps.

However, as Panzer said the R isn't as suitable for jacking as-is, the oil pan cooling fins and cat hang below the frame and make lifting more sketchy. I may add a GS skid plate at some point to allow jacking and protect the engine, or invest in a platform lift like this Harbor Freight motorcycle lift to make maintenance easier down the road.

Good video above.

HTH, Dave
 

· Mark – Super Moderator
2015 R1200R Exclusive
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There’s some interesting observations on this GS forum

Of note, some have suggested the stock skid plate is not sturdy enough for lifting the whole bike, and I’d agree. An intermediary plate that sits against and temporarily bolts to the skid plate screw points would make a lift like you propose (and the aluminium one @dbyker references) workable. Its design would need to be such that it can’t slide/move/lift off the lift’s rails though.
 

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321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I think the objective is to raise the bike to avoid having to bend so much for maintenance.
Indeed, few days ago relocated my aux. lights connection to power from the OEM-aux.connector (LHS) to the low-beam wiring (RHS),
And - as I knew it would be - kneeling for long periods as I have struggled to Houdini the aux.-lights wires/harness through the jam packed/condensed center area above the cylinders (w/ all fairings on) has once again made me wish I could have done all that standing up comfortably;
And - as @dbyker has pointed out - a platform lift is the real thing, but with financial constraints to begin with I prefer to save this kind of budget for e.g. tires.
 

· Mark – Super Moderator
2015 R1200R Exclusive
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8,324 Posts
… struggled to Houdini the aux.-lights wires/harness through the jam packed/condensed center area above the cylinders …
You know there’s a wiring loom conduit on the RHS just below the tank, don’t you?
 
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· Mark – Super Moderator
2015 R1200R Exclusive
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8,324 Posts
Well, there are floor lifts for motorcycles…manually actuated…but that’s pricy. I’d sooner invest in a comfy short stool.
That's my compromise - a lift adjustable workshop stool. A bike lift is too bulky for the space I have available.
 

· Registered
Beatrix - 2020 BMW R1250R Exclusive in Pollux Metallic Matte
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615 Posts
Hello,

Moved to this sub-forum In the hope it is a better fit for this question -
I am planning to buy the following jack for easier/less back-breaking and more simplified way to work on the motorcycle,
And I am completely clueless when it comes to this aspect - e.g. if the type of the jack I am about to buy is stupidly dangerous/high chance of falling/whatever,
And so as always - any shared experience/tips/advice would be much appreciated

LARIN ATVJ-3 ATV/Motorcycle Jack
View attachment 118517



p.s. while reading on the subject also found this very useful information about this type of jack/lift:
TL;DR version of the following video is that the load/motorcycle should not exceed rated-load / 2.5,
E.g. if jack/lift is rated up to 1500lbs load, then motorcycle/load should not exceed 600lbs (1500lbs / 2.5)
I bought and still have one of those motorcycle jacks from Harbor Freight for my previous motorcycle - a comparatively heavy and low to the ground Japanese cruiser without a center stand. This type of stand doesn't really lift the bike high enough to alleviate the need to bend over all the time, but it was absolutely necessary when I had to remove the rear wheel. Also made it easier to perform routine maintenance and accessories installation. So far, the HF jack is collecting dust.
In the time I had my R1250R w/ center stand, I didn't feel that there was a need for an auxiliary jack. Even when I got a flat tire, and went to get it replaced, an independed motorcycle shop mechanic didn't use a lift or a jack.
If you current bike has a center stand, I wouldn't bother with a motorcycle jack for DIY types of repairs. I think even wheel removal can be done easily without a jack on an R1250R: I've seen a few "GS" owners do that type of maintenance on YouTube.

A platform motorcycle lift is somewhat of a luxury that one day I might own - not really an option while parking in a shared garage in an apartment building.
 

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I bought one of those for my no centerstand R1100S. With a custom cut piece of 1/2" plywood adapter it worked well for maintenance & tire changes. It's not very stable until you get tight straps hooked to those handy loops and over the frame.

Not a lot of lift. If you're buying it for better ergos while working on the bike it won't buy you much.

Working on the R LC I temporarily mount the centerstand then put a wood padded bottle jack under the front of the engine.

My aging body is suggesting that I buy myself a genuine lift table for a retirement gift. Also looking at a nifty single post lift from England that has a bike specific adapter.

Ed: a pair of the heavy duty knee pads flooring installers use makes kneeling around the bike much more comfortable. Cheap at any good hardware/home improvement store.
 

· Mark – Super Moderator
2015 R1200R Exclusive
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8,324 Posts
Before car lifts became ubiquitous, mechanics would have a pit in the garage to work under a car. A version for motorcycles would be very handy - U-shaped trench down each side and across the front so you could sit on the edge with your lower legs in the trench, or stand in it to work on upper parts without bending. When not in use, cover with steel plates.
Get digging!
 

· Retired In Beautiful Tennessee
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1,913 Posts
In the states we called those "grease pits".

Cheers, Dave
 

· Registered
2022 R1250RS his and hers
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902 Posts
Before car lifts became ubiquitous, mechanics would have a pit in the garage to work under a car.
A friend in Oklahoma has one in his fairly new attached garage.
It has a steel cover when not in use.
He can use it to work on a vehicle or a safe place during a tornado.
 
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