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Discussion Starter #1
Sometimes after driving for a while - 1 to 2 hours - I experince that my R1200R 2007 can not get the right idle.
It is too low and if I don't keep it running by the gashandle, it will stall.

Any suggestions to what is the matter?
Maybe it is just a bad connection ?
 

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Hi @airborn

I'm surprised no Hex-Head techie has weighed in, so I'll throw in my two bob's worth.

Three things come to mind, the Throttle Position Sensor (TPM - Part #4) the Idle Control Valve (ICV - Part #2) and vacuum leakage.

If the TPM is getting a bit worn or has residual carbon build up, it can report incorrect throttle position to the ECU and hence the ECU supplies the wrong amount of fuel. Keeping the throttle opened can keep the engine running, but it can stall otherwise. Likewise, a loose connector can give similar results. The only way to check the former is to view the throttle position readout using a GS911 or similar as you slowly open/close the throttle. Like a noisy rheostat on your old hifi amp, the problem can often be solved by simply running the throttle fully open/closed many times (engine off, of course).

Idle RPM is controlled electronically by the ECU via adjusting the opening of the ICV. If the connector is loose or the valve is dirty and hence restricting flow, sluggish or sticking, then the air for idle can't be metered as required.

Finally, a vacuum leak into the throttle body will upset idle. I recall discussion on the forum of vacuum caps (Part #9) on Hex-Heads deteriorating and allowing air to be drawn in. Worth checking the integrity of the throttle body mounting boots, too.

108458
 

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Almost certainly not helpful, but - my late 2013/14 Classic had a similar intermittent problem, which a canny tech found was due to the fuel injector body (#11 in Pz's post) being cracked and letting air in (or out). I believe it's made of ceramic or some such rather brittle stuff. Remedied under warranty.
 
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Also check you have the necessary throttle cable free play at the throttle ... it can play havoc with the idle if non-existent. If you have access to a GS-911, it does have a idle actuator calibration feature which may show some improvement or at least eliminate this as contributing.
 

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Almost certainly not helpful, but - my late 2013/14 Classic had a similar intermittent problem, which a canny tech found was due to the fuel injector body (#11 in Pz's post) being cracked and letting air in (or out). I believe it's made of ceramic or some such rather brittle stuff. Remedied under warranty.
This happened on my SV650, and was the most difficult thing to diagnose. Also caused issues cruising, where it would suddenly start running rich and rough. The diagnosis was by brake cleaner or starter fluid being squirted at different locations/hoses. When squirted at a point where there is a leak, the idle will change.
 
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I thought the title of this Thread referred to me - 'poor and idle'! :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Hi @airborn

I'm surprised no Hex-Head techie has weighed in, so I'll throw in my two bob's worth.

Three things come to mind, the Throttle Position Sensor (TPM - Part #4) the Idle Control Valve (ICV - Part #2) and vacuum leakage.

If the TPM is getting a bit worn or has residual carbon build up, it can report incorrect throttle position to the ECU and hence the ECU supplies the wrong amount of fuel. Keeping the throttle opened can keep the engine running, but it can stall otherwise. Likewise, a loose connector can give similar results. The only way to check the former is to view the throttle position readout using a GS911 or similar as you slowly open/close the throttle. Like a noisy rheostat on your old hifi amp, the problem can often be solved by simply running the throttle fully open/closed many times (engine off, of course).

Idle RPM is controlled electronically by the ECU via adjusting the opening of the ICV. If the connector is loose or the valve is dirty and hence restricting flow, sluggish or sticking, then the air for idle can't be metered as required.

Finally, a vacuum leak into the throttle body will upset idle. I recall discussion on the forum of vacuum caps (Part #9) on Hex-Heads deteriorating and allowing air to be drawn in. Worth checking the integrity of the throttle body mounting boots, too.

View attachment 108458
Thank you .
Is it possible just to change nr. 2 and 4 or will it take a lot of adjustments (by professionals)
 

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Both items can be changed without any adjustment as both are self-learning. Just be sure the idle control valve is retracted prior to fitting it to avoid mechanical damage. The idle control actuates on shutdown, so you can watch it move through a self seating sequence when it is removed by switching the ignition on, then off again. The valve can be safely prevented from extending during this process to ensure it isn't sticking out too far. It's actuated by a stepper motor, and during its zeroing process, it actually does this itself against the valve seat.

I'd check their function before replacing, though, as neither are cheap. Read off real time values using Motoscan app on Android with suitable Bluetooth ODB link, or a GS911 on any device.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi again
Is there one or two Throttle Position Sensor/s on the bike.?
I can only locate one on the left side !
 

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Maybe that's your problem! (Joking ...)

I don't have a hex-head but the parts fiche shows one on each throttle body, which makes sense given what then do and the distance between the throttle bodies. The F800 parallel twin can get away with one given how close the throttle bodies are. This post in the F800 riders forum illustrates how they work.

EDIT: One throttle position sensor, two idle control valves. My bad - read the post too quickly.🤦‍♂️
 

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Sorry - I misread your post, in my mind reading idle control valve. Yes, only one TPS.
 
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