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Greetings R12r gang...thanks for the great resource. I hope to be a 2011 R12r owner in another 9 days. If/When this happens, I was hoping to get a bit of your expert experience to help me get this beauty in good form. Couple of questions...

1. Do the Classic's wire-spoke wheels have tubes or are they tubeless? ( know most wire-spoke are tubed, but I thought I read somewhere that the boxer wire-spoked wheels are indeed tubeless.

2. Can I use my R11r oil filters in the 2011 R12r?

3. Where can I find a list of the items that need to be done for the 12k mile service (it has 11k on it and I am going to ride it home 2k miles after I purchase it) Oh boy!!

4. By chance, does anyone know the bolt size, pitch and length of the handlebar clamps? Size and pitch would be great!

5. Are the 2011 R12r handlebars the 22mm (7/8") or the 25mm (1 1/16")??

6. What is the "mineral oil" for the clutch all about...can I get it locally in Phoenix and do I have to use the dealer brand??

7. Do I really need a special tool to remove the oil filter?? I have the one for my R11r that works well.

8. How about a suggestion for a very small tire pump.

Thank you for your willingness to help out a newby....hope someday to help one of you.

Steve
 

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Sorry... another question....I think I read in the R12r owner's manual that the BMW stated load limit on the hard bags is 10kg which is about 22lbs. Does anyone know if this is correct?
 

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Where are all the DIY cam-head owners willing to help out a fellow rider?

I can’t help with all the questions, but the Classic’s wire wheels aren’t suited to tubeless unless you use something to seal off the nipples.

You can use the parts fiche for checking compatibility of parts between models. It’ll also tell you the handlebar pinch bolt sizes.

I suggest getting a manual for servicing, either a Haynes or the factory one (I have both for my LC - gives two perspectives the Haynes is more narrative in nature for DIY).

Oil filters have normal flats around the outer edge - nothing special, just need the right size and number of flats. If your old filters fit, then so will your tool.
 

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Ex-Classic owner (and lover) here: to expand on Pz's reply on the spoked wheels, those on this model carry tubeless tyres with tubes inside. Madness - go figure...! Same (annoyingly) as on my current R9T.

Plenty of solutions and advice available on converting, as Pz goes on to say, to tubeless tyres sans tubes by sealing-off the spoke-ends internally, and a proprietary kit called OUTEX is available, ex Japan I think. I plan to do this on my R9T some time soon, but using a DIY approach..

Enjoy the Classic, Sre7.
 
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Where are all the DIY cam-head owners willing to help out a fellow rider?

I can’t help with all the questions, but the Classic’s wire wheels aren’t suited to tubeless unless you use something to seal off the nipples.

You can use the parts fiche for checking compatibility of parts between models. It’ll also tell you the handlebar pinch bolt sizes.

I suggest getting a manual for servicing, either a Haynes or the factory one (I have both for my LC - gives two perspectives the Haynes is more narrative in nature for DIY).

Oil filters have normal flats around the outer edge - nothing special, just need the right size and number of flats. If your old filters fit, then so will your tool.
Panzermann, much appreciated. You experience is great and helpful. Love to learn and know the ins and outs of what I ride or work on. I'll try to not become a pain. Hopefully I'll learn enough so I can be a resource.
 

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Ex-Classic owner (and lover) here: to expand on Pz's reply on the spoked wheels, those on this model carry tubeless tyres with tubes inside. Madness - go figure...! Same (annoyingly) as on my current R9T.

Plenty of solutions and advice available on converting, as Pz goes on to say, to tubeless tyres sans tubes by sealing-off the spoke-ends internally, and a proprietary kit called OUTEX is available, ex Japan I think. I plan to do this on my R9T some time soon, but using a DIY approach..

Enjoy the Classic, Sre7.
Thank you Sir... Well done. Yea, I'm hoping to soon be a R12r owner. Really enjoy my R11r, but would like a bit newer, a bit less miles, a bit more horsepower, and a sweet 6th gear. We'll keep you updated.
 
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Steve, you'll find on the ascycles link I directed you to, at the bottom of the page is a link to the 12,000 mile service schedule.
 
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  1. Steve, you'll find on the ascycles link I directed you to, at the bottom of the page is a link to the 12,000 mile service schedule.
    Sweet, thanks... I'll take a look.
 

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The only question I can add info for here is the portable pump - I've been really happy with the Stop&Go brand pump I have. They also have plug kits that work really well. The pump is designed to plug into the same port as a battery tender.
 

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Greetings R12r gang...thanks for the great resource. I hope to be a 2011 R12r owner in another 9 days. If/When this happens, I was hoping to get a bit of your expert experience to help me get this beauty in good form. Couple of questions...

1. Do the Classic's wire-spoke wheels have tubes or are they tubeless? ( know most wire-spoke are tubed, but I thought I read somewhere that the boxer wire-spoked wheels are indeed tubeless.

2. Can I use my R11r oil filters in the 2011 R12r?

3. Where can I find a list of the items that need to be done for the 12k mile service (it has 11k on it and I am going to ride it home 2k miles after I purchase it) Oh boy!!

4. By chance, does anyone know the bolt size, pitch and length of the handlebar clamps? Size and pitch would be great!

5. Are the 2011 R12r handlebars the 22mm (7/8") or the 25mm (1 1/16")??

6. What is the "mineral oil" for the clutch all about...can I get it locally in Phoenix and do I have to use the dealer brand??

7. Do I really need a special tool to remove the oil filter?? I have the one for my R11r that works well.

8. How about a suggestion for a very small tire pump.

Thank you for your willingness to help out a newby....hope someday to help one of you.

Steve
Tubless conversion?

I’d recommend this:


No problems on my Thruxton for a couple of hundred miles now. Different versions available.
 

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The only question I can add info for here is the portable pump - I've been really happy with the Stop&Go brand pump I have. They also have plug kits that work really well. The pump is designed to plug into the same port as a battery tender.
Thanks much, I will take a look. Unfortunately, I think I'm not going to be able to use a "road side" solution to temporarily fix a flat if I happen to get one, since the bike I'm looking at has the wire spoked wheels. I don't think they are as easily tended to on the side of the road. However, your help will be utilized for my old faithful, and much valued R1100r. Thanks again!
 
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Ex-Classic owner (and lover) here: to expand on Pz's reply on the spoked wheels, those on this model carry tubeless tyres with tubes inside. Madness - go figure...! Same (annoyingly) as on my current R9T.

Plenty of solutions and advice available on converting, as Pz goes on to say, to tubeless tyres sans tubes by sealing-off the spoke-ends internally, and a proprietary kit called OUTEX is available, ex Japan I think. I plan to do this on my R9T some time soon, but using a DIY approach..

Enjoy the Classic, Sre7.
Lawrence, I would be very interested in what your DIY approach entails when you get around to it. Having ridden wire spoked dirt bikes most of my life, I personally find it almost impossible to think one could seal every little possible air-leak on a wire spoke rim... but I have also learned to try and never say never! 😊. However, I sure would very much like the option of plugging a flat tire on the road and getting it home. Tubeless also allows me to run the tiny ceramic balancing beads in my tires which I have found to be quite beneficial. Please do let me know your solution when you have time.
 

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Tubless conversion?

I’d recommend this:


No problems on my Thruxton for a couple of hundred miles now. Different versions available.
Wow, thanks for the reply and suggestion. I am most intrigued by converting to tubeless. Please, if you think about it, keep me posted on how your experience actually pans out. Much success!
 
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Wow, thanks for the reply and suggestion. I am most intrigued by converting to tubeless. Please, if you think about it, keep me posted on how your experience actually pans out. Much success!
Will do Sre, I’m a conversion convert. Got it done professionally though, around an hour’s labour. Compatible with automatic pressure sensors located on the valve.

Motorcycle Bluetooth Tire Pressure Monitoring System TPMS Mobile Phone APP Detection External Sensor Bluetooth 4.0 TPMS with 2 Tire Sensors for Motorcycles

 

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My previous bike was an R1100R and it had wire spoked wheels (horrid things to keep clean) and was tubeless. The spokes connected to the edge of the rim, under the tire lip, thus not requireing a tube and being a full tubless tire. I had the bike for 13 years and only ever had one puncture and fixed that with a tubless repair kit from an auto accessories store.
 

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Lawrence, I would be very interested in what your DIY approach entails when you get around to it. Having ridden wire spoked dirt bikes most of my life, I personally find it almost impossible to think one could seal every little possible air-leak on a wire spoke rim... but I have also learned to try and never say never! 😊. However, I sure would very much like the option of plugging a flat tire on the road and getting it home. Tubeless also allows me to run the tiny ceramic balancing beads in my tires which I have found to be quite beneficial. Please do let me know your solution when you have time.

G'day again Sre7, and only too pleased to be able to assist, though at this time rather less than I'd like, as I am not yet ready to do the tubeless conversion. The R9T's ergos do not suit my ageing bod very well, and I am slowly working through some possible solutions, latest of which is to install a taller handlebar to get me sitting rather more upright and reducing the weight on my wrists (and yes, I have 'bar risers fitted and they do help, but I need more). The taller 'bar from the new-ish BMW F900 XR is on order from Germany, eta here as yet unknown.

So back to the DIY tubeless conversion, which I will not attempt until I'm happy with the new handlebar, for if that is unsuccessful the bike may have to go. But if it's a keeper - which I obviously hope will be the case - then the tyre conversion is an immediate 'next-must'; for exactly the same reasons as yourself.

I will now look up the discussion on the R9T Forum on this subject - much covered by members there - and will post what I can.... if I can!

LATER EDIT: here is the nub of what I plan to do (my italics). Reports say it is effective in both an outcome and cost sense, and quite straightforward, tho' I'll have to take the bike to the dealer to have the wheels and tyres taken off, then replaced after the DIY is done, as I cannot do that myself. Several guys have successfully taken this approach, which makes a lot of sense to me. I understand that OUTEX requires a rather laborious grinding-down of the protruding spoke-heads inside the wheel, but this process does not. I reckon it could be accomplished within 24 hours so as to keep the dealership happy at having a wheeel-less bike taking up room in the workshop. I have, BTW, looked into having the job done professionally, but can find no such source here, and in any case would prefer to do it myself for quality reasons!

If you care to PM me your postal address I'll happily print-out the entire to-date Thread on this with its many photographs, which you'll find instructive: I certainly did.


I have an opinion. The outex kit is a faff . I used a 700ml tube of sika marine adhesive and sealant. Guys, Adhesive is the key word here. I created domes on the spoke terminals after thorough cleaning of them with aerosol de greasant. The domes are in affect caps that fill the spoke/ nut hole and the nut /rim interface. The 700ml tube cost £14.00. It did a front wheel. Re fitted tyre. Filled to 50psi. Left overnight. Submerged wheel in wheelbarrow full of water, rotated vertically through 360 degrees. No air bubbles. A good dome of this stuff on spoke rim interface works. Any stickum job is prone to failure. Without correct application. Without correct prep. £23 is all you need to spend for a tubeless front wheel. Anyone thinking of suggesting that the domes of sealant will spin off due to centrifugal forces did not observe the key word "adhesive" and recognize that there is a dynamic pressure of at least 36psi acting on them. Spacex is glued together with this stuff.
 

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LATER EDIT: here is the nub of what I plan to do (my italics). Reports say it is effective in both an outcome and cost sense, and quite straightforward, tho' I'll have to take the bike to the dealer to have the wheels and tyres taken off, then replaced after the DIY is done, as I cannot do that myself. Several guys have successfully taken this approach, which makes a lot of sense to me. I understand that OUTEX requires a rather laborious grinding-down of the protruding spoke-heads inside the wheel, but this process does not. I reckon it could be accomplished within 24 hours so as to keep the dealership happy at having a wheeel-less bike taking up room in the workshop. I have, BTW, looked into having the job done professionally, but can find no such source here, and in any case would prefer to do it myself for quality reasons!

If you care to PM me your postal address I'll happily print-out the entire to-date Thread on this with its many photographs, which you'll find instructive: I certainly did.


I have an opinion. The outex kit is a faff . I used a 700ml tube of sika marine adhesive and sealant. Guys, Adhesive is the key word here. I created domes on the spoke terminals after thorough cleaning of them with aerosol de greasant. The domes are in affect caps that fill the spoke/ nut hole and the nut /rim interface. The 700ml tube cost £14.00. It did a front wheel. Re fitted tyre. Filled to 50psi. Left overnight. Submerged wheel in wheelbarrow full of water, rotated vertically through 360 degrees. No air bubbles. A good dome of this stuff on spoke rim interface works. Any stickum job is prone to failure. Without correct application. Without correct prep. £23 is all you need to spend for a tubeless front wheel. Anyone thinking of suggesting that the domes of sealant will spin off due to centrifugal forces did not observe the key word "adhesive" and recognize that there is a dynamic pressure of at least 36psi acting on them. Spacex is glued together with this stuff.
 
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@Lawrence of Suburbia - does your RnineT have a center stand? If yes, you could do one end at a time and just take the wheel/tyre into any moto tyre shop for dismount/mounting of the tyre...
 

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LATER EDIT: here is the nub of what I plan to do (my italics). Reports say it is effective in both an outcome and cost sense, and quite straightforward, tho' I'll have to take the bike to the dealer to have the wheels and tyres taken off, then replaced after the DIY is done, as I cannot do that myself. Several guys have successfully taken this approach, which makes a lot of sense to me. I understand that OUTEX requires a rather laborious grinding-down of the protruding spoke-heads inside the wheel, but this process does not. I reckon it could be accomplished within 24 hours so as to keep the dealership happy at having a wheeel-less bike taking up room in the workshop. I have, BTW, looked into having the job done professionally, but can find no such source here, and in any case would prefer to do it myself for quality reasons!

If you care to PM me your postal address I'll happily print-out the entire to-date Thread on this with its many photographs, which you'll find instructive: I certainly did.


I have an opinion. The outex kit is a faff . I used a 700ml tube of sika marine adhesive and sealant. Guys, Adhesive is the key word here. I created domes on the spoke terminals after thorough cleaning of them with aerosol de greasant. The domes are in affect caps that fill the spoke/ nut hole and the nut /rim interface. The 700ml tube cost £14.00. It did a front wheel. Re fitted tyre. Filled to 50psi. Left overnight. Submerged wheel in wheelbarrow full of water, rotated vertically through 360 degrees. No air bubbles. A good dome of this stuff on spoke rim interface works. Any stickum job is prone to failure. Without correct application. Without correct prep. £23 is all you need to spend for a tubeless front wheel. Anyone thinking of suggesting that the domes of sealant will spin off due to centrifugal forces did not observe the key word "adhesive" and recognize that there is a dynamic pressure of at least 36psi acting on them. Spacex is glued together with this stuff.
Lof S,
. This is very interesting to me. I like messing around with DIY solutions. Let me see if I understand what you mean. You cleaned the spoke nibs that are mounted in the rim, then you put a "glob" or a "cap" or mound covering this spoke nib and the "valley" it is sitting in. You then let it dry or cure, then you put the tire back on with out the tube fill it up with air and go for it after you check for air leaks? Do you intend to put the "adhesive tape" over the spoke nibs as they do in the Outex system? Thanks again for the help and insight.
 
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