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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,
as you remember, exactly one month ago, forum member and cool dude Websterize shared with us a problem that our bikes have with rust on the fuel filler, all because for some reason Beemer decided to cut that corner.

http://www.r1200rforum.com/forum/bmw-r1200r-general-discussions-7/best-%243-you-can-spend-your-r12r-abdeckring-tank-cover-2481/

After following his thread, I decided I didn't want to spend $9.00 shipping on a $3.00 item so I ordered one with my dealership.

One week after that it arrived and because I have being extremely busy growing grey hair with help of my architect, contractor and DOB, it took me this long to install it.

At first, I thought it would take 3 minutes, pretty straight forward procedure, remove 4 screws, install gasket, replace 4 screws.

Good thing I followed Clem's curiosity and removed the red filler just to make sure everything was ok. Oh what a nasty surprise.

Please consider that I keep my bike indoors at all times, I rarely ride on the rain and NEVER wash it.

I really don't know why Beemer didn't just put that gasket, or at least some kind of rust proof coat, or at least just paint it, it's just the naked pure steel down there, it makes me think they just want to secretly make some money after few years when we need to replace the whole tank and the warranty has expired.

They know that the gasket is the same for few bikes and the R1200Rs before 2010 has it, so why did they just decided on cutting this corner?

I know the well known fuel strip problem is annoying but as long as you keep track of your mileage, you'll be fine, many bikes years ago didn't have fuel level readers at all, but non of them where predisposed to rust. I'm sad, mad and disappointed.

In this first picture there is no sign of any damage whatsoever, last time bike saw water was before winter.

No Damage.jpg


This is how much it really cost for us, the costumers, how much did BMW saved by cutting this corner.

Cost.jpg

Here is the thing

The Thing.jpg


The only tool you need (plus whatever you attached that to)

The tool.jpg

Remove the 5 screws.

Top Cap Screws.jpg


Remove the top fuel filler cap.
At this point you can just place the gasket, replace the filler and screws and you are set.
If you wish to see the condition of your tank, then go ahead.

Top Cap.jpg


Remove the remaining 3 screws.

Red plastic.jpg

Remove the red filler

Red filler removed.jpg

Surprise surprise :cursing::2guns::cursing: :crying:

Surprise.jpg


Remove this gasket

Gasket.jpg



Somehow it was wet.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I didn't want to remove the whole tank to fix it, and didn't want to sand the rust because the dust would end up inside the tank, so after drying it, I used metal polish and old good elbow grease.



Once all the rust was gone, I taped the interior of the cap, which is painted just like the rest of the tank, and just how the bottom supposed to be.
And used some foil to protect the tank.





Made a cardboard cover for the gas hole.



Left a little extra space to be able to remove with a bread bag wire attached to it.



Painted with some exhaust paint I had left over from my FZ6, I used it for the headers and it lasted trough high temperatures and water, so I figured out it will work here.
Same can I used to paint my EzPass to blend with rest of the bike.





After letting dry for 10 minutes and apply another thin layer, remove the cardboard and let dry.



Nice



Clean and replace gasket



Clean and replace red filler with 3 screws



Put the new gasket in place




Replace the top cap with the 4 screws




Final



Hope this was helpful and you are calling your dealership to place an order of such gasket NOW.
 

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Thank you, Hoshiko!! Like you, my R12 is garaged, seldom wet, and seldom washed with copious water. I assumed that in my case the gasket would not be necessary...now I'll buy one when I take my bike in for a fuel sensor strip:angry:. I agree, its just cutting corners to allow raw steel in this application...which, btw, is the reason I sold my 2800CS BMW auto in 1978 and never went back for another. The 2800CS had major rust through within 5 years, and never saw salt, winter roads, meticulously maintained and always garaged. I'm still mad. Its not just BMW though...pretty much universal to save pennies in the short run, but lose customers over the longer haul.

btw, did you check my HR1 pics out on the exhaust thread? What an improvement to delete the water heater. Thanks for all your good guidance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
btw, did you check my HR1 pics out on the exhaust thread? What an improvement to delete the water heater. Thanks for all your good guidance.
Even if you bike is not rusted, I think you should just get the **** thing.

I just look at the pics, nice looking bike,:drool: and supercool key chain too.;);)

 

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Even if you bike is not rusted, I think you should just get the **** thing.
Thanks for this detailed process, Hoshiko - another gem from you - and I shall be ordering one on-line immediately. Just one minor ? - in your 'final' pic the ring appears to be sitting a little 'proud' of its recess for a good part of the circumference of the opening. Is this it, or had you just not fully pushed the ring in? Whatever, it won't stop me from proceeding.

I can just see my ad when I come to sell the bike - 'genuine Abdeckring installed' under the list of extras!

L of S
 

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F-word. I put in the gasket. . .I am NOT re-dissassembling part of the bike to sand and repaint them. Will ask the dealer at some far distant tuneup.
 

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Hoshiko, in your last picture, it doesn't appear the gasket covers the seam from about 10 o'clock to 4'oclock. It should cover the seam all the way around. I posted a photo of mine in the link you kindly referenced above. I have an '09, but I doubt the dimensions of the fuel filler changed after the 2011 facelift.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hoshiko, in your last picture, it doesn't appear the gasket covers the seam from about 10 o'clock to 4'oclock. It should cover the seam all the way around. I posted a photo of mine in the link you kindly referenced above. I have an '09, but I doubt the dimensions of the fuel filler changed after the 2011 facelift.
I just didn't centered it.
it fit's perfectly now that I have put it right at the center.
 

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argh! where are my blood pressure pills! . . . sigh
 

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Okay Okay, I'll order the ring.........I, too, thought it couldn't happen to me with the controlled interior storage and tank bag over the filler if I ever got stuck in a rain.

Thanks, Hoshiko
 

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argh! where are my blood pressure pills! . . . sigh
I assume if it's rusty on top then it's just as rusted on the other side - maybe worse. Can rusty droplets make it from the underside of the plate into the gasoline?
 

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Mr Moo - where the **** is Lizard Lick, and why is it so named? I'm intrigued!! We have some strange place-names here - try Wanko, Bing Bong - but yours is near the top of my list!

L of S
 

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Thanks Hoshiko! Fantastic pictures to make the ABDECKRING installation a breeze. Certainly thank you for the post, and most camhead owners should consider this modification before rust begins. A small 2"balloon can be softly inflated to fill the hole perfectly, and easily removed after painting.
Just two small points about the reassembly.
It will probably avoid possible leaks better if you slide the black filler tube gasket up onto the red plastic filler tube and carefully fit it into the small groove first, and then put the assembly into the fuel tank.
Don't get carried away and over-tighten these fasteners. Snug is all you need, like using only your finger tips on the driver. Not held firmly in a clenched fist.
 

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Mr Moo - where the **** is Lizard Lick, and why is it so named? I'm intrigued!! We have some strange place-names here - try Wanko, Bing Bong - but yours is near the top of my list!

L of S
I spent a few days in Wagga Wagga once; that was pretty amusing for the first hour. :001_cool: Lizard Lick is about the same thing, only less. Wide spot in the road near Raleigh, NC with a funny name - lots of those in North Carolina. Frog Level, Cricket, Cutthroat Ridge, Lizzie, Smackass Gap. LizLick now famous(?) for a bad television show created by the (real) operators of a local towing and recovery firm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=F3a-l8RR1OY&NR=1
 

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This is must...

Thanks, MrMoo - with that info in mind I shall now be able to sleep soundly o'nights!

My Abdeckring arrived in the mail yesterday, $4.20 (I said to my wife it MUST be the cheapest bit that BMW markets!),fitting it soon... great help from all these posts....

L of S
 

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Lizard Lick

Had a college roommate from that wide place in the road. He told a story of a split rail fence covered in lizards. They would run the fence catching insects. The owner of a local whiskey still always carried a cane, and would smack at the lizards as he walked past. He affectionately called his cane Ol' Lizard Licker. Folks seeking alcohol were advised to drive until they saw the lizards and pull over. Even after the still owner was jailed, the name Lizard Lick remained in use. Lots of strange names for places, and stranger stories to explain them. Truth is stranger than fiction.:)
 

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This is a must...

Well, with the arrival of the <$5 Abdeckring, and the computer fired-up and running on these posts, I again studied the words and pix and set to on the job.

But first – I am a strong believer in the inevitability of Murphy’s Law (also known as Sod’s Law), which tells us that if anything can go wrong, it will! So to prevent the screws from around the filler cap and/ or the M25 Tork-head falling into the tank while removing the screws – it’s a little ‘tight’ around there, and larger fingers may fumble a bit - I tightly stuffed a clean hankie into the fuel opening: no – the hanky didn’t disappear!

I also made sure to do the same when replacing the screws - fuel plus screws or Tork-head would not make a happy mixture inside the tank!

Anyway, when the screws were removed and the thing taken apart as shown by Hoshiko I was pleasantly surprised to find that the inner surface of the recess (or upper surface of the tank) was heavily coated in a light-grey material that resembled some kind of epoxy: it certainly wasn’t normal paint, nor was there any sign of corrosion or rust. It was very hard and glossy, and is obviously there to stop corrosion. BTW – my bike is a late-2012 build, sold as a 2013 model, so this minor upgrade obviously came along late in the piece.

So I simply put the new gasket in place and screwed everything back together again, hanky in place – a ten minute job!

Thanks to all, especially to Hoshiko for the step-by-step pix, for alerting us to this potential problem and showing the means of fixing it. I now fully expect the bike to be faster, quieter, and smoother!


Lawrence of Suburbia

outer Brisbane, SE Queensland, Australia
 
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