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One wonders if the R9T suffers the same, and if the newer LC versions will be so afflicted - but they may well not have metal tanks.

Another prime example of BMWs inattention to genuine customer concerns.

'Like the bike: despise the company'.

L of S
 
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I've been looking on the net for this part without any joy, the only quote I have found was from the good old US of A. Not a problem except for the shipping cost of 61 dollars :dizzy:
As it's a non riding day to-morrow ( only 15 degs ) I am going to have a look, and intend to use clear silicon sealant around the fuel cap, this will save me 2.55 dollars :clap:

Greg
 

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Greg - if you had asked I'm sure someone here could have bought and mailed you the item from wherever at MUCH less than $61!!!

35C here yesterday (95F) and humidity to match - ghastly!

L of S
 

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Greg - if you had asked I'm sure someone here could have bought and mailed you the item from wherever at MUCH less than $61!!!

35C here yesterday (95F) and humidity to match - ghastly!

L of S
L of S I'm sure you are right but to be honest, I wouldn't like to impose. Any-way it's always good to have a plan B to a problem. If plan B does work out O.K. it will be very satisfying.
Back in August it was very hot ( about the same as you are having ) also very humid. There was a time when the humidity didn't bother us, but I must admit as time goes by, I find when it's like that it is better to just chill out with a beer and a BBQ. :)

Greg
 

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Again R1200R forum to the rescue! Checked my 2007 and fortunately rust at a bare minimum. New Abdeckring for 2015 if my dealer is able to supply. Thanks again, I work through the site and find helpful information.
 

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I ordered my AB Deckring at Southbank Motorcycles a week or so ago. The parts sales guy didn't know it by name or what I was talking about, but seemed to know what it was when he looked up the part number I gave him. He said it was for a K bike. Anyway, it had to be ordered in and is now waiting for me to pick up. $4.25 I think. I don't know if my 2013 gas filler is rusting or not (it only gets wet when I wash it - three times so far), but that rubber ring is going on next week.
 

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Hi,

Thank you all for this thread and for the valuable information.
I would like to share my experience with this issue, so it can inspire others and possibly help them.

I have worked on a friend's R1200R 2012.

It all started when we saw the heads of the screws of the fuel tank filler neck all rusted, when he was filling his gas tank. I told him we need to change the screws, but that there may be underlying problems. We then found this thread. Sure enough, when disassembling the filler cap, there was rust everywhere and it was starting to flake so it really was time to do something !

First, I used a dremel tool to remove as much rust as possible.
Safety advice : hermetically plug the gas opening (see below) when you do so, because of possible sparks, either from the motor of the dremel tool or from the tool tip itself.

Then, I used "Rust Check" liquid bottle rust converter to try to convert as much rust as possible. I'm not totally excited by this product, it seemed to be pretty weak, but we managed to convert some of the rust which is better than nothing, after several coats and letting it dry.

I then used an automotive paint degreaser (based on acetone) to remove all chemical residues and prep the surface.

Then I applied a fair amount of Rust Check silver grey rust paint. It's supposed to be OK on top of slightly rusted metal. I put 3 coats, a first light one, then 2 heavier ones. I put quite a bit of paint because the surface wasn't totally flat due to the rust flaking a bit, and I needed to make sure everything was covered (didn't have POR15, looks thicker so it would have been better I guess).

And then it took AGES to dry. 24h after, it was still not dry !!!

My friend was not very happy, he wanted to ride his bike, which I can understand.

I believe it was because of the fuel vapors dissolving the paint and preventing it from drying.

I took inspiration from this post :

Not happy!! My next decision was weather to drain and remove the tank or fabricate a plug so no nasty bits fall in the tank
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg504/ejute/IMG_3746_zpsb58f7885.jpg
I made a similar setup (using old circuit boards, I didn't have a suitable piece of metal available) :

(see attached picture)

At this very moment, it's still drying and I will make another post to report the end result, tomorrow.

Of course we'll add the "abdeckring", which is currently on order at our local BMW dealership. But it's nice to have several layers of protection.

-----------------------------------------------------

Now, regarding the screws.

Initially, we wanted to replace the screws to stainless steel screws, but before doing so, I tried fixing them. I put them into hot vinegar for some time, which removed most of the rust. Then I painted them black with krylon matte black paint. They look great now.

(see attached picture)

Normally you don't do this because the rust changed the shape of the threads and there will be uneven torque among the screw which can lead to problems, but there is not a lot of force on these fasteners so I believe it was OK to do it here. Similarly, hydrogen embrittlement could be an issue if the fasteners were subject to a lot of force but it's not the case here.

The screws will be inserted with Loctite marine grade anti-seize (hard to find but best stuff) to prevent any further rust on the threads and prevent possible galling (would have been an issue especially if we went forward and moved to stainless steel fasteners I believe).

I also fixed this way the 4 smaller screws at the top of the cap. Looks much better.

(see attached picture)

That's it for now !

PS : Here is the stuff I used so far (the rust converter is in a glass jar, this bottle is crap and leaks, be careful) :
(see attached picture)
 

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A few more pictures attached to this message : the initial state (rusted screws, rusted fuel tank) and the paint masking.

Regarding the paint masking, I used painters tape for most of the big masking, and electrical tape to create a very nice masking around the neck of the top of the fuel tank. If you look at the resulting pictures in the post above, it shows you the top of the neck has been masked properly. Basically, you put small (2 inches long or so) segments of tape around the neck, and you press them back to the top of the tank. The elasticity of the tape will allow the tape to follow the shape of the junction between the neck and the top. Hope it's clear
 

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Yea this rust issue was something I was aware of just after I bought my 2014 Dark White from Boyd Motorcycles in Hamilton NZ.
Shortly after getting the bike I asked them to take off the petrol cap ,and fix any rust that was under there .
They were very surprised and a bit shocked that I was correct and that area isn't painted . Mine had no rust as they showed me ,so it was painted . They also fitted the abdekring
I had got from the States..Max BMW I think .
Really all owners of our bikes with steel tanks should check this area out .
Quite honestly its very shabby of BMW not to have painted this area.
 

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Yea this rust issue was something I was aware of just after I bought my 2014 Dark White from Boyd Motorcycles in Hamilton NZ.
Shortly after getting the bike I asked them to take off the petrol cap ,and fix any rust that was under there .
They were very surprised and a bit shocked that I was correct and that area isn't painted . Mine had no rust as they showed me ,so it was painted . They also fitted the abdekring
I had got from the States..Max BMW I think .
Really all owners of our bikes with steel tanks should check this area out .
Quite honestly its very shabby of BMW not to have painted this area.
Ha, funny you say, I bought the other Dark White on sale at Boyds Motorcycles in Hamilton...after you.
You were more onto it than me having them look in and fix it.
My bike came with 6000kms, was aware it had been sitting outside the shop most of the time except for them bring it in at night.

I checked in on my tank.....there was some rust but not much, however got a rust prevent paint onto it. I still need to do a second coat, perhaps a spring job.
 

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Ha, funny you say, I bought the other Dark White on sale at Boyds Motorcycles in Hamilton...after you.
You were more onto it than me having them look in and fix it.
My bike came with 6000kms, was aware it had been sitting outside the shop most of the time except for them bring it in at night.

I checked in on my tank.....there was some rust but not much, however got a rust prevent paint onto it. I still need to do a second coat, perhaps a spring job.
Yea I think both our bikes were there for quite a while . I certainly was glad of YouTube to find this out .The internet does have its uses .
When i went into their workshop I got out all the rust neutraliser , rust preventive paint and even some art paint brushes from my bag. A clown maybe , but a prepared one !

They said they use their own products . However I didn't see the painted finished article , but they would have done it . The workshop learnt something that day .
 

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Sharing a few more tips (no pun intended) following my fix a few posts above

I used some qtips to mask the screw holes. I then applied a coat of Fluid Film rust preventative, on top of the Rust Check paint once the latter was dry.

The Fluid Film coating looks a bit messy but over time it will even out.
I also applied some Fluid Film evenly all around the top seam around the neck, because I was concerned rust could start here. The Fluid Film will seep into the cracks and hopefully prevent any issue here.

Then I removed the qtips, and put the screws back in using some Loctite Marine Grade anti-seize. This will act as a very good anti-rust for the screws.

Finally, I put some Fluid Film at the top of the screw heads, using a qtip as an applicator.
I am not sure if it will stay there for long but it cannot hurt.

I will open it in a few days, once the dealership receives the "abdeckring", to install it. In the meantime I will cover the fuel cap so no water gets in.

Voila that's it ! I think this bike should be fine for a few more years...
 

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Mark – 2015 R1200R-LC Exclusive
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Anyone know if the 2015 LC is having the same problem and if the same part fits?
No such problem with the LC, Andreas - it has a plastic fuel tank.
 

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Latecomer to the R1200R here. I purchased a used 2014 Classic with 14000 miles two weeks ago. Unfortunately right before we were hit by stay-at-home orders so I haven‘t been able to ride it. Started reading up on it and landed on this forum and thread, luckily. Opened up the filler cap and as expected, it it seriously corroded.

107238


This view greeted me...I think this is the most corroded example I’ve seen in this thread. Luckily the paint on the sides of the filler is intact, no bubbling.
I followed some of the steps recommended here and have gingerly cleaned it up to this stage

107239


I left the screws in their respective holes as I cleaned the rust because even though the holes are sealed at the bottom and stuff won’t fall into the tank, the grit will accumulate at the bottom of these sealed screw sites.

Next step will be sealing the main opening while I sand the rusted area. I‘ll post progress and pics.

A related question here. On my bike, the lock/unlock mechanism on the gas filler cap was VERY hard to turn and unlock to fill gas. I’ve taken the cap apart up to this point

107240


Have any of you disassembled this further? I’m stuck and don’t know how to proceed further. The mechanism has improved significantly but it is still far from being smooth and silky. I’ve soaked it in gasoline, sloshed it around and used every brush I have to clean it but I would like to take It apart completely for thorough cleansing. TIA for any advice.
 

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Greetings! You are not the first and may not be the last to find this - but you seem well on the way to resolving it. Try soaking with WD40 to loosen the lock. I assume you have the abdeckring to hand - or on order? Enjoy the bike...
 

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DB1BCB9C-C032-4E02-BB50-2E1EEFCA7A7A.jpeg
1 day into repair on 2011. Unfortunately I had to drill the heads off of two of the torx bolts that were stripped trying to remove. Next step is to Dremel two slots to get a screwdriver in after soaking for a day or two with PB blaster. Ordered new gasket new torx bolts and new filler from Max BMW here in the states. Going to miss a week of 50-60F temps riding but want to solve before it gets worse. It’s bad but not as bad as I’ve seen posted here. Suggestions welcomed!
 
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