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Discussion Starter #1
I just have to shake my head sometimes. So I have owned the r1200r now since September of last year and I love the bike. This is my first "modern" motorcycle with fuel injection and a computer, etc.

A couple of months ago I posted a thread asking why there weren't very many aftermarket parts for the r1200r compared to the older Japanese bikes that I have owned. In retrospect that seems like such a funny thread now.

Over this winter I have attempted two minor modifications and both have been foiled with frustration, both of which have been easily done on my previously owned bikes. Many of you probably saw my Banshee Horn post from a week ago. That one I probably can do and the failure was more on my issues with the aesthetic of the bike with the horn more than anything else.

Today I attempted to install the Signal Dynamics' Back Off XP. It is a tail light modulator. Something I have installed twice before on other bikes.

The journey on this one of course started off fine enough, but even at the outset when I exposed the wiring I found myself confused right out of the gate. I found myself presented with some of the weirdest wiring colors I have ever seen on the wiring. A black/grey/yellow wire, a grey/red/white wire and a brown wire. The brown is negative btw.

After installing the Back OffI kept getting a lamp fault on the bike when I started it up. I could not for the life of me figure out what was going on. Were my splices and butt connectors bad? I finally went online and figured out it was the canbus. So much for another project.

Now I am just slightly pissed because I had to cut back quite a bit of the insulation wrap on the wires to expose them. They are now of course also butt crimped back together rather than being nice and clean.

The more I own this bike the more I sort of look at it like an Apple computer (which I own and use). They are gorgeous, beautifully engineered pieces of equipment. Even the wiring was gorgeously laid out (on both!!!!) There are easy to install after market accessories that are equally as beautiful and pricy. But, if you really want to mess with stuff though it seems like that is sort of a "no-no". Don't crack that box open too much. The gear is too smart for its own good.

All said and done, I suppose I just need to stop fiddling with the bike and just ride the **** thing.
 

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Have had good luck with the P3 lights, which you can program any number of ways and also do this flicker thing. Installation was a cinch and no ZFE issues.

 

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+1 You can say that again! The R1100s and R1150 had fuses & a larger battery. It was very easy to add on electrical farkles. The CANBUS coupled with a smaller battery is more challenging. The learning curve also applies to Plug & Play aftermarket accessories. There are good things about the new system, but the DIY limitations are an aggravation.
 

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+1 You can say that again! The R1100s and R1150 had fuses & a larger battery. It was very easy to add on electrical farkles. The CANBUS coupled with a smaller battery is more challenging. The learning curve also applies to Plug & Play aftermarket accessories. There are good things about the new system, but the DIY limitations are an aggravation.
Agree 100%. I installed a new Stebel Magnum horn on my 013 R1200R yesterday (replacing the pathetic squeaky-toy device fitted as an OEM) and it was NO plug-and-play. I don't think I'd be game to try to install these lights.

L of S
 

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Zfe?

ZFE is the control module that switches the lights.
Zentrale Fahrzeugelektronik, or Central Chassis Electronics
controls the lights, heated accessories, horn, radio, accessory socket, and cruise control based on inputs from handlebar switches and the like.
Individual control inputs go directly to ZFE, and control outputs go from ZFE to individual components (bulbs, heated grips, etc.)

CAN-bus technology

The CANbus is not "friendly"to you adding on lighting, heated vest, or other accessories that draw very much current.
Sometimes it just cuts the accessory socket OFF.
You may get a FAULT code.
Some aftermarket products add resistors/load balancer,which can get HOT,to fool the system.
 

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hmm.. this is probably not a good solution but can you use a relay and just use the can bus as the signal wire? run separate power to the battery? LED shouldn't use much power.

I have no idea how the wiring works for what you are doing but I use this on newer cars when needed.
 

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That is exactly why it is best to buy a fuse block and run accessories outside of the CANBUS. I have fog lights, P3's, and an upgraded horn all through a fuseblock.

I suck at electrical work so I got my dealer to install them for me. They also warranty their work so if there are any issues related to the bike due to these add ons the dealer is responsible not me. :)
 

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That is exactly why it is best to buy a fuse block and run accessories outside of the CANBUS. I have fog lights, P3's, and an upgraded horn all through a fuseblock.
:iagree: if you want to install any kind of old fashioned accessories, another option is to make sure whatever you buy is CANBUS compatible.

+1 on the extra LEDs rather then change what you already have, I have no interest on doing this but if you really want, you can have your directional markers to LEDs and have the same modulator runn them together as running/braking/turning lights.

Take a look at this http://www.r1200rforum.com/forum/bmw-r1200r-maintenance-do-yourself-12/led-lights-w-pictures-118/

Easy to install and are amazing for night riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is exactly why it is best to buy a fuse block and run accessories outside of the CANBUS. I have fog lights, P3's, and an upgraded horn all through a fuseblock.

I suck at electrical work so I got my dealer to install them for me. They also warranty their work so if there are any issues related to the bike due to these add ons the dealer is responsible not me. :)
You really have me considering a fuseblock now, especially if I install the photon blasters. I have used Eastern Beaver products before and would probably go with that as an option. Fuseboxes
 

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Not knocking a Fusebox, but it's overkill for PB lighting, which, since they're LEDs, sip power. The posi-taps that the lighting ships with will work without issue on a switched circuit, and the taps are easy to use and non-destructive. Fusebox and the like are designed for high-draw accessories, such as heated gear, or anything drawing more than ~5A on the bike's electrical ecosystem.

Speaking of which, I'm fairly sure CAN-bus is a wiring conduit of the electrical system. CAN-bus doesn't shut off power to the heated-gear controller plugged in to the accessory outlet, it's just the messenger. ZFE is shutting it down.

From Clem's link:

ZFE ... controls the lights, heated accessories, horn, radio, accessory socket,…

"CAN, which stands for Controller Area Network, is an automotive standard and is not BMW-specific. … The data pathways (physical wiring, generally) used by the CAN are sometimes also referred to as the CAN-bus.
CAN-bus : ethernet cable as ZFE : router. Is that an accurate analogy?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
That is exactly why it is best to buy a fuse block and run accessories outside of the CANBUS. I have fog lights, P3's, and an upgraded horn all through a fuseblock.

I suck at electrical work so I got my dealer to install them for me. They also warranty their work so if there are any issues related to the bike due to these add ons the dealer is responsible not me. :)
How did you run the P3 through the fuse box? Did you setup a separate relay to trigger it? Seems like you would still need to tap into the break light wire either way to know if it is being energized or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not knocking a Fusebox, but it's overkill for PB lighting, which, since they're LEDs, sip power. The posi-taps that the lighting ships with will work without issue on a switched circuit, and the taps are easy to use and non-destructive. Fusebox and the like are designed for high-draw accessories, such as heated gear, or anything drawing more than ~5A on the bike's electrical ecosystem.

Speaking of which, I'm fairly sure CAN-bus is a wiring conduit of the electrical system. CAN-bus doesn't shut off power to the heated-gear controller plugged in to the accessory outlet, it's just the messenger. ZFE is shutting it down.

From Clem's link:



CAN-bus : ethernet cable as ZFE : router. Is that an accurate analogy?

True. However, I do probably want to run an additional line for a GPS and perhaps a second set of photon blasters. Who knows.

Besides, I know how fuses and relays work. I can wrap my head around that stuff. Can bus and ZFE's not so much.

I have the Haynes manual and was looking at the electrical diagram yesterday and was confounded for a good 10 minutes before I could figure out what I was looking at.
 

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True. However, I do probably want to run an additional line for a GPS and perhaps a second set of photon blasters. Who knows.
Have the PBs out front and P3s on rear, both tapping switched circuits. No problems. Fuzeblock is ideal for Gerbing's heated gear or portable air pump. I just connect straight to battery with a Powerlet cable.

In case you hadn't seen it, there's a dedicated GPS plug (red wire) attached to the throttle-side frame under the engine tank.



On the 2011+ models, it's much easier to access the plug. It was buried on my '09. The connector is plug-and-play with the Navigator IV GPS. For others, you'll need the BMW repair connector. White/yellow piece here:


Beg pardon if this has been discussed ad nauseam. New to this forum. Not new to the bike.
 

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CAN- contolled area network - referring to the network of control modules
bus (data bus)- roadway for data transfer between ecms and other control module

Just like a network of computers in your house all sending signals with prioritized requests.

Websterize has a good solution. It's hard finding switch power supplies on CAN let alone a fused circuit. I will have to remember this for my future conquests.:goodjob:
 
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