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Thus far on the new R1250R:

1) Removed the Nav cradle- never going to use it. Learned about removing side panels.

2) Installed Hornig 25 mm risers. The clutch and brake extenders were needed to prevent bindingToday, at full stop on both sides. I have the Hornig 30 mm up and 21 mm back. For this one, there isn’t enough cable on the clutch side with the extenders. You can reroute the clutch cable on the left side to get more play and keep the cable in front of the triple trees. I don’t see enough cable on the brake side to do this.

3) Today, put the Optimate 4 charger directly on the battery from the aux 12v port, so I can power Hyperlite brake flashers from the 12v port without having to charge on that port. I haven’t looked at the Hyperlite instructions yet but have qualms about identifying the correct wires on the bike.
 

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I went to duck to the hardware shop, 8klms away, to get some acetone for my wife, only to find that the bikes battery was flat. Sadly, I had to take the car. The outing just wasn't the same.
Ken
 

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I decided to take the body panels off...just because. I did it to get to know the bike more and see “what is under the hood.” I plan on giving it a good cleaning while it’s stripped down.



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[QUOTE} The lockdown in the UK is a great time to add some mods to the bike!
Stay safe all.
[/QUOTE]

Same here, but I'm running out of dosh!
 

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I decided to take the body panels off...just because. I did it to get to know the bike more and see “what is under the hood.” I plan on giving it a good cleaning while it’s stripped down.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had the right side off but forgot to see if you can get more play in the brake line by repositioning it. Supposedly you can do this with the clutch cable. Do you see any possibilities for gaining an inch or so of cable play?
 

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I had the right side off but forgot to see if you can get more play in the brake line by repositioning it. Supposedly you can do this with the clutch cable. Do you see any possibilities for gaining an inch or so of cable play?
There are at least a couple of companies that sell "extension adapters", which give you some extra play in either the brake or clutch hoses. Easy install, usually not requiring bleeding the line.
 

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There are at least a couple of companies that sell "extension adapters", which give you some extra play in either the brake or clutch hoses. Easy install, usually not requiring bleeding the line.
I installed the Hornig adapters on both sides. This was sufficient for the Hornig 25 mm up risers. Then I put on the Hornig 30 mm up and 21 mm back. The right side is OK after cutting some zip ties but the clutch side is tight. I had left side panels off yesterday and cut some zip ties but I’d like it looser. Hornig has a video on rerouting the clutch cable but it conveniently omits showing you the new route. Their instruction pictures are worthless. They mention rerouting “in front if the frame”. What does this mean? I may attack it again today.

This picture shows the stock position of the clutch cable above the radiator looking down from the front. It looks like you can move the cable behind the frame where the arrow points. Seem reasonable?

98E6DBF0-F6C8-438F-97FD-47E7A80EBDB1.jpeg
 

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I installed the Hornig adapters on both sides. This was sufficient for the Hornig 25 mm up risers. Then I put on the Hornig 30 mm up and 21 mm back. The right side is OK after cutting some zip ties but the clutch side is tight. I had left side panels off yesterday and cut some zip ties but I’d like it looser. Hornig has a video on rerouting the clutch cable but it conveniently omits showing you the new route. Their instruction pictures are worthless. They mention rerouting “in front if the frame”. What does this mean?
Hornigs were the ones I was thinking of. I seem to recall, from my looks at bar risers (that I never bothered to get in the end) that someone might have 'better' clutch hose re-routing instructions. Not sure who, but someone that also sells risers, like Helibar or Wunderlich.
 

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Hornigs were the ones I was thinking of. I seem to recall, from my looks at bar risers (that I never bothered to get in the end) that someone might have 'better' clutch hose re-routing instructions. Not sure who, but someone that also sells risers, like Helibar or Wunderlich.
Between the Hornig video and the Wunderlich pictures, I managed to do it.
 

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Not done just today, but over the last month and so far 1100 km, been making titanium in a very nice blue colour. Still chilly here with frost in the mornings, but my beloved R has been used for commuting for a while now :cool:
Blue.JPG
 

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Have been waiting awhile to post my response: bought this 2012 R1200R back in '17 from a dealer. At 6k an engine bearing tore apart, and the owner took it into the dealer for repair. Shop quoted $8000, it was 1 year out of warranty, and BMW refused to be involved. So it was traded on a new ride and stuck in the dealer's warehouse until he ebayed it. I picked it up for $1500, knowing that all the farkles (Rizoma mirros, Denali lites, Corbin seat, Wunderlich windshield, Remus can) and parts were well worth over $4k.

But it's difficult for me to scrap a bike, having owned some 20+ airheads, K's, and R11S bikes. This one sat in my shop until one day i thought "hell, i can't screw up the engine any more than it is already" so i bought a short block ($300) with the same mileage and began tearing the bike down, figuring parting it out would necessitate that anyway.

I have the shop online manual, and decided to give it a go. And after a full service check from my dealer (setting the cams, checking engine torques, timing, and tune) and a few missing parts added, she's 300 miles good so far. She needs a solid 200m shakedown once i convince my wife to drive my truck and trailer to come get me if things go south.

Anyway, some pics attached: Tear down, completed, Cognito Moto mirrors (glassless), aux lites and switch mounted in the controls, PDM60, license plate bracket, rear end cleanup. Servo buddy goes on this weekend and I'll call it good for awhile. Windshield is not going back on (if anyone is interested lmk).
 

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