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If you could procure (or build) a temporarily-latching relay, then the high beam lead running to the headlight shell would work as a trigger - just hit the overtake/flash button. Note that it would trigger the garage remote every time you flick up to high beam, but that would just mean replacing the remote's battery more often if you were a regular night-time rider.

With an LC that's the only way I can think of wiring into the circuit unless you interface via the CANBUS using an appropriate device. Each of the left and right handlebar switches communicate with the instrument panel (via LINBUS?) which then communicates with the chassis computer, so you can't really tap into any of the leads to the left/right controls for a 12V (or grounding) trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Decided to go another route, while i don't like loading up my bars with switches and whatnot- the aux light switch for my denalis is pretty fugly. ordered a nice 3 button switch (one of those cnc ones that is compact) that has latched on/off and one momentary switch, which will control the remote for the garage door. latched switch will run the denalis. ordered a PDM60 to handle everything, so I can lose the relay for the horn that is currently tucked under the seat.
 

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Decided to go another route, while i don't like loading up my bars with switches and whatnot- the aux light switch for my denalis is pretty fugly. ordered a nice 3 button switch (one of those cnc ones that is compact) that has latched on/off and one momentary switch, which will control the remote for the garage door. latched switch will run the denalis. ordered a PDM60 to handle everything, so I can lose the relay for the horn that is currently tucked under the seat.
+1 PDM60 - the unit installed Camhead and now my LC.



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I've had both installed for over 12 months - no issues at all with DVR/converter and PDM60.


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A few days late to the conversation, but I secured my remote under the seat and ran a discreet switch off of it to the frame on the left hand side. While Panzermann brought up a good point about being able to keep the clutch lever engaged while hitting the switch, my driveway is on an incline, so I had the exact opposite solution...my right hand stays on the brake. Also, what prompted me to make this project a priority is exactly what Panzermann described with the garage remote in the pocket. In December, after not riding for a couple months, I had mounted the bike and began to back out of the garage. About halfway out, I realized I should at least visually check my tire pressure. I leaned over and between my body and riding jacket, somehow depressed the remote button and activated the door. With bike running, ear plugs in and helmet on, it took me a second to process the extra hum I heard. I looked up, saw the door coming down, and moved forward just enough for it to come down on my top case. The 4in wide scrape across the topcase moved the project to the top of my list.
 

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Bike is a '12 R1200R

Been mulling this idea, digging around for any info i can lay hands on. Hear me out:

Rigging up a remote to the bike without using a Mo-Door or Flash2Pass, or without adding a toggle switch, is the proposal. What do you need? Well, a little solder, a remote opener, and a momentary switch to start. We all have one built in to the bike already- the hi beam flash switch. How often do you use it? Me, maybe once a year... and why couldn't I just flip the hi beam on and off? Do i really need a momentary on switch for it??? Nope. Not me.

So here's where I want to see if any of you geeks and geniuses have scratched together the same plan. I want to use the hi beam flash switch to trigger the remote. I get the whole rewiring the remote side- and I can't see how it would be tricky to do this. But I ain't in the genius bracket, not yet anyway. Smart enough to ask for input though! Any one got a thought on this?
I liked your idea of wiring up a garage remote control so much that I am doing it to my bike.
I am an electrician by trade, (not an electronics technician). As the remote controls have either a 6 volt or 9 volt battery, it does make it difficult to use any of the bikes existing switch gear to operate, as it may burn out the electronics in the remote control.

1. Remove the battery from the remote control.
2. On the remote control, set up the open door button so it is on all the time. (I did this by taking the circuit board out of the case and fitting a plastic screw cap over the button so that when the case is reassembled the plastic cap holds the button on all the time. It can also be done by putting a wide rubber band around the remote control and placing a small item on top of the button and under the rubber band. This saves dismantelling the remote control.)
3. Find a suitable location for the remote control. (I am putting mine under the seat, small remote controls may fit inside the head light shell or under the fuel tank.)
4. Run two wires from your new switch location into the remote control and use these to control the connection for the battery. (Depending on the type of garage remote control, this may be the most difficult part of the whole task. I have an old remote control which is about the size of a cigarette pack, which makes the job easy. Those with newer and smaller remote controls may have more difficultly doing this task.)
5. Purchase a neat 'momentary on switch' and place it at your desired location. (I have to make up a small bracket to mount the switch, but it will be neatly located between the speedo and handle bars, adjacent the clutch cable.)

I believe this to be the easiest way to install a garage remote control on your bike. It will sure beat fumbling around in your jacket pocket to open the garage door. (I have not completed the job yet, as I need to purchase a switch.)

Hope this will help,
Ken
 

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This has been an entertaining thread. Lots of creative people coming up with elaborate ideas for a problem that I solved very effectively by tucking a mini remote into a small pocket in the right sleeve of my Roadcrafter — coast up the driveway in neutral, push the button through the sleeve using my left index finger, and ride into the garage. Simple!
 

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My mind has been ticking over and I’ve designed a solution that will fit into the headshell and use the high-beam flasher to trigger, without using a battery for the remote, so it will be fit and forget (except to operate, of course). In addition to a working remote, parts cost will be less than $10.

More details once I’ve fitted it. Too busy house painting at the moment, but the end is in sight. How’s your painting going, @mikeS?
 

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The painting is you going well, albeit rather slowly. The painter stated some prep-work a few weeks back, but will not start up again for a couple of weeks. However, if I have about all the delays, I would've let my wife talk on the DYI project.


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If you could procure (or build) a temporarily-latching relay, then the high beam lead running to the headlight shell would work as a trigger - just hit the overtake/flash button. Note that it would trigger the garage remote every time you flick up to high beam, but that would just mean replacing the remote's battery more often if you were a regular night-time rider.

With an LC that's the only way I can think of wiring into the circuit unless you interface via the CANBUS using an appropriate device. Each of the left and right handlebar switches communicate with the instrument panel (via LINBUS?) which then communicates with the chassis computer, so you can't really tap into any of the leads to the left/right controls for a 12V (or grounding) trigger.
The only problem I see with this, apart from flattening the garage door remotes battery quickly, it may burn out the remote as it is only designed to be operated intermittently and being on all the time, the circuitry may overheat. (Only a thought, I don't know for sure.)
Ken
 

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The only problem I see with this, apart from flattening the garage door remotes battery quickly, it may burn out the remote as it is only designed to be operated intermittently and being on all the time, the circuitry may overheat. (Only a thought, I don't know for sure.)
Ken
Ken - the solution I have actually devised (rather than postulated, as in the post you quoted) uses a similar approach to yours, in that it triggers the power supply to the remote's circuitry (with one of the remote's switches 'on' all the time), rather than closing one of the switches, but instead of switching the battery in and out, I'm using power supplied by the bike, so there's no battery to go flat. The remote will only power up for half a second when the high beam switches in, which isn't that frequent in my experience.
 

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Daylight hours at the moment are for making hay while the sun shines (i.e. painting the house - yeah, I know, never ending story) but tonight I decided to give up chillin’ in front of the TV to wire up the garage door opener circuit (triggered by the headlight flasher or by switching to high beam).

I’ve yet to secure the components within the headlight shell, but yes - it works! Anyone handy with a multimeter, soldering iron, crimping pliers and a bit of arithmetic (plus a spare remote) should be able to implement this solution on any bike.

Details to follow in due course. 👌
 

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Readers Digest version

107373


War and Peace version

The original post on this thread, by @bostewart, piqued my curiosity on this issue – one I’ve pondered in the past. The stumbling block with the way the headlight flasher circuit is arranged has been to find a way to trigger a momentary pulse from a continuous voltage, given that the headlight flasher and high beam setting use one and the same circuit.

I did some searching for a momentary action relay, thinking I may be able to purchase such a device. I came across a very useful site called the12volt.com which has circuit diagrams for a multitude of relay applications, including exactly what I was looking for.

The continuous-to-momentary circuit simply adds a capacitor and resistor, in parallel, to the negative lead of the relay’s trigger circuit (solenoid).

When voltage is applied to the relay solenoid, the solenoid triggers until the capacitor reaches a critical state of charge (voltage) where the voltage difference across the trigger terminals (and hence current) is insufficient to hold the relay’s solenoid in place, whereupon the solenoid drops out. This status will be retained until the supply voltage is removed, whereupon leakage via the resistor depletes the capacitor’s charge, making the relay ready to act upon another trigger voltage. The bigger the capacitor, the longer the momentary pulse. The values in the example circuit,1000uF and 10k Ohms, promised about half a second momentary action, so that’s what I used.

The next issue was to tap power for the remote from the bike, rather than embed a remote with a battery that will eventually fail. Recalling a bit of high school physics, I figured a resistor of appropriate value in series with the remote, on the positive lead, would do the trick (a voltage divider circuit). Given that the current draw is constant when the remote is activated, nothing more sophisticated is required.

The first step was to determine the voltage of the remote’s battery supply – two CR2016 buttons in series, nominally 6V the pair, but measured at 6.65V. The current drawn when a button was depressed measured 0.012A. This is the current that needs to be supplied by the bike when the relay is closed.

R = V/I so the resistance of the remote’s circuitry (load resistance) is:

Load resistance = 6.65/0.012 = 550 Ohms

The voltage measured at the high beam bulb with the engine running is 13.6V. This is where I would draw power to activate the relay and the remote, either from activating the flasher or switching to high beam.

Using the formula above, the total resistance of the relay circuit needed to deliver the required 6.65V and hence 0.012A current through the remote should be:

Total resistance = V/I = 13.6/0.012 = 1133 Ohms.

So the series resistor value in the power supply line can be calculated as:

Series R = Total R – Load R = 1133-550 = 583 Ohms

Checking the electronic parts catalogue, the closest resistors to this value are 560 and 620 Ohms. Choosing the higher value will produce a slightly lower voltage at the remote – a safer option than the alternative of going slightly higher. Actual total resistance will therefore be:

Actual total R = 620+550 = 1170 Ohms

Actual voltage at the remote will then be:

Load R / Total R x Supply Voltage = 550/1170 x 13.6 = 6.4V

This is lower than two new CR2016 batteries but still higher than their nominal 6V.

Construction notes:
  • I chose to bridge one of the remote’s micro-switches rather than mechanically hold one button depressed; as in @kgdavo Ken’s solution, the power supply is switched, not the button micro-switch terminals.
  • The voltage divider resistor was fitted inside the remote case, soldered to the battery holder’s positive tab, the other end to a red lead, and sheathed in heat-shrink.
  • The leads were passed out the side of the case after cutting a couple grooves in the joining face of one half.
  • The leads for the resistor of the momentary-action circuit were wrapped around the capacitor’s wires to support the latter and then leads soldered on before sheathing in heat-shrink. Once tested with the relay on my bench 12V battery, I covered the capacitor/resistor assembly with some woven sheathing I happened to have, secured with hot glue at the rear then at the leads to protect and to guard against mechanical fatigue.
  • Note that electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive – a stripe along the body indicates the negative lead.
  • The high beam bulb is the lower of the two on the LC (obviously…) with the positive lead being white and the negative (ground) being brown.
  • I used a diode protected relay to guard against flyback spikes when voltage is removed from the relay solenoid. If unavailable, add a protection diode as shown in the linked web site.
    Note that power in for the relay (+ve) is terminal 2, earth side is terminal 1.
  • The remote and the relay were zip-tied to the horizontal wiring loom so that they didn’t rattle around.
It works, and I can now open the door of the PanzerHöhle as I approach with just a flash of high beam. Mission accomplished at a cost of A$8.55 plus a remote and some terminal connectors and hook-up wire.

This solution is translatable to any bike, subject to room to mount the relay, remote and capacitor/resistor assembly. Do your own measurements and calculations though as your remote’s parameters are likely to differ.
 

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Some construction pictures:

107364

RH micro-switch has been bridged

107365

Voltage divider resistor is soldered between the red lead and the +ve battery terminal (sitting in the space vacated by the batteries.

107366

Capacitor/resistor assembly that creates the relay's momentary action

107374

All components assembled and tucked away
 

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Nice idea to switch the power to the remote!

Have you left out the protection diode that is shown across the relay coil at the12volt.com?
 

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Nice idea to switch the power to the remote!

Have you left out the protection diode that is shown across the relay coil at the12volt.com?
As noted in the post, ogee, I borrowed the idea of switching the power from Ken.

Good point re the diode, ogee. The relay I used has an inbuilt protection diode, so it was not necessary to add one. Your comment caused me to look again at the circuit diagram I drew last night and I noted that I had transposed terminals 1 and 2, so I have amended the post. The value of peer review. 👌
 

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This has been an entertaining thread. Lots of creative people coming up with elaborate ideas for a problem that I solved very effectively by tucking a mini remote into a small pocket in the right sleeve of my Roadcrafter — coast up the driveway in neutral, push the button through the sleeve using my left index finger, and ride into the garage. Simple!
That’s exactly what I do, and if I use a different jacket, I just transfer the mini remote to the one I am wearing.
 
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