I had the Knight Design lowered pegs on my BMW f800s same style as yours, the only thing I found was they were a little slippery when wet, though some of my riding boots have little tread.

 

That's my fear, the "slippery when wet". How much effort would it be for someone to mimic the BMW original so we ca put the rubber back on?

 

I went for a test ride with the new Knight Design pegs installed. A big improvement in leg positioning. However, even with the rear brake pedal lowered to it's lowest possible position, it's too high. I have to lift my whole foot off the peg to brake. The shift lever needs to come down as well but I think that may be doable. The brake is the real problem. Other than a pedal with a bend in it, I don't see a solution.

 

Enjoying my KD pegs.

I lowered my rear brake pedal and truth be told, it's just fine.

Besides... linked brakes and all, I rarely use it unless I'm stopped and holding on a hill.

 

Yeah. After a few days of riding I'm used to the higher pedal. I did find myself scraping my boot when I was shifting in a turn. Other than that I like the Knight Design pegs.

 

The boot scraping was my fault. I dropped the toe of my left boot down to get under the shift lever for an up-shift. The new pegs are 1-3/4" inches lower. The shift lever has been lowered accordingly and I didn't take that into account when I got ready to change gears while leaned over. The adrenaline squirt will remind me not to do it again. :001_unsure:

 

I have them as well and several times I had this happen to me. My bike is the lowered version, which makes it even worse. Luckily I found a forum member who is willing to sell me his regular (unlowered) shocks, so I am looking forward to getting the bike raised and gaining a bit of that ground clearance back.

 

I installed the footpeg kit, as well. I'm finding the same issue with the break pedal: even in the lowest position it's too high. Yes, the breaks are linked but it's a nicer experience (and I feel safer) when using both brakes.

Anyone figured out a mod for this yet?

 

what about the tab on the sidestand? Some have reported issues with that getting in the way of shifting?

And have you considered going to lowes home depot, etc and getting some ridged rubber step tread with adhesive on it and just sticking it to the bare metal. Think it would hold?
something like this
Ribbed Profile Black 12-1/4 in. x 36 in. Round Nose Stair Tread-36811P100 - The Home Depot

 

There's a product called Tool Dip.

Get some, mix it with something like sand or other granular abrasive and paint it on the tread of the foot pegs.

Very durable vinyl product, reapply as needed.

 

Hey guys,

I went with the KD as well. I installed them and definitely want to adjust the position of the shift lever and the brake pedal. I'm assuming its the really big Torx bolt that I need to adjust. If that is correct do you guys know the size? Or am I doing it wrong??

Mark

 

No you don't touch the large torx bolt. I am borrowing pics posted by Rider 1 and I added some arrows....

For the brake pedal, there are two hex nuts that need to be adjusted. One is exposed and the other is under the rubber boot. I don't remember, but I THINK you loosen the bottom one which is the lock nut and then you can adjust the height with the other one. May be the other way around. Sorry, it has been a while since I did it. There is not much adjustment with the brake pedal. Even maxed out, initially it still didn't feel right. It took me a while, but now I am very used to the placement and don't think about it anymore.

On the clutch side, there is a metal rod with two hex nuts on it. Again, I don't remember which was which, but I think the front is the lock nut and the rear one is the adjustment nut. You loosen the front one and then after you get it to where you want, you re-tighten the lock nut. The clutch pedal has a lot of adjustment.

I was able to use the wrench that is under the seat, but for the brake side, it seems it isn't "quite" the right size because it was slipping a little when I tried to torque it down a bit.

Anyways, I hope you find this info useful.

 

Thank you! I'm surprised that they don't allow for a major change adjusting the spline/cog.

Mark

 

You're welcome. Maybe you can but the way I wrote is the only way I know how.

 

Looks to me like the best way to lower the foot brake beyond what is available with the given adjustment would be to fabricate a shorter "yoke" - the part that attaches to the tail end of the pedal. Since the tail is shorter than the front lever by a lot, a very small change in the tail end moves the front end quite a bit.

 

I made the adjustments and went for a short ride. The brake lever is only a tad high and I can definitely get used to it. The shift lever issue of hitting the center stand isn't an issue since my feet aren't big. So far, so good. Thanks for helping!

 

The folks at knight design told me you can move the shift lever but I found the adjustment as previously noted to be easier and quicker. I'll focus on easy

....."On the shift side, the screw mounting the bracket to the spline coming out of the transmission is M6, which would normally require a T-30 Torx head. This same bracket is used on your model starting in 2014, R1200GS starting in 2012 and similar years of R1200RT and R1200RS. As you've probably already realized, you'll want to loosen this bolt and rotate the bracket a tooth or two to lower the shift lever."

No major change for the brake lever. I guess that's the benefit of using the BMW kit....

Mark

 

.... I guess that's the benefit of using the BMW kit....

Mark

I have come very close to ordering the BMW foot peg lowering kit several times, but it is very expensive: MSRP $733 USD, even with 10-15% off in annual sales it is very costly. Beautiful hardware and nice to have all the adjustment options, but I just haven't been able to pull the trigger on that cost.

 

Just curious as to what reasons you guys have for wanting to lower the pegs, is it sore knees/feet or muscle cramps? I did notice i got a slightly sore right foot after 200km of twisty roads and lots of using the rear brake, but since then no problem, I think it was just that I was using muscles that don't normally have to do so much. I was looking at the brake linkage after reading this thread and there looks to be quite a bit of scope to adjust the brake pedal so it is lower (where you contact it with your foot) by screwing the rod that comes out of the master cylinder further into the yoke, whereas if you fit the lowered pegs you get the opposite result and have to bend the foot at a more extreme angle to use the brake. Maybe we all just need to do some stretching exercises? I know i do. Next rant - I can't figure out why someone who has the low seat would then fit lowered pegs? I can't work that out:nerd:

 

Next rant - I can't figure out why someone who has the low seat would then fit lowered pegs? I can't work that out:nerd:

Personally, I could JUST flat foot with the standard height seat but I wanted more of a bend in my knees at stops. I thought a low seat would make backing up the bike easier too. After I went to the low seat (which my dealer gave me for free), it accomplished what I wanted, but then there was too much of a bend in my knees when riding and I felt really cramped. Using the lowering pegs, I gained back the leg room I had lost.

 

Yep. Agreed 100% Kind of ridiculous. SOMEONE out there will make an aftermarket lever or similar to the BMW kit I'm sure. In due time....

Mark