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I’m also wondering if BMW can switch off that front bulb check altogether. Front bulbs are a pretty obvious failure to spot and would rather not have the failure be highlighted at all.

I’ll be calling the dealership to discuss it with them.
Please keep us updated. Thank you
 
Please keep us updated. Thank you
I just got off the phone with Long Beach (California) BMW Motorcycles. They have no solution for LED bulbs inducted errors. The service department wasn't very chatty either and wouldn't really investigate the issue unless "it's brought back to OEM configuration".

Since I'm getting the dash fault only for high beams, I'm also considering mismatching (LED for Low beam and halogen for high beams). Feels like in my case, I would cover a majority of my needs / expected benefits with minimum hassle. May end up doing that if the error code is too bothersome.
 
I'm getting periodic errors with LEDs, however the difference at night riding is so significant, I’m willing to live with errors for now.
 
correction: I used a 50 watt resistor. Senior moment.
When I installed LED lamps in my headlight (current draw was 20 watts for new lamp) I added two 10 watt resistors. The total wattage being used was about 40 watts. I found this was enough load to avoid the lamp error.

I'm curious why you specified a 50 watt resistor. I haven't read the entire thread but I think this lamp is close to not giving lamp errors. One 10 watt resistor may have been enough?

PS. I am not an electrical engineer or have a degree in anything. I just tried to match the factory 55W lamp load and discovered about 40W was enough.
 
Tima, I apologise up front for a long winded answer. The load that a resistor puts on a circuit is a function of it's resistance in ohms, not it's power rating. The power rating is an indication of how many watts it is capable of safely handling without failing. My bench testing with a battery showed the current flow with the stock bulb was 4 amps. Current flow with the LED was 1.7 amps. So if I want the CANBUS system to see an equivalent load with the LED then I need to pull another 2.3 amps (the difference between 4 and 1.7). My bench top battery voltage was a bit lower than actual running voltage as Panzermann pointed out so my math will be slightly off. If I use the equation V= IR using 14 volts and my measured currents I get 3.5 ohms of resistance for the stock bulb and 8.2 ohms for the LED. So, ideally the system wants to see a resistance equal to the stock bulb (3.5 ohms). So I lowered the resistance by adding a resistor in parallel with the LED. Using the equation for parallel resistor combinations to solve for what size resistor I need in parallel to get to 3.5 ohms with the LED, I get 6.1 ohms. This is why I used a 6 ohm resistor. Using power (in watts) = IV with I =2.3 amps and V=14 volts we get 32.2 watts. This is the wattage that the new resistor needs to be able to handle. That's why I used a 50 watt resistor. This would be ideal, but since the CANBUS error seems to be close to almost working we probably don't need exact equivalence to the stock H7 load. It may not take much at all. What is the resistance of your 10 watt resistors and how are they wired in? My concern would be with their longevity if they are over loaded. I talk much better than I type so happy to go on a call with you if you like.
 
No apologies needed! I appreciate the answer and learning something new is always a good thing...👍

I need to knaw on this a bit since my small brain "🧠" is a little confused now. Electronics was not a strong suit for me.

I'm not sure of the resistance of my resistors. They came with the Rizoma turn signals and I installed them per the instructions. This is for my high beam using a 20W LED lamp. I never use it really.

EDIT: They're 10W @ 15 ohms.

Image
 
Rizomas come with 15 ohm resistors at 10 watts from what I can see. A lower wattage rating is fine for turn signals since they are intermittent. I also don't equate degrees with smart. Some of the smartest people I've worked with had no degree and I've run into some with advanced degrees that weren't so smart, sometimes including myself :)
 
That made me laugh out loud!

I used them for the high beam. If it was on 'all the time', would that not be good for the resistors? Could they burn up?
 
They could fail for sure. I would take them out and go with a 6 ohm, 50 watt resistor in parallel. So one side of the resistor connects to your headlight hot wire (high beam or low beam) and the other goes to ground. The ground connection can be anywhere on the bike that is grounded. It will get hot so locate it accordingly, not in the headlight housing.
 
Thank you Scotto! I really don't ever ride at night, but will take your advice and rectify this. Or just put the oem lamp back in !!

I did some reading on "sizing resistors" and was clearly wrong in my thinking. I fear I was mistaken and misled folks in my thread on installing LEDs without lamp errors. I'm glad I asked you.
 
Discussion starter · #155 · (Edited)
Incredible all the resistor talk, mine are still working 99% with out triggering fault code 15000 kms later. Have had one or 2 faults during this time and both times on very hot days.
 
Incredible all the resistor talk, mine are still working 99% with out triggering fault code 15000 kms later. Have had one or 2 faults during this time and both very times on hot days.
That's very fortunate Ontrip. It wasn't my experience, though my faults were indeed intermittent. I think that reinforces the idea that the current flow with the LED is very close to the fault trigger threshold. It seems like many are experiencing these faults so I would call resistor talk logical, not incredible. It's a standard practice in correcting automotive LED issues.
 
Incredible all the resistor talk, mine are still working 99% with out triggering fault code 15000 kms later. Have had one or 2 faults during this time and both times on very hot days.
Likewise. Two full seasons and over 15,000 kms. and no faults with the Auxito LED’s on a R1250R. As far as I’m concerned, this subject is done and done!
 
Brilliant write up Fireman..
For anyone in the UK I have ordered these:

An excellent company to deal with..I had their fanless compact H4 LED in my previous bike.. Zero issues in 15 months and 12,500 miles!

This company also do a "Canbus corrector thingy" (technical term)!
See below:
Obviously not relevant if your bikes are happy with the LED replacements.

Simon
 
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