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LED Headlight Bulb Replacement Update

28K views 63 replies 29 participants last post by  tym4brk  
#1 ·
I've finally received the kit for the LED's from LED Perf and they don't fit.

I can't maneuver the low beam bulb into the headlight housing as it has to go straight in and the fan hits the edge of the headlight housing preventing it.
The high beam bulb does seat into the housing but the fan sticks up, preventing the cover from being put back on.

Before I ordered the kit, I emailed them expressly to make sure this was a plug and play deal, they assured me it was.
I made a couple of videos to show them, in case I have missed something but I doubt it.


I am waiting for their response.
(BTW, Tony is the representative at LedPerf I was emailing)


Video 1
Video 2
Video 3
 
#38 ·
For me the main advantage of LED lights is not having to deal with changing busted bulbs, but given I rarely drive during the day, that's going to become a rare event on an LC since most of the time I'm riding with the LED day light running lights.
 
#39 ·
Well, it took some doing, but I finally found an affordable plug and play LED H7 lamp (50W 6500K 6000 lumens) for all you out there. Available through Amazon for less than $40/pair, just add a couple of mounting adaptors (also Amazon) for $10/pair more, and ride away. No modifications to the housing necessary. No driver module to mount. They are fan cooled, but so compactly packaged that you'd swear you're just looking at a heatsink. No flickering either.
I would gladly share all the model numbers today, if I hadn't just finished the install 30 minutes ago.
I'll want to spend a few days test riding to see if there are any side effects to the conversion. Hopefully, they can shed enough heat without adding vents to the housing. They have to run cooler than the halogen they replace. Still, I don't want to be the guy leading y'all down another LED headlight dead end road.
There may also be a canbus error to resolve....as I'm getting an intermittent solid yellow warning light on the dash (no other indicators or warnings). I've got a buddy with a BMW test set, so we'll plug that in too. I'm guessing it's due to the different impedance of the LED, and will require a resistor to be added to the circuit. This is pretty typical of most LED conversions now days. Please feed free to chime in with any ideas on that front....especially if you've already been there and done that. More to come. Stay tuned.
 
#40 ·
Sounds good!
Anxiously awaits your impressions and details.
 
#43 ·
We have a winner in the LED headlight conversion contest! It will please some beyond all reason, and for some reason it will displease others. If you've been following my posts, you already know this was not to be a plug and play project. Having found a LED lamp that physically fit the confines of the headlight assembly without major butchering, and the clip with an opening large enough to hold it in place securely, there was the issue of the canbus warning indicators. The good news is that the canbus is "dumb" (at least for the bulb out indicator). By this I mean there is no mysterious digital code involved in sensing that one of the H7 is burned out. Rather the circuit simply expects to see a predetermined electrical load that signals everything is well. The standard H7 halogen draws about 4 amps. Unfortunately, depending upon how you view efficiency, a 55 watt LED replacement pulls only about 1.8 amps...not a sufficient load to pass its "lamp out" warning. Now, so you know, I tested a slew of those "canbus error correctors". Most did nothing at all. A rare few actually extinguished the warning successfully. HOWEVER, and this is a big however, they accomplished this task only by generating a plastic melting amount of heat. I'm not talking about those little gold resistors either, these were major brand black boxes with capacitors and coils inside. Having worked so hard to get temps below 50C inside he headlight assembly, I was not about to allow something running 150C outside of it. Keep in mind, all we were really doing is replacing the missing [2.2 amp] electrical load on the circuit for each of the H7 lamps replaced. But all the adaptors were doing was trading that for toaster quality heat. What a total waste of energy! We want more light, and the fact that LED make more light out of the energy provided should not be traded for heat to be dumped somewhere else on the bike.
So, I started looking for other things to do with that electricity instead. Oh, and I got way out of the box on this front. A thermoelectric drink holder that would cool a beverage can, drew enough current from the headlight circuit to turn off the warning light. So did jet-turbine sound generator and amplifier-speaker system. Batman would be proud to have this accessory installed on all his machines. Heck, we're talking a couple of amps here, why just throw it away?
Then a light came on...two actually...aux lights. What if we could add outboard lights (to the low and high beam circuits) that provided sufficient load to trick the canbus into thinking the old H7's were still in place and running normally? Well, we could, and we did. Ladies and gentlemen, what I have running now are three LED "headlights". All have a low and high beam just like the main one.
All run off the same circuit and switch, so no additional boxes or wiring. All together, they provide a ridiculous amount of light that is very controllable for pattern...all while using the same amount of energy as the original worthless H7's in the headlight unit. I've been running this complete system for a couple hours now, with nary a flicker or error light. If anyone's interested in this solution to the LED conversion conundrum, please chime in. I'll post some pics shortly. Thanks, for reading about my adventure.
 
#54 ·
I've finally received the kit for the LED's from LED Perf and they don't fit.

I can't maneuver the low beam bulb into the headlight housing as it has to go straight in and the fan hits the edge of the headlight housing preventing it.
The high beam bulb does seat into the housing but the fan sticks up, preventing the cover from being put back on.

Before I ordered the kit, I emailed them expressly to make sure this was a plug and play deal, they assured me it was.
I made a couple of videos to show them, in case I have missed something but I doubt it.


I am waiting for their response.
(BTW, Tony is the representative at LedPerf I was emailing)
Creating an account here for the sole purpose to reply to your comment.

Fell for the exact thing as you did and I'm also dealing with Tony :-D. He now offers me a replacement but still maintains that they have tons of happy customers with exactly my brand and make motorcycle. But they can still not produce guidance for the "100% plug and play" installation.

The bulb itself fits I think but the driver, can-bus dongle or whatever it is does not fit and installation require you to modify the housing to accommodate cables running in and out. Not plug and play in my book.

But to their credit after I called them out on it the offer me a free replacement to another bulb that has everything built in, picture below. A little lower output but interesting enough to try. I can post a progress update if anyone is interested? (Running a R1200GS btw)
111683
 
#55 ·
Okay y'all, as promised, I've been running this combo for almost a year now, and it's still working perfectly. Keep in mind, you'll need to add the running lights in order to trick the computer into thinking there are no missing bulbs, but the completed lighting combination is stupid bright, runs cool, and just plain works. Search no further. All at Amazon!
 
#59 ·
Aaagodman,
Thanks for the write up and this post. Just back from a 2500 mile 6 day trip and the only downfall with my RS was my headlight. I had installed a set of spots (very similar to yours actually, got to love Amazon) wired thru my Ezcan. With spots on, everything was great until I used my turn signals. I had set up the ezcan to switch off the spots when using the turn signal (I had mounted the spots close to turn signal and when in the signal is not very clear to oncoming traffic). Falling back to the crappy halogen headlight became a huge shock with the lack of light.
Just curious as the the spots have the spot / red wire, fog / yellow wire set up. Had you thought of using the fog light when on low beams and the spot light function on high beams?
I am assuming the current draw would be close enough not to trip the bulb loss function on the Canbus. Let us know your thoughts?

Has anyone else measured the current draw of their lights?

Regards
 
#61 ·
Unfortunately for me, I have only been able to replace my bulbs with brighter stock halogens.
I am already running auxiliary lights by Clearwater which are fully integrated into the wonder wheel and have their own unique power supply. I think the color temp of the new bulbs and the light output is better than the stock candles!
Image

 
#63 ·
I know this is an older thread but I saw a youtube video from a youtuber named Grumpy Goat on replacing H7 with the Auxito LED headlights. He did it successfully on an R1200RS. I thought I'd try it on my 2016 R1200R and ordered on Amazon. They were $29 for a pair. I received them and put them in both low and high beam and got a code immediately. I decided to try to take out the high beam and just try the low beam with the LED and it worked with no codes. So I put a halogen back in the high beam and left the Auxito LED in the low beam. No codes and I'm a happy camper the low beam LED is super bright and matches the color of my LED aux lights. I did email Auxito for a decoder for the high beam but not sure how I'll fit it in the housing or if I even want to mess with it...I might just go out and get a brighter halogen than the OEM and live with a brighter low beam for now and a yellowish high beam...hardly ever use the high beams anyway and now with the LED low might not need at all.
 
#64 ·
I want to thank MountDoraRRider for sharing your experience (and trick) with Auxito LED H7 bulbs. I've had my 2020 R1250R since September of 2022 and I tried two versions of these bulbs in my bike and both caused dash errors. I purchased the Philips CANbus adapters, which solved the problem, but wasn't feasible without modification and I was not up for that. So I settled for the Philips Crystalvision Ultra halogen bulbs that I installed in early October 2022. In mid-March 2024, the main bulb failed with only 3000-ish miles of riding. For what they cost, that was unacceptable too.

I've been checking back on this thread for updates and found the above, so back to Amazon I went and found AUXITO 2024 Upgraded H7 LED Light Bulb with fan and ordered a set and the Philips CANbus adapters determined to make them work. With the above info, I installed one bulb in the main beam and left the halogen in the bright beam location. I had a great ride to work with no errors. Wondering if AUXITO may have made an improvement with the bulbs for 2024 that would eliminate the errors, I swapped the high beam the next day too and I'm happy to report both bulbs are installed and no errors! I'll be returning the CANbus adapters as they are no longer needed.

I've been using AUXITO bulbs in other vehicles for years now and they are hands down the best solution I've tried. My main objective with the upgrade is to increase my visibility to other motorists during my daily commute on mountain roads where shadows and sun angle can present a challenge to be seen. On my morning ride in I can see the headlight illuminating the road in shadowed corners. I've yet to ride at night with the new bulbs, but based on my experience with the halogen H7s, anything will be an improvement.

YMMV, but if you're yearning for a solution that is plug and play, give these a shot! I have nothing to gain by sharing other than helping other bikers have a better riding experience with your R.
 
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