A few weeks back, I stopped to help out a fellow BM rider repair a front tyre puncture. His tyre repair kit was useless as the glue/cement had gone off (hardened). Long story short - I patched the puncture with my Tire-Plugger kit. It took much longer to find the actual puncture because there wasn't a nail or screw, just a tiny pin-hole puncture. I put the bike on the centre stand. I got old mate to pull down on the passenger, grab rails to raise the front wheel, slowly rotate the front wheel and listen for the leak (oh, yeah, I used my compressor to inflate the tyre; he only has two small Co2 cartridges). Anyway, I got it down, and i felt good to be able to help a fellow rider out.
Anyway, this got me thinking about what I would do if i had the same issue. - No problem. I carry everything I need to repair punctures and remove both wheels. However, if I need to rotate the front wheel or, worst case, remove the front wheel road-side. I could find some rocks/a big lump of wood or wait for someone to help me. The answer, so I thought, was one of one of those trail type jacks, something linked to this JACK. They're great for adventure bikes but not for my needs, and besides, I have a centre stand. I need something to tilt the bike back enough to lift the front wheel about 10mm while on the centre stand.
So, I jotted down some notes and started sketching a few designs. The first four or five designs were too expensive, awkward to store on the bike or not strong enough. Anyway, the prototype "The Nigel Jack" worked out nicely with a build cost of $15.00. I'm well-chuffed with the design as all my tools to remove both wheels fit well under the rider seat where the rider manual compartment is.
Tools stored under seat:
12mm HEX/38 socket front Axle, T45 fork pinch bolts, 13mm / 38 socket brake callipers, E10 3/8 socket, CRUZ tool T50 remove rear wheel lug nuts, T40 & T45 muffler removal and Wunderlich axel (blue socket) tool. I also have an 8" Nipex multi-grip and the Nigel Jack body.
The jack fits nicely right behind the MoMa front engine protector. It only takes a couple of complete full turns using the bike's 14mm spanner to lift the front wheel 10mm, which is enough to rotate the wheel freely and forks from side to side.
The jack body has a stainless steel hook and eyelet turnbuckle. I replaced the hook & eyelet with two ball-jointed levelling feet rated at 500 kg load each. The only fabrication I need to do is re-tap one end of the turnbuckle from the left-hand thread to the right-hand thread.
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Anyway, this got me thinking about what I would do if i had the same issue. - No problem. I carry everything I need to repair punctures and remove both wheels. However, if I need to rotate the front wheel or, worst case, remove the front wheel road-side. I could find some rocks/a big lump of wood or wait for someone to help me. The answer, so I thought, was one of one of those trail type jacks, something linked to this JACK. They're great for adventure bikes but not for my needs, and besides, I have a centre stand. I need something to tilt the bike back enough to lift the front wheel about 10mm while on the centre stand.
So, I jotted down some notes and started sketching a few designs. The first four or five designs were too expensive, awkward to store on the bike or not strong enough. Anyway, the prototype "The Nigel Jack" worked out nicely with a build cost of $15.00. I'm well-chuffed with the design as all my tools to remove both wheels fit well under the rider seat where the rider manual compartment is.
Tools stored under seat:
12mm HEX/38 socket front Axle, T45 fork pinch bolts, 13mm / 38 socket brake callipers, E10 3/8 socket, CRUZ tool T50 remove rear wheel lug nuts, T40 & T45 muffler removal and Wunderlich axel (blue socket) tool. I also have an 8" Nipex multi-grip and the Nigel Jack body.
The jack fits nicely right behind the MoMa front engine protector. It only takes a couple of complete full turns using the bike's 14mm spanner to lift the front wheel 10mm, which is enough to rotate the wheel freely and forks from side to side.
The jack body has a stainless steel hook and eyelet turnbuckle. I replaced the hook & eyelet with two ball-jointed levelling feet rated at 500 kg load each. The only fabrication I need to do is re-tap one end of the turnbuckle from the left-hand thread to the right-hand thread.
