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Discussion Starter #21
Crap, I hate this old age stuff. I just assumed it would be canbus compatible, as the article was from the ADV forum. I totally forgot to ask. If it isn’t, it won’t work for me.
 

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I just assumed it would be canbus compatible
I'm not saying it isn't CANBUS compatible, but at 11W it is likely not to be in my opinion.

The biggest thing for me is that there really isn't much, if anything, gained, and the beam spread is likely to be less than optimum, so likely something lost.
 

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Sad to have to agree with Panzerman. The numbers just don't make the case for Cyron's standard fit lamps, and their upgrade lamps (like most others) simply won't fit the R housing. Has anyone yet tried?

Xtremevision V10 30W 8,000LM - H7 LED Headlight Conversion Kit - 6500K CSP LED - 2019 Model
They utilize Cree chips...which is good, and spec out as follows:
  • Input Power: 15W x 2 / Total 30W
  • LED Type: CSP LED Chip
  • Voltage: DC9-32V
  • LED Color: Bright White
  • Lumen: 4000LM x 2 / Total 8000LM
  • Color Temperature: 6500K
  • Heat Dissipation: Built-In Drivers
  • Size: 3.25IN x 1.25IN (LxW) Life-Span: 30000Hrs+
  • IP Rate: IP67
Oddly, they don't show R1200R as a fit....but a number of BMW auto users seem to be having success with them as a plug and play replacement for their H7 halogens. There may be Canbus issues, but at under $30/pair (Amazon) adding an outboard resistor should not be a deal killer. I'm still working on another option. Stay tuned.
 

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Xtremevision V10 30W 8,000LM - H7 LED Headlight Conversion Kit - 6500K CSP LED - 2019 Model
These certainly look promising - their physical form seems to match the original, and they’re certainly very much brighter. At 30W, I doubt you would need a ballast resistor, so here’s hoping.

I just wonder about longevity - a lot of other bulb manufacturers make a big deal of their cooling system/fan effeciency. The colour errs towards a blueish tinge too.
 

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It seems a lot of folks ignore the need for cooling. LED's are not 100% efficient, so they do generate heat as well as light. Various cooling schemes have been developed to deal with this. A quick peek at the back of the R1200R's headlight housing reveals how BMW dumps excess heat with cast-in cooling fins. There is a limit to how much light we can get out of any LED retrofit, and that will depend on just how much waste heat we can shed. Remember too, that LED's (like all solid state devices) have a defined heat tolerance. Once that threshold is exceeded, light output falls and the life expectancy of the lamp shortens precipitously. Liquid cooling of the entire assembly is one promising solution, but would require filling the housing with a high viscosity non-electrically conductive gel. This substance is widely used in the computer industry to interface between micro processors and their cooling fins and fans. Given the thermal mass of the headlight assembly itself, all the gel would do is conduct the heat from the backside of the LED device and that casing. This could keep the devices themselves running at or near peak output without compromising their lifespan.
I'm looking for a simpler solution, but from an engineering standpoint, this H7 LED headlight conversion concept still holds much potential.
 

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The one from Xenon Depot that I've had running for ~3 years uses woven aluminum radiator pieces to dissipate heat. So far so good. On the other hand, a fan cooled LED that I ran on a earlier bike died in less than a year.
 

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Liquid cooling of the entire assembly is one promising solution, but would require filling the housing with a high viscosity non-electrically conductive gel.
I know of what you speak, but I can just imaging advertising “liquid cooled” headlights. Now, if they could use something like stovepipe technology to shunt heat from the source to a better positioned heat sink, that could help, but given the vibrations of a motorcycle, it could prove impossible to build and last for long before something breaks.
 

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Okay, that was a little over the top...but still doable. It's important to remember that we don't need a 55watt LED to replace our existing 55watt Halogens. We're already dumping 80% of the halogen's output as heat. So even a 30watt LED replacement will easily outperform that old 55 in terms of light output. A quick peek at the chart below should clarify. It's easy to get caught up in the "lumen war" that LED makers fight amongst themselves.
108288
 

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They replied and Have ordered it. I also inquired about a group buy and they did offer to give us one.
They didn't mention any details as I guess we are waiting to see if it fits.
I'll waiting for your update to see if it works so I can get one for my 12R. Hopefully it does.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well, it's a NO GO on these H7 bulbs from Cyron.
I did speak to Al at Cyron on Monday and voiced my CANBUS concerns but he wanted me to give the bulbs a try anyway.
It was a moot point as the bulbs didn't fit into the BMW bulb holder. The barrel of the bulb is too wide compared to normal H7 bulbs.
Here's a couple of pics.
IMG_0878.jpeg

108324
 

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At risk of them becoming weak and failing (and not being able to buy a replacement 😲) would it be able to grind the brackets back with a Dremel to make them fit?

BTW, it’s not normally necessary to remove the two mounting screws - just rotate the bulb/mount assembly anti-clockwise to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
When I tried the LED Perf bulbs, they came with enlarged bulb holders to accommodate the larger diameter LED bulbs they sell. Those bulbs were too long to fit. I am getting a bit tired paying for and trying out different bulbs advertised to fit, and then paying return fees.

I know that the headlight swivels out from the left side of the bucket IF you have a very short star driver to access the fastener on top to allow the swivel. I don't!
 

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I know that the headlight swivels out from the left side of the bucket IF you have a very short star driver to access the fastener on top to allow the swivel. I don't!
That's why I have one of these. 😄
 

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Might be worth a read for people who are contemplating this change.
 

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Might be worth a read for people who are contemplating this change.
This was indeed very interesting! Thank you for sharing.
 

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For me the main advantage of LED lights is not having to deal with changing busted bulbs, but given I rarely drive during the day, that's going to become a rare event on an LC since most of the time I'm riding with the LED day light running lights.
 

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Well, it took some doing, but I finally found an affordable plug and play LED H7 lamp (50W 6500K 6000 lumens) for all you out there. Available through Amazon for less than $40/pair, just add a couple of mounting adaptors (also Amazon) for $10/pair more, and ride away. No modifications to the housing necessary. No driver module to mount. They are fan cooled, but so compactly packaged that you'd swear you're just looking at a heatsink. No flickering either.
I would gladly share all the model numbers today, if I hadn't just finished the install 30 minutes ago.
I'll want to spend a few days test riding to see if there are any side effects to the conversion. Hopefully, they can shed enough heat without adding vents to the housing. They have to run cooler than the halogen they replace. Still, I don't want to be the guy leading y'all down another LED headlight dead end road.
There may also be a canbus error to resolve....as I'm getting an intermittent solid yellow warning light on the dash (no other indicators or warnings). I've got a buddy with a BMW test set, so we'll plug that in too. I'm guessing it's due to the different impedance of the LED, and will require a resistor to be added to the circuit. This is pretty typical of most LED conversions now days. Please feed free to chime in with any ideas on that front....especially if you've already been there and done that. More to come. Stay tuned.
 

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Sounds good!
Anxiously awaits your impressions and details.
 
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