[mikeS]

mikeS - Thank you for the kind offer!
I looked again at the comparison video, and it appears that bulb color temperature is still too warm for my liking, especially when compared to Denali lights and Philips Diamond Vision H7 Halogen HID Bulbs which I have installed right now. Thank you for the offer!

All good and whatever works for your needs is the best solution.

Cheers - Mike

 

[Panzermann]

If old matey in the video had actually read his owners manual, he’d realise:

1. There’s no need to remove the whole headlight shell - just remove the surround, remove the RH mounting bolt, and loosen the hinge bolt on the left. The assembly then swings out for access, requiring no realignment after swinging back.
2. There’s no need to remove the two screws that hold each bulb bracket - simply rotate the bracket to release it.

Also, when replacing screws that thread into plastic, with light pressure turn the screw backwards until it drops into the existing thread - otherwise you risk cutting a new thread and subsequently stripping it.

 

[mikeS]

Correct @Panzermann - I twigged when I notice the right-hand side (facing the bike) brass threaded sleeve housed in plastic. However, I found removing the whole headlight assembly was the best because my aftermarket windscreen bottom edge was making things awkward to swing put the headlight.

BTW - I didn't tighten the right-hand side headlight bolt to 19nm because I thought I would strip the captive brass threaded sleeve.

Very good point you raise PZ.


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[mikeS]

You've got me thinking @Panzermann - I can't seem to find in my manual the torque values for the two headlight bolts.

I did find in the bikes Rider’s Manual - Right-hand side headlight bolt (non-pivot side) 19nm torque setting and I did set it to that but can't find the correct torque setting for the other headlight bolt. I've got that set by feel.
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[mikeS]

I didn't follow the old mate in the video his distance formula to adjust the height (I think he had 16 feet distance). I found another video on YouTube - distance from the headlight centre of the globe to a wall - 3.85 meters. I cheated and used my Honda cb650 as a reference that's almost the same floor-to-globe height as my LC. From the garage floor to the centre of the globe 850mm. Then sitting on the bike, the headlight on, I got my wife to tilt the headlight up to an 850mm reference point on the wall and then adjusted it down 20mm. Purely a bush mechanic’s method but it seems the right beam height and I haven't received any high beam flashes. Also, what helps with the Navar 150 plus globes being much brighter than OEM, on the warmer brightness side and not being on the blueish bright-white they don't dazzle oncoming traffic. I assume that’s a factor in them receiving ADR approval but that's only my assumption.


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[Panzermann]

I tighten both by feel, @mikeS. On such a fixing, torque isn’t critical - unless you overt-ighten it, of course. It’s not like a fork leg clamp, for example, or axle clamp.

 

[daniel]

Question about the canbus error "exterminator"... Is it necessary for security/safety/overhead or only to eliminate the error?

I currently have the r1250r and get the canbus bulb error, but can quit it.

 

[Panzermann]

@daniel - see response to your duplicate question here:

LED headlight lamps installed

EDIT on 10/18/23 - - - I've discovered that the resistors I used in this thread were the incorrect size. They were intended for use on turn signals, which are used intermittently. The correct size resistor is 50 watts at 6ohms for headlight LED lamps. I apologize if this causes anybody any...

www.r1200rforum.com