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"As for the dispersal pattern, that's dictated by the shape of the reflector, to the best of my knowledge, so a brighter bulb shouldn't adversely affect the spread of light. " That is true....

But having the light 'source' (the lamp) coming from a different angle or angles by using flat sided LEDs (vs. the cylindrical lamp shape of a halogen) will effect the dispersal. I'm pretty sure this was proved in my project. The dispersal was worse off using LEDs.
That makes sense, and I hadn’t considered that…. As I say, visually it seems a lot brighter but I’ll have to wait till the Spring to see the final result.
 
Yeah, as I mentioned before, they will appear brighter, but throwing the light all over the place. That doesn't make them brighter where you want them to;). And that has always been the problem with conversions from one type of bulb, to another. With halogens to HIDs, although similarly looking, the problem was the light source extended beyond the halogens (they were longer), and that also threw the light pattern way off. Headlamp design is an extremely precise affair, in order to throw the light exactly where it needs to be, and nothing above a mandated cut-off line. And that's almost impossible to achieve if you change bulb types.

At any rate, I don't expect any LED bulb to perform good enough to replace a stock H7 bulb, but you never know. However, those bulbs that I'm going to link below, I have no doubt they'd fit properly, and probably not throw any codes (since they claim they don't). BUT, the simple fact they weren't specifically tested and manufactured with a particular orientation, and you're supposed to d*ck with them by rotating them, I wouldn't even bother with those either. But if somebody does, I'd be open to what they have to say :). And yes, I'd point the LEDs sideways, like all others. But my question is if they'd stay there, since they can rotate.

 
I believe you. I just looked at the photo on the first post, and the bottom (low beam) bulb is not that deep. I was remembering the top one (high beam), which was pretty deep, and had a hard time with the tiny screw. But yeah, the other one seems to be really close to the cap indeed. Thank you for pointing that out. So not an option either. There's really nothing left to consider, is it?
 
a guy from R1250r bought an aftermarket LED headlight from eBay. I’m waiting to see what he comes back with. LED light specs say it is compatible with R1200r and r1250r specifically.
 
I realized that although I didn’t take photos of the nano LED’s, I could at least show you the relative size of both that were sent me by showing the boxes they came in.

At the top is the box for the first ones (they told me to keep them rather than paying for me to return them…) and at the bottom is the package for the nanos:
Image


The size difference is more noticeable when you look at the boxes from the side:

Image


So if anyone needs H7 replacement LED’s for an application other than for an R, make me an offer…

😎
 
Oh man; the first one is HUUUUUUGE. Where the hell would that one fit? The other looks pretty big too, and would only fit on the (upper) high beam, if at all. The problem with LEDs is they can get pretty hot, but when you need to add even more resistance to avoid a dash warning, and it's in a sealed enclosure, doesn't sound like a great idea. The heat is designed to be handled by the exposed chamber (where the bulb is), not on the inside of the housing, which is where LEDs bring the heat to. I'm just going to leave the DiamondVision bulbs in place. I rarely ride at night, so I don't really need any auxiliary or better lighting. And the DVs now have pretty much the color of LEDs, so I'm happy with that. Will have to replace them more often, but not a big deal, since they're not that expensive. And it'll only be the low beam.
 
Here's a photo of the box, with a H7 bulb next to it for comparison:
H7 LED.jpeg


When viewed side-by--side, the disparity in size is even more obvious...
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
As the OP of this thread, I have given up on LED bulbs for the R1250R.
I did put in the Diamond Vision bulbs and use my Clearwater Ericas for conspicuity and night time driving.
I had a great experience with a Cyclops LED replacement in my 2012 GS and I know that a properly engineered LED can be a huge improvement.
I think the design of the R headlight is just too compact for a no fault, plug and play LED replacement bulb.
 
Thank you for your answers all, it's very enlightening.

That's true that the dispersal pattern of the 1250R is good to light on the side but doesn't light very far when using the passing beam.

So instead of trying to mount unsuccessfully leds on the headlight, I think I will mount the additional led lights on the sides.
For those of you who have them, do they light on a greater distance (and without blinding incoming traffic) than the oem headlight ?
 
All I can tell you is if you want them to light further than the headlight on high beam, they'd absolutely have to blind oncoming traffic if you have them on. So you have to think first if you're willing to be turning them on and off every time you have a car ahead, basically like secondary high-beams. If you're willing to do that, then I'm sure there are lights that will do what you want, but the only question is how much additional light you want, which will determine the size and power of the lamps. Good luck.
 
Thank you for your answers all, it's very enlightening.

That's true that the dispersal pattern of the 1250R is good to light on the side but doesn't light very far when using the passing beam.

So instead of trying to mount unsuccessfully leds on the headlight, I think I will mount the additional led lights on the sides.
For those of you who have them, do they light on a greater distance (and without blinding incoming traffic) than the oem headlight ?
Denali DR1, version 1.0 (discontinued), but light pattern is almost the same as the newer version 2.0. I’ve also installed lenses that allow for wider light beam dispersion, so that light doesn’t blind oncoming traffic as much. Depending on your preference/budget, you might want to look into other Denali/Clearwater/etc. options, as DR 1 are fairly large. I would not recommend eBay/cheap knock-off And no-name LEDs for use on public roads, where there is oncoming traffic. Regardless of how good or how many reviews these lights have.

I’ve ridden with these lights for several years now, and had very few motorist flash me from oncoming lane.

Here Is my install:

Also, search this forum for inspiration: there is a lot of different mounting positions, some of which are not necessarily self-evident, but can be very effective.
 
So you have to think first if you're willing to be turning them on and off every time you have a car ahead, basically like secondary high-beams. If you're willing to do that, then I'm sure there are lights that will do what you want, but the only question is how much additional light you want, which will determine the size and power of the lamps. Good luck.
I have the bright/high/driving setting of my aux lights tied directly to the high beam. Yellow fog/driving lights set to turn on with the headlights after the bike starts. The aux lights I have use an internal relay/switch, so you power one line all the time for yellow/low angled wide beam, and the other for white/high angle spot beam. The internal relay automatically switches off the yellow LEDs when the other line is powered.
 
That sounds like the way to go for the OP then, since he wants more high-beam range, which would always blind oncoming traffic (no way around that). Unfortunately, sounds like you have to mess with the factory wiring, which would be a deal-breaker for me, but hopefully not for him :). At least you have a viable option for the OP... IF he has the skill and/or budget for that system, and installation.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
All I can tell you is if you want them to light further than the headlight on high beam, they'd absolutely have to blind oncoming traffic if you have them on. So you have to think first if you're willing to be turning them on and off every time you have a car ahead, basically like secondary high-beams. If you're willing to do that, then I'm sure there are lights that will do what you want, but the only question is how much additional light you want, which will determine the size and power of the lamps. Good luck.
If you have DIMMABLE aux lights, you just drive with them all the time during the day. (on low beam)
At night when you use high beam, the aux lights come on full power and turn night into day.
So, you get the additional benefit of much better conspicuity during the day and brilliant visibility at night when you choose to.
 
Don't those still blind oncoming traffic? Even my puny bicycle light (by comparison) can blind oncoming traffic if aimed like a high-beam. But if it works, sounds like another viable option.
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
Don't those still blind oncoming traffic? Even my puny bicycle light (by comparison) can blind oncoming traffic if aimed like a high-beam. But if it works, sounds like another viable option.
They absolutely do not blind oncoming traffic when dimmed. In fact they are even better following my riding buddies than stock high beams on, aux off. The lights do not have a cutoff pattern like normal headlights or fog lights.
They are more like spot or flood, depending on brand and choice.
I think they are the most important safety item for conspicuity, especially compared to an extra loud horn.
I can't tell you how many times I have prevented some car from turning left in front of me, or pulling out in front of me, just by flipping on my high beams (with the aux coming on full power) and leaving them on until the other driver sees me. You can tell when they do as they hit the brakes pretty forcibly.
I live out in the Lehigh Valley and at night in the countryside, I see all kinds of wildlife, deer, fox, raccoons, that I'd miss with the stock lights. I think you owe it to yourself to check them out. Pretty F'n amazing.
I actually put on removable orange filters for daytime riding, super conspicuous for oncoming traffic.
This shot on track is taken at low level 2 ft off the ground. (Lights look extra bright, as does low beam)

Image
 
They absolutely do not blind oncoming traffic when dimmed.
That's good to know. I never ride at night, and always ride pretty defensively, so no need for extra lights for me :). Hey, just a friendly suggestion: Get used to riding on the balls of your feet, brother. At least on the track. If your toes touch the tarmac, it wouldn't be pretty. I always ride on the balls of my feet since my first track camp (a long time ago), as well as covering brake and clutch. That way you're ready for anything at any time :). And gives you better control of the bike too. Take care.
 
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